Holset Hx35w Installation In Standard Low Mount Position

[Cjmartz2k]

Sorry for the piss poor quality. I need to do this at night with somebody else helping, but I didn't want to delay any longer. Also, all these numbers seem a couple hundred rpm laggier to me than normal. I think maybe it's because we are still in close proximity to Typhoon Morakat and the altimeter (air pressure) is REALLY low--like 29.13 kinda low. Enough excuses......

Edited August 8, 2009 by Cjmartz2k

[CEF11E]

just pulled this off my phone. REALLY SHITTY VID. but atleast you can hear the gate. it was done on low throttle so pay no attention to spool. cheers!

[Cjmartz2k]

Sounds pretty mean Now go fill up your gas tank You need to get some 3rd and 4th gear spooling vids to show people, and get a passenger to film so your not retarded like me trying to drive and film at the same time

[CEF11E]

Its going to be a while till that is done.

The car suffered a catastrophic failure on the weekend,

Imagine what would happen if your 1/2 shaft separated from your drive shaft at 100kmph.

at this stage it looks like I need every mechanical part under the rear end. it was an expensive weekend and I didn't even get pissed...

[Lithium]

Sounds pretty mean Now go fill up your gas tank You need to get some 3rd and 4th gear spooling vids to show people, and get a passenger to film so your not retarded like me trying to drive and film at the same time

Looked like the last part of the clip was filmed in 3rd?

[CEF11E]

just looked at it and it was in 4th 80kmph roll on from 3000rpm.

in real world it spools the turbo at about 2500 and full boost by 3200 in 3rd. 4th th ect...

I have discovered what had happened with my rear end.

the rear cradle might have a minor twist in it but it was enough to throw the diff out of alignment by a degree or two. massive torque and a 2 way with semis are a good way to start breaking things.

I am going to fix it and then take the semis off and replace them with normal street tyres.

all 6 bolts were sheared in 1/2 and the cv came off the 1/2 shaft.

the cradle might be ok. I will have to take it off and measure its dimensions and see whats buggered. it could have just been the bolts shook loose and all gave way under acceleration.

anyways after I fix it I might end up selling it.

at the moment I have 2 skylines, 3 motorbikes, 4 bicycles and a trailer in my garage. to much work!!!

[zebra]

Its going to be a while till that is done.

The car suffered a catastrophic failure on the weekend,

Imagine what would happen if your 1/2 shaft separated from your drive shaft at 100kmph.

at this stage it looks like I need every mechanical part under the rear end. it was an expensive weekend and I didn't even get pissed...

Thats not cool, what happened? bolts snap?

[Cjmartz2k]

Imagine what would happen if your 1/2 shaft separated from your drive shaft at 100kmph.

Don't need to imagine. I've done it on 3 seperate occasions Scary as fark, I'll tell you that much. Sucks if you screwed some other bits up in the process. I finally installed a GTR rear diff/axles/hubs and haven't had a problem since. Maybe you should try hunting those parts down and upgrade/fix at the same time

[CEF11E]

yep! that is what i am thinking.

gtr whole rear end if possible.

[CEF11E]

I have got all the bits to replace my rear end

New R32 non HICAS cradle

GTR drive shafts

Replacement diff. I have decided to use a 4.1:1 ratio. mainly to reduce the revs at highway speed and there is plenty of torque to pull the car around with the longer ratios. Acceleration may be reduced a bit but more likely I will just have traction for a change!

[CEF11E]

Finally got around to sticking it back on the dyno.

its making STUPID amounts of torque. as you can see the boost tapers off very quickly due to controll issues but its probably for the best as there is no traction anywhere above 4100rpm.

I now have 4:1:1 diff gears in so the ramp rate is slightly wrong. you need to adjust the figures bit. bacically it hits full boost at 4000rpm on the road anda bit more on the dyno. at 4000rpm in 4th with my tyres I am doing 106kmph

the AFR's are rich but its like that to keep the stock bottom end happy.

If the boost was 19psi all the way to redline it would do 300 on its ass. but trust be it does not need another 20rwkw. as it is it makes MORE power all the way to redline.

