Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as the topic says, i have a mint condition r34 east bear seat for sale, awsome seat. Price is $750 for the seat.

also have a practicly brand new bride super seat rail to suit r32/33. price is $200

if you buy both il do the pair together for $850. sms or ring me on 0418772525. will put pics up later on today!

cheers

  • 2 weeks later...

im pretty lazy so im just gona use the photos off the post that i bought the seats from. probly best to send me an sms if ya keen on the seat. im not on the net much! by the way the seats are spotless the rings are just on the camera lens

untitled1.jpg

untitled.jpg

cheers

Edited by 4slydn
ill offer 500 for the seat as u can get them brand new form nengun for 690

i dont need the rail

pm me if u accept my offer

:):ermm: - yeah 600 for the seat 900 to have it delivered (from nengun) so he's already doing you a deal

where are you located? I love the look of this seat...just wondering what it's like size-wize as I'm a pretty big guy (2m tall and a bit on the heavy side) The price of the rails is pretty disgusting tho ..$500 delivered from Nengun, wtf..

Edited by Delta Force

yeah nengun tend to sting you pretty hard on delivery. im located in windsor. western sydney. seat is pretty big but still pretty low. i recon its heeps comfy and a mate of mine uses one in his track car so they give enough support but its probly all to do with what your comfortable with. anyones welcome to sit in it. its not in a car but so you would have to test it on the ground or something!

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky pick up Best to find these things before something horrible happened to the yoke flange thingies I would hate to think what would happen if it dropped the tailshaft  Hopefully the holes are not flogged out in the yokes and it was just the bolts that got munted  As for the hand brake.....ouch, look like the disc got rather hot, and I assume smokey, I recall when I had a front caliper seize on the Commodore, there was lots of smoke and the disc was glowing cherry red when I was able to eventually stop and have a look, and stopping a big heavy car, going down a big hill with some rather high RPM down shifts and some hand brake action is something that makes you think hard about life
    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that one side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
    • Don't assume the AC relay signal from the ECU is +, some models including Stagea use an earth trigger.
×
×
  • Create New...