Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all Selling my car to build a new house.

Its a R34 GT T four door in good condition

Manual

83200 kms

18/oct Rego

I am the first Australian owner and got the timing belt and water pump done when I first got it.

AVS Model 7 mags 17x8 and 17x9 with near new federals all round

HKS Silent hi power cat back exhaust

Boost T running stock boost just to get rid of the 2 stage factory boost.

GTR R33 Series 3 seats with modded rails to suit

JVC head unit that can play DVDs if fitted with screen.

Factory xenon lights

Always serviced with Motul oil at 5000 kms intervals

Lowered RSR springs

Lovely car to drive and dont want to get rid of it but need the money to fund new house.

Price $17 800

Phone 0413 389 021

ps will sell cheeper with stock seats.

and also trade for cheeper commador or falcon

post-16196-1242972862_thumb.jpg

post-16196-1242972875_thumb.jpg

post-16196-1242972883_thumb.jpg

post-16196-1242972894_thumb.jpg

post-16196-1242972902_thumb.jpg

post-16196-1242972911_thumb.jpg

post-16196-1242972919_thumb.jpg

post-16196-1242972931_thumb.jpg

post-16196-1242972937_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271272-nissan-skyline-r34-gtt-manual-sedan/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Atmospheric vent requires something that doesn't use a MAF for load. You would need a standalone ECU for that.
    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
    • Yep that's pretty much what I want to see. Racecars that look and sound like the Group A but with newer tech underneath to make them faster and safer. I'm sure there's enough VK-to-VN commodore, E30 BMWs and Foxbody mustangs shells around to make up a decent number of cars with hopefully a couple of sierras, rx7 and R31s in there too. 
    • Contact Jessestreeter.com/Skevas Racing/JustJap for a new r34 rb gearbox or go a cd00# conversion. No point playing with unknown condition gearboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...