Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Posted this in the Security and Alarm section but didn't even get a single reply you guys here always seem pretty helpful so hopefully one of you guys can point me in the right direction?

Well basically my R33 GTST 1995 came with a nifty simple as chips pivot turbo timer it's controlled by a rotary dial with a selection of 0 1 or 3 minutes the actual unit is just under the fuse box and it's seems pretty straight forward but I have no idea what wire is what. The problem is that my Turbo Timer appears to be linked to the ACC rather then just the ignition so when I turn the car off everything stays on and my alarm system wont activate until it turns off and even more of a problem is that the doors automatically unlock (which I can turn off but I'd love it it worked properly) when the engine shuts do you guys know if this is a hard fix? I'm assuming its a few wires needed to be switched around but I just cant figure out which!

Also if you guys know how to setup remote start that would be great to, it's all set up but i cant find out where to put the ignition sense wire! The cluster is all electronic so nothing there and cant find anything in the engine bay :)

Any help is appreciated in advance

James

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271431-need-some-help-with-my-turbo-timer/
Share on other sites

My alarm had to be turbo timer compatible.

ie: When i purchased the alarm, i was asked if my car was turbo and if i had a turbo timer. They then supplied an alarm that would wait for the engine to stop, before immobilizing; the doors lock, etc while the engine is running.

If your alarm is not compatible you'll need to put up with it or buy a new alarm.

Yea AL it is compatible but the way it works is that it arms when the ACC has been turned off I thought it wasn't compatible and was just dealing with it until I met someone on teh Pizza curse who had the exact same alarm and his was all fine and dandy which got me thinking on getting these things fixed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 馃槂
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
  • Create New...