R33 Auto Vs Manual Ecu

[datsfreak]

I just found out my manual turbo r33 that I just bought was a converted AUTO. It has the the auto ECU, and looking at the specs the auto makes less power then the manual. Can I swap the ecu for a manual one or are they the same?

I think it still has the auto 4.4 diff also.

[Basti]

they make the same pwer at the flywheel. its the transmission that makes the difference. so you should be fine

[paulr33]

known differences

- dash cluster

- ecu

- diff gears

- turbocharger actuator

the auto runs less boost (lower rated spring) so make sure you fit a boost controller (or change the actuator)

from memory the auto runs about 4psi and the manual runs 7psi so definetly a difference worth fixing

[Basti]

wow really? i had no idea bout the actuator. why whould that be the case paul? seems like an unnecessary difference to me.

[KwS]

known differences

- dash cluster

- ecu

- diff gears

- turbocharger actuator

the auto runs less boost (lower rated spring) so make sure you fit a boost controller (or change the actuator)

from memory the auto runs about 4psi and the manual runs 7psi so definetly a difference worth fixing

I call BS on the boost thing. My auto GTS25T runs a solid 8psi. Factory ecu, factory boost solenoid (earthed to keep it at high boost).

[Pal]

ran a auto ECU when i done my conversion for years. put a manual ECU in at the end of last year, the only thing it did is clean up the idle a little and a bit nicer power curve.

[datsfreak]

ran a auto ECU when i done my conversion for years. put a manual ECU in at the end of last year, the only thing it did is clean up the idle a little and a bit nicer power curve.

did you need to do anything special for the manual ecu? I mean did it just plug in and go ? and were you able to remove the auto computer afterwards?

[Pal]

did you need to do anything special for the manual ecu? I mean did it just plug in and go ? and were you able to remove the auto computer afterwards?

just unplugged the auto computer and plugged in the manual. have got a SAFC2 and had that retuned on the dyno. if the car is stock, it shouldnt be a problem. just plug it in.

[R31Nismoid]

You can run a AUTO ECU in a MANUAL no problem

Any variance you will see IMO will just be the fact its a different car to another, they are all different

[paulr33]

the auto acutator has a different spring, thus it runs less boost

i have seen this with my own eyes in an auto R33 GTST

i suspect they just made it run less boost to make it not as quick and attractive

and perhaps to make it more nimble when driving it? maybe those who wanted auto cars in japland didnt want fast ones?

i mean were only talking 2 psi, but its a bit of difference i guess

and if you would like to double check, in case you think im wrong (haha?)

then check the R33 nissan service manual

r33_engine_manual.pdf

page 173 of 491

or EN-153

r33 auto boost = 270mmhg = 5.22 PSI

r33 manual boost = 385mmhg = 7.44 PSI

[Guilt-Toy]

if you have a series 1.5 car then the auto ecu in that has more aggresive timing curve and makes more power then the manual ecu

[datsfreak]

crap -so i'm missing out on 2 psi?

that is ALOT if im only getting 5 psi.

My factory gauge reads about a 2-3mm below the middle line.

Suppose I should get a cheap temp boost gauge to check it , and if it low then get a bleeder.

thanks for the info guys

the auto acutator has a different spring, thus it runs less boost

i have seen this with my own eyes in an auto R33 GTST

i suspect they just made it run less boost to make it not as quick and attractive

and perhaps to make it more nimble when driving it? maybe those who wanted auto cars in japland didnt want fast ones?

i mean were only talking 2 psi, but its a bit of difference i guess

and if you would like to double check, in case you think im wrong (haha?)

then check the R33 nissan service manual

r33_engine_manual.pdf

page 173 of 491

or EN-153

r33 auto boost = 270mmhg = 5.22 PSI

r33 manual boost = 385mmhg = 7.44 PSI

[datsfreak]

nah - ive got a s1.-- good info to know tho

if you have a series 1.5 car then the auto ecu in that has more aggresive timing curve and makes more power then the manual ecu

[paulr33]

crap -so i'm missing out on 2 psi?

that is ALOT if im only getting 5 psi.

My factory gauge reads about a 2-3mm below the middle line.

Suppose I should get a cheap temp boost gauge to check it , and if it low then get a bleeder.

thanks for the info guys

yeah this is exaclty what the auto does on max boost full load

on the stock guage it reads below the middle line noticbly below

the manual gtst goes above the middle line

its a fair difference

you would find it better to do basic stage 1 mods though...

exhaust

intercooler

boost to 12psi

interceptor device (safc, piggyback, remap)

the car will run loops around the factory setup

[KwS]

im still not convinced. Is that manual for S1 or S2? Everything i have read, and tested points to the S2 (atleast) running 6psi/8psi factory boost, using the dual stage solenoid. Earthing that solenoid makes it run 8psi all the time. Thats regardless of if its manual or auto.

Ive driven two auto 25Ts now, and both have done 8psi (one is my own one, and that runs 9psi due to free flow panel filter, no other engine mods), and the other one had exhaust done, ran 8psi. The second one was a S2 sedan.

I havent driven a manual one yet, so cant comment on them.

[KiwiRS4T]

Well my auto Stagea (RB25DET) ran 5lb and 7lb. Three suggestions for you:

1. [no cost solution] You can get 10psi by bypassing the solenoid altogether. Follow SK's directions and bore out the restrictor and you can get any psi you want (see post #40): http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ja....html&st=20

or

2. [low cost solution $30 or so] get an RB20 actuator (they run 10psi)

and or

3. [From $200 - jaycar eibc plus hand controller like mine or up to $1000 for flash big name one] Get an electronic boost controller (not a bleed type which will be little better than #1 above) to build boost more quickly and hold it longer.

[Mayuri Krab]

yeah this is exaclty what the auto does on max boost full load

on the stock guage it reads below the middle line noticbly below

the manual gtst goes above the middle line

its a fair difference

So does that mean there's no 2nd stage boost for an auto? My auto car hits ~5psi fairly quickly with just a bit of lead foot from standstill.

I have never fully floored it so I (never revved over 4,500 rpm) don't know if there is the 2nd stage boost or not, where it hits ~7psi.

[KwS]

my S2 auto definitely has a 2 stage solenoid in it (although mine is grounded to get high boost all the time)

[BB81DO]

ive got a GTS-T auto and ive now done the boost mod and it runs 8-9psi all day everyday

[datsfreak]

thats good info( i didnt know about the no - cost option)

With the RB20 actuator, is that 10psi with the rb25 boost controller or iwith a direct connection to the inlet nipple???

thank for the info

Well my auto Stagea (RB25DET) ran 5lb and 7lb. Three suggestions for you:

1. [no cost solution] You can get 10psi by bypassing the solenoid altogether. Follow SK's directions and bore out the restrictor and you can get any psi you want (see post #40): http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ja....html&st=20

or

2. [low cost solution $30 or so] get an RB20 actuator (they run 10psi)

and or

3. [From $200 - jaycar eibc plus hand controller like mine or up to $1000 for flash big name one] Get an electronic boost controller (not a bleed type which will be little better than #1 above) to build boost more quickly and hold it longer.