Turbo Keeps Boosting?

[chrissso]

Sounds like boost creep.

So as I said earlier, there a whole lot of conjecture about what causes it.

I had it, thought it was the wastegate flap hitting the bell mouth dump, but wasn't it.

Did a lot of searching and found a few people with it, but no real answers, just suggestions like bad boost controller etc.

Then one day, A guy on here had it and he got a PFC and had it tuned, and his boost creep dissapeared. It was figured that the rich and retard that you get from an untuned stock ECU with more boost and some basic mods causes excess pressure in the mainfold due to Exhaust gas still burning as it exits the cylinder. Rich and retard does that, kinda like antilag tuning does the same thing. Not everyone seems to get boost creep either.

SO anyway, other people are getting boost creep for other reason as as well, but this was more to do with bigger turbo and bigger highmount mainfolds, different story.

I had mine tuned using a SAFC equivalent and it fixed the problem somewhat.

That is all...

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

Sounds like boost creep.

So as I said earlier, there a whole lot of conjecture about what causes it.

I had it, thought it was the wastegate flap hitting the bell mouth dump, but wasn't it.

Did a lot of searching and found a few people with it, but no real answers, just suggestions like bad boost controller etc.

Then one day, A guy on here had it and he got a PFC and had it tuned, and his boost creep dissapeared. It was figured that the rich and retard that you get from an untuned stock ECU with more boost and some basic mods causes excess pressure in the mainfold due to Exhaust gas still burning as it exits the cylinder. Rich and retard does that, kinda like antilag tuning does the same thing. Not everyone seems to get boost creep either.

SO anyway, other people are getting boost creep for other reason as as well, but this was more to do with bigger turbo and bigger highmount mainfolds, different story.

I had mine tuned using a SAFC equivalent and it fixed the problem somewhat.

That is all...

ok when you say that it sounds very plausable because when I turn the boost down it seems to run richer, I cant ell because the back of my car gets blacker, and when I turn it up it gets less black. Also, when I turn it down, the point where it pauses at 12 and then continues to move toward 14 pound seems to happen at a high rpm, and when i turn the boost up, it will move past 12 pound at a early/lower rpm. To me the way to solve this problem is to have it tuned to 10 pound so this retard/rich ecu problem dosent happen, or will it happen to this to? will it then reach 10 pound and then creep to 12 pound and run rough, the same what its doing now but with 10-12p instead of 12-14?

[James_03]

You have a stock ECU, so your not going to be able to change the factory map unless you get it chipped OR go aftermarket.

But before you actually go down the path of doing this, the solution maybe relatively simple. You still haven't checked the basics, which people have told you to do. If you don't know how to test the actuator then take it somewhere that does.

I had creep on my GTR for quite some time, went straight back onto stock actuators again which ran fine = bad controller.

I am not saying that it is definately the controller or actuators, maybe still something to do with the tune. But you really need to eliminate the actuator & controller as first point of call then move from there.

Check all vac lines are in good cond too.

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

IMHO get an r32 gtst actuator (10psi) and ditch the controller altogether. untill you get some management

do what GT said tho, and i bet you'll find that 3rd is the same.

from my old old setup with a turbosmart MBC, this happens often with cheap mbc's, i had a pfc, so the R & R problem wasn't there, but i just dealt with it and let it creep, 1 bar on a stock turbo wont blow your motor, just your turbo. most i ever saw was 16psi, ran like this form12 months until i upgraded things

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

IMHO get an r32 gtst actuator (10psi) and ditch the controller altogether. untill you get some management

do what GT said tho, and i bet you'll find that 3rd is the same.

from my old old setup with a turbosmart MBC, this happens often with cheap mbc's, i had a pfc, so the R & R problem wasn't there, but i just dealt with it and let it creep, 1 bar on a stock turbo wont blow your motor, just your turbo. most i ever saw was 16psi, ran like this form12 months until i upgraded things

yes i will try what everyone has suggested, i will look at changing the controller, the controller i have right now is a turboXS i think, i dont know if there any good or not, i dont think the actuator is the problem as i changed the turbo and actuator and the same thing is happening, unless my luck is that bad that both actuators were buggered.

if i were to put on a 10p r32 actuator can i tune the car to 12 pound still?

also i wouldnt mind it creeping if the weird rough feeling wasnt there from 12-14+ psi...