Interestingly enough, there was an R34 rb30det with a 3540 at the dyno today making 300rwkw and the power curve was IDENTICAL to mine but it was running more boost and more timing and cost $25000 more to build

there's your proof holset HX35 potential users. they will make the power with decent spool...

[Zurlox]

Good job CEF11E, the HX35 looks the goods!

coincidentally i have just ordered my HX35 for my RB25/30 build!

great information in here, i will be following your thread carefully

Top job again mate.

[CEF11E]

Nice one mate!

well it looks like you have bought the perfect turbo for the job.

I was thinking lastnight about the tune, and why is it that your 'sensible' side tells you to leave it where it is while it is on the dyno and as soon as you get home your 'testicle powered' side tells you you should have pushed it harder...

I am thinking about putting it back on the rollers and

a. sorting out boost control and running 20psi

b. leaning out the mixtures to 11.8:1

There are quite a few guys running 24psi on this turbo and making rediculous power. and as many have said they start making REAL power around the 22psi mark.

Zurlox,

what sort of power are you aiming at? and will your engine have forged bits?

cheers!

[Zurlox]

CEF11E,

yeah it will be a complete engine rebuild all forged internals aiming for about 350rwkw in my R32 gtst...should be fun !

i want to try and build it up with as much headroom as possible so ill be safe to run 350kw on ~20psi

[CEF11E]

Excellent! the turbo should do exactly what you are after.

Looks like I will put it back on the dyno tonight and push it some more!

keep reading for an update tonight.

cheers:)

[CEF11E]

UPDATE:

I took the car to DMD Tuning at packenham this afternoon as I wanted to verify the power figure and tidy up the boost control.

First at the same boost level run netted 265rwkw. 15 down on the RE customs dyno.

I sorted oun the boost issue but it still trails off.

After a few runs playing around with boost settings it made 310rwkw and proceeded to climb out of the dyno we strapped it down harder and also tired less tension and different ramp rates but nothing helped. out of safety I decided to call it quits. I am not sure if it would have made more than 310rwkw at that boost level. and I was not keen to up the boost as the car was already trying t get the FU%$ off the dyno.

It's now hitting full boost of 19psi at 3800rpm and tapering off to 17psi but holds 19 untill 5500.

So I am going to leave it at 310rwkw.

the interesting part was that this dyno reads atleast 15rwkw LESS than the last dyno.

The car is great to drive it comes on smooth and fast and pulls in every gear regardless of rpm. fantastic turbo and unbeatable budget engine/turbo configuration. 350rwkw would be done EASILY with this turbo and probably 400rwkw. the DSM guys in the states are pushing them this hard.

[EDIT] no dyno sheet. for the 310rwkw the file was wiped before we printed it out [EDIT]

[Dale FZ1]

So what was changed to alter the boost control and stop it falling away quite as much?

Very interesting to watch the progress with this setup over time, and I did wonder how the external gate mod would work. Also how well it lasts, given the sorts of problems most people report when welding cast iron.

Top marks.

[Lithium]

Nice, sounds like a LOT of fun - but full boost at 3800rpm isn't as good as I would have hoped to have heard, these are supposed to be similar to a GT3076R in terms of spool and slightly better in terms of flow? I am pretty sure GT3582Rs are making that boost by those revs on RB30s?

[megrac]

IMO they are not a magic spooling turbo, they spool right for about their size.

The bonus comes from them being cheap and strong, nothing more.

Edited September 29, 2009 by megrac

[CEF11E]

Dale,

I used both ports on the wastegate. bottom port was sent everything in terms of boost and the top port was sent bled boost. this kept a fairly steady form of boost control.

The manifolds and blocks of nissan engines are cast from the offcuts of panels after the stamping process. so even though it is cast it is of a fairly high grade with a low level of impurities. Hopefully it holds up well. there are no signs of stress as of yet.

Lithium, I also was hoping for full boost earlier, It may be the stock manifold holding it back or the lack of timing coming onto boost. its a fairly conservative tune. and if a 3582 is a 3540 with a .82 rear housing then you'd be very close.

I think with a better manifold design and some more tuning time you would get it coming on quicker.

I am still happy with it!