Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I know a couple of you guys from silnsw forums.... zei, andy

Since writting my bike off the other day, due to a nice indian pulling out infront of me whilst doing 70 km/h. His insurance company has seen fit to pay me out... Having always liked the stagea im now dead certain my next car is going to be an M35. I have read up a bit on here about members cars and stuff and before i start going and checking some out or even thinking about importing one there is still a few questions....

Since the box is auto with sports shift is there any viable manual donar? (R34 since it is a neo as well but dont know how it would/would not go since the AWD)

and is there any other common faults rust points etc to keep an eye out for when checking one out?

any other info you guys could give me would be much appreciated....

Cheers, Teren

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271304-thinking-of-a-nissan-volvo/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Glad your in one piece after that accident.

The only possible donar gear box is the the 350z or V35 but it has not been done on the M35 so no one knows for sure if it will work and how much is involved.

The M35 motor is a VQ motor, not the NEO so R34 is unlilkley to fit.

There have been no mafor comments about rust on the car from any one posting.

Turbo seems to be the weakest point of the motor but that just seems to be an excuse to hiflow it anyway. The exhaust can be restrictive in complience form so is recomended to change to take the pressure off the turbo.

The ARX is known to have softer suspension and has been known to have a short life before the shocks give up.

Other than that they seem to be a reliable car.

Cheers

Andy

Thanks andy,

yeah one piece.... bruised kidneys and spleen, pissed blood for a day, thought i had internal bleeding... few bruises and scratches, but all good. So i thought maybe it is time to surround myself with a metal cage again....

good info, like always...

Cheers, T

ophh nice! and yeah im glad to hear youre ok too

who are you on snsw?? and andy is on snsw too? lol

anyway, so far i havent seen or heard anyone complain of rust in an M35 and depending on how tall you are, and how you sit in the car, watch out for sunroof models. they may not suit you

other than that they are an awesome car. im 110% happy i have one. its got poke when i need it, and its comfortable when doing so :D

zei remember andy coz he always ends his postes with

cheers

Andy

and remember (all be it a long time ago) he had a stag (hey i could be wrong such a long time now)

Havnt posted on snsw for quiet a while, halfway through last year? still the same name on there "tangents" had a pewter s15.

remember when you were selling your s15 to get the stag... you got someone to advertise it on the intranet at the RAAF base...

trying to find a black or white 250trx four or a black arx and of course with sunroofs, i'm 6'2" but who cares :D torn between the 2 models... like the leather and the pop up tv screen on the arx but like the ride hieght and non puffed out guards of the trx.... unless i can find the center console of an arx somewhere and jam it into the trx???

Edited by Tangents
zei remember andy coz he always ends his postes with

cheers

Andy

and remember (all be it a long time ago) he had a stag (hey i could be wrong such a long time now)

Havnt posted on snsw for quiet a while, halfway through last year? still the same name on there "tangents" had a pewter s15.

remember when you were selling your s15 to get the stag... you got someone to advertise it on the intranet at the RAAF base...

trying to find a black or white 250trx four or a black arx and of course with sunroofs, i'm 6'2" but who cares :( torn between the 2 models... like the leather and the pop up tv screen on the arx but like the ride hieght and non puffed out guards of the trx.... unless i can find the center console of an arx somewhere and jam it into the trx???

If you are 6'2, sit in a car with sunroofs first.

I'm way less that 6' and my hair touches the roof.

Haven't heard of a TRX. RX? The ARX has all of the features and then some more, but I changed my suspension as soon as I got it. (See sydneykid posts on this topic)

Ride height can be an issue with such a long car scraping on ramps and speed humps. I had mine lowered and couldn't use it as a daily driver, so raised it again.

If you are 6'2, sit in a car with sunroofs first.

I'm way less that 6' and my hair touches the roof.

Haven't heard of a TRX. RX? The ARX has all of the features and then some more, but I changed my suspension as soon as I got it. (See sydneykid posts on this topic)

Ride height can be an issue with such a long car scraping on ramps and speed humps. I had mine lowered and couldn't use it as a daily driver, so raised it again.

Hey crisis,

Was going to head out to a few that are on lots and have a better look for things like sunroof space etc, model in ref to trx was 250t rx four.

How low did you drop the arx before it became non carpark compliant?

yeah there is no trx. its either an RX, RS, ARX or AXIS.

mine is stock height with the aero kit, and mine sometimes scrapes on ramps and driveways. nothing major, but mostly on some of those big ass speed humps in my area

I head that some of the people who put on the Bilstein kit had some problems with ride height.

I have it on my ARX with no problems. My kit was supplied with the blue springs that are standard with the Bilstein kit. I think most of the pople who have had a problem had a different colored spring. Some are Ebich springs.

Mine will scrap over some crests of ramps only when I have 5 people on board.

Pedders do a stiffer spring for the ARX.

Cheers

Andy

I'm running a RS with Nismo S-Tune Suspension, Aero Body Kit & standard 17" wheels.

It doesn't lower it much but you have to watch angles on driveway entries etc.