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

my point was more that by sticking to 10psi you WONT get R&R ever

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

my point was more that by sticking to 10psi you WONT get R&R ever

lol im seriously thinking about lowering it!

then i dont have to touch anything yee boi

[chrissso]

A tuner told me that 12 is the limit for these ceramic turbines, so adjust the controller to 10 so it will only creep to 12. Your choice of course.

Then, save up and get a new computer (ECU) and get it tuned. You'll have no smoke or black bumper and more power everywhere.

the only other thing I had to do was get a fuel pump as mine wasn't pumping enough. Do it all together to save having to retune etc.

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

A tuner told me that 12 is the limit for these ceramic turbines, so adjust the controller to 10 so it will only creep to 12. Your choice of course.

Then, save up and get a new computer (ECU) and get it tuned. You'll have no smoke or black bumper and more power everywhere.

the only other thing I had to do was get a fuel pump as mine wasn't pumping enough. Do it all together to save having to retune etc.

as much as i would love a new ecu i dont want to go that path as they are not legal, im not saying my car is legal lol but i dont want it getting worse, i think i might get it tuned to 12 if i cant find a easy fix.

also, can someone answer me a question, is the rough feeling when its creeping it running lean?

[Guilt-Toy]

stop asking stupid questions. go and do the test I asked for and report back with the results. instead of playing mr internet car mechanic to try and work out that you don't know what you are doing.

do the test. then report back. rev it out to at least 5000rpm and tell us what boost it goes to.

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

stop asking stupid questions. go and do the test I asked for and report back with the results. instead of playing mr internet car mechanic to try and work out that you don't know what you are doing.

do the test. then report back. rev it out to at least 5000rpm and tell us what boost it goes to.

wow ok... well im at work so i cant, and i thought id cover everything in the time im at my desk, and im asking questions, not "playing mr internet mechanic"

[Guilt-Toy]

wow ok... well im at work so i cant, and i thought id cover everything in the time im at my desk, and im asking questions, not "playing mr internet mechanic"

well here is a little hint, a engine that is running lean will have more power then one running too rich.

sounds to me your car is going into what we call R&R mode. rich & retard. but first you need to do this test before we can move on any further. keep your eye on the boost gauge or get someone else to drive while you look at it. does it go over 12psi at all ? does it go up to 15 ? hold it and only back of if it goes over 15 16psi (the turbo won't shit itself if you do this, its only if you constantly run it at higher boost pressures)

[STYLN]

well here is a little hint, a engine that is running lean will have more power then one running too rich.

sounds to me your car is going into what we call R&R mode. rich & retard. but first you need to do this test before we can move on any further. keep your eye on the boost gauge or get someone else to drive while you look at it. does it go over 12psi at all ? does it go up to 15 ? hold it and only back of if it goes over 15 16psi (the turbo won't shit itself if you do this, its only if you constantly run it at higher boost pressures)

clutch - as direct as Guilt Toy was i assure you he knows his shit. Do his test and he'll give you an answer thats straight, not a maybe, a hear say or this happened to me answer. Punch it in third and report back what happens up top of the rev range.

[Adriano]

When you say it is tuned, what is there to tune, surely not the boost controller

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

Ok i took it for a spin tonight and i stand corrected, it does the same thing in third gear, wat next guilt toy? Lol

[Guilt-Toy]

Ok i took it for a spin tonight and i stand corrected, it does the same thing in third gear, wat next guilt toy? Lol

what did it do in third gear? explain to me the rpm / boost creep symptoms please.

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

It did the same as the other gears, gets to around 4.5, 5k rpm and starts to go past the 12 mark, it got to 14 before i pulled away. Sounded the same felt the same roughness

[James_03]

the controller i have right now is a turboXS i think

Seriously, drop it back onto the actuator. I had a feeling it would still do it.

I know everyone always jumps straight to controller in these scenarios, but it's a shitty brand and it has all the symptoms.

Edited May 22, 2009 by James_03

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

i will have to get it retuned if i put it straight to the actuator wont i?

[Guilt-Toy]

i will have to get it retuned if i put it straight to the actuator wont i?

No.

take the boost controller out. put it back on actuator. and re-test. report back results please.