Speed humps are need really an issue, unless they are giant in which case the front will scrap.

Biggest problem is steep driveways or long uphill climbs that level off abruptly.

Oh and you have to watch parking seperators as the front only clears small one's not the big concrete ones :(

Any other questions just ask, if you are in the Blacktown region you can come have a look if you like.

Pedders do a stiffer spring for the ARX.

Cheers

Andy

Andy, do you have a contact at Pedders?

I've been speaking with Danny at Pedders in Penrith, good guy, tried quite hard to help. Basically told me that the only thing he could dig up (within all the pedders franchises) was a fellow with a white m35 (not AR-X) had some springs matched from another model of car (have seen pics, VERY low) and that if I didn't want to go that low, they could lower and re-temper my std springs for around $600. That way I could have the exact height I wanted.

No solution on shocks, so basically $600 for soft, low springs and my std soggy shocks. Not really what I'm after.

Apparently, when a franchisee does work on an unusual car, they submit the specs of the parts they used, to Pedders r&d, and they list this info on their database, for future reference. The lack of info suggests that either, only one franchise has worked on an m35, or, If they have modified one, they didn't submit anything to r&d.

I've tried another suspension specialist in my area, but unless you speak to the owner (which I haven't been able) and don't own a commodore, (or something easy) the guys aren't prepared to look outside the box to find a solution.

At this point, it's looking like I'll have to import japanese components (Tein or Nismo look good at the moment) myself to do an upgrade, but I'd like some feed back from anyone who has done suspension RECENTLY, what they're using, where they got it, performance etc. I had my heart set on Bilsteins but as you explained Andy, they were a limited run item, so, no go there. I can't even get a part no for a sensible height lowered spring...

Sorry to drag this off topic.

Edited by Daleo

Im 6ft 8" tall, 201cm - had a Stagea for 4 years now, twin sunroof auto awd series-1

extended the seat rail length by 1inch, thats been fine for 4yrs

just now awaiting a custom seat rail for a racey-type adjustable seat and that should give me another inch, sweet.

headroom has been an issue on speedbumps a couple of times, this new seat rail & seat will be lower.

Im 6ft 8" tall, 201cm - had a Stagea for 4 years now, twin sunroof auto awd series-1

extended the seat rail length by 1inch, thats been fine for 4yrs

just now awaiting a custom seat rail for a racey-type adjustable seat and that should give me another inch, sweet.

headroom has been an issue on speedbumps a couple of times, this new seat rail & seat will be lower.

So how is life at the top of a bean stalk? j/k how did you extend the seat rails?

So how is life at the top of a bean stalk? j/k how did you extend the seat rails?

dude, 12 knee surgeries and now no kneecaps, and no replacements either. nothingness.

grrr, makes it hard sometimes, lol like installing a turbo, etc

with the seat rails, drilled out a few rounded 'stoppers', took the slotted rail length out, and simply cut 4 extra holes both sides, refit, weld new stoppers, and it gave roughly and inch

but enough to make it comfy, plus took out the foot pedal stopper plastic support bits etc.

Hey crisis,

Was going to head out to a few that are on lots and have a better look for things like sunroof space etc, model in ref to trx was 250t rx four.

How low did you drop the arx before it became non carpark compliant?

As suggested in another post, I put in the "bilstein" kit - shocks and springs. I'ld say 1.5" lower

North Shore prestige did the job. The blue springs

They still have my "Bilstein" springs over there on consignment.

The new ones are yellow.

Back to the sunroofs - check the m35 vs the older models - Tanfles has an earlier model - they may be different?????

Andy, do you have a contact at Pedders?

I've been speaking with Danny at Pedders in Penrith, good guy, tried quite hard to help. Basically told me that the only thing he could dig up (within all the pedders franchises) was a fellow with a white m35 (not AR-X) had some springs matched from another model of car (have seen pics, VERY low) and that if I didn't want to go that low, they could lower and re-temper my std springs for around $600. That way I could have the exact height I wanted.

No solution on shocks, so basically $600 for soft, low springs and my std soggy shocks. Not really what I'm after.

Apparently, when a franchisee does work on an unusual car, they submit the specs of the parts they used, to Pedders r&d, and they list this info on their database, for future reference. The lack of info suggests that either, only one franchise has worked on an m35, or, If they have modified one, they didn't submit anything to r&d.

I've tried another suspension specialist in my area, but unless you speak to the owner (which I haven't been able) and don't own a commodore, (or something easy) the guys aren't prepared to look outside the box to find a solution.

At this point, it's looking like I'll have to import japanese components (Tein or Nismo look good at the moment) myself to do an upgrade, but I'd like some feed back from anyone who has done suspension RECENTLY, what they're using, where they got it, performance etc. I had my heart set on Bilsteins but as you explained Andy, they were a limited run item, so, no go there. I can't even get a part no for a sensible height lowered spring...

Sorry to drag this off topic.

As mentioned in my other post - North Shore Prestige has my blue "Bilstein" springs. Too low for me, but if you really want the look - ring Ben

m

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...