Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Have the following items for sale;

324mm Brake Upgrade Kit

S14 Calipers and rotors drilled to 4 stud

R32 GTR Front Calipers

Yokohama Advan 235/45/17 Semi's

RE 55's 235/45/17 semi's

17 x 7.5 + 35 ALT Wheels

16x7 & 16x8 Blitz Wheels

Whiteline Front Strut Brace

Info below.

All items located in Sydney.

All prices are near offer! Need these gone!

Can be contacted by PM or 0403 434 495.

BRAKES

Selling all these brake items as I am looking to upgrade to an AP Racing Kit.

1. 324mm Big Brake Upgrade Kit for S14/S15/R32/R33/Z32 300ZX

Price: $480 ono

This kit can be used with your standard calipers. You bolt this kit on to use a 324mm GTR Brembo sized rotor which not only looks better but provides better braking ability. This was only used for approximately 5000km. I have not used it I have only fitted it to make sure it all fits up which it does.

I bought the kit to use with the R32 GTR calipers but they did not fit.

Kit contains;

324mm GTR sized DBA 4000 rotors

Brackets to mount the caliper in the new position

All bolts, nuts and washers to fit

Ferodo Formula Pads (Standard sized pads can also be used and are recommended by some)

This is the same kit as this on ebay which sells for $900

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=130094159891

IMG_3743.jpg

2. S14 Brake Calipers with S14 rotors that have been redrilled to 4 stud.

Price: $350 ono

S14 calipers in reasonably good condition with rotors. Can use these on S13/180SX without having to do a 5 stud conversion. These were on my car for 25000km and did quite a few track days. They stop really well and I had no problems whatsoever with them. The rotors were machined approx 3000km's ago. The rust is from water that fell on the rotor - this will come straight off after a light drive.

Will throw in Lucas TRW pads that have only done one track day ie 400km's.

Caliper pics above ^^^^

IMG_3819.jpg

3. R32 GTR Front Brake Calipers

Price: $280 ono

R32 GTR front calipers that I bought but never used. Was told they came off a 1992 R32 with 70,000km's. Bought off a respected member on here. I have painted them with the intent to put onto the car.

These do not fit with the 324mm brake upgrade kit (I was told they did ) which is why I bought them.

IMG_3801.jpg

SEMI SLICKS

1. Yokohama Advan AO48 235/45/17 Full Set of 4

Price: $300 ono

OK condition, good for a few track days. Bought these a little while ago but never got round to fitting them up. Have been stored in my garage.

IMG_3802.jpg

IMG_3804.jpg

IMG_3806.jpg

2. Bridgestone RE55's 235/45/17 Full Set of 4

Price: See below

Still have a few track days in them maybe more. I changed to 5 stud so could not use the wheels they were on. They are still on the wheels.

IMG_3809.jpg

IMG_3816.jpg

WHEELS

1. 17x7.5 + 35 all 4 ALT Wheels

Price: $600 ono with the RE55's semi's

Some gutter rash, but they made great track wheels and or drift wheels. Have the Bridgestones semi on them.

Would prefer to sell together with the RE55's but can separate at buyers expense.

IMG_3814.jpg

IMG_3812.jpg

Worst of the gutter rash

IMG_3815.jpg

2. Blitz Rims 16 x 7 and 16 x 8 I think +35 and + 38

Price: $250 for all 4

One of the 16 x 8 rims has a chunk missing on the inside of the rim (probably 5-8cm wide) that would need to be repaired. Not knowing this I drove on the rim from Wakefield Park to Sydney and it drove fine, no wobble or sign of a buckle nor leaking tyre.

No pics but they look like these; not in as good nick though!

http://www.japanautoswrec.info/DSCF0861.JPG

STRUT BRACE

1. Whiteline Adjustable Front Strut Brace

Price: $100 ono

Don't need this as I have a Cusco Brace. Bought off a NS.com member. Came off a 180SX SR20DET.

IMG_3807.jpg

IMG_3808.jpg

Interested in brake upgrade kit. Could you check the postage price to 2830?

Have posted rotors previously using Australia post.

I would say it would be absolute maximum $50 using registered post.

Thanks to all those interested.

Semi Slicks and ALT Wheels are Sold.

Strut Brace is Sold.

324mm Brake Upgrade Kit - Offer made awaiting deposit to be paid.

All other items still available.

Thanks.

324mm Brake Upgrade Kit Sold.

Items remaining are;

S14 calipers with rotors (4 and 5 stud)

R32 GTR calipers

Blitz 16 inch wheels with Kuhmo Semi Slicks (pretty worn) Will post pics tonight or tomorrow

Thanks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I was going to say, "Is the wastegate set up so that it is not leaking?" That's actually a different thing to what you're asking about. In theory, if you have allowed the two halves of the manifold to commmunicate (more than the stock manifold does - which is at least a little bit) then the negative effect should be apparent in delayed spool, not in outrigth power. OK, maybe just maybe, a badly set up twin scroll wastegate "crosstalk" might kill the top end, although it's hard to see how. What is happening with the original wastegate in the turbo? is it sealed off properly. If it's left flapping in the breeze, it will f**k everything up. If it is still there, and can be returned to service, I'd be capping off the external (presuming the two halves can and will be isolated from each other after doing so) and have a go with just the stock wastegate. I have an internal wastegate in my highflowed rear housing. The bigger opening and flapper should be fine to >250 rwkW. So there's not exactly a pressing reason to have the external. Done right, an external will give better results. Done wrong, it might just be possible to have worse results. Report back!
    • Hi Rob It's a nistune ecu. Yes same shop, good reputation. Apparently the computer on the dyno is compensated for temperature.    Chris was saying that the lean or richness of the mixture would be covered in the actual tune, but he's already picking up in advance that it's under what it should be. Regards the dyno, it's also noticeable on the road. But I just want to add something that has just come in, it appears there might be something in the setup of the external wastegate. In the exhaust manifold there is a centre divider between the front three and rear three cylinders. The external wastegate has a pipe from each side that join at the wastegate. Theory is those two pipes just might be pypassing that divider and introducing a problem somehow. Is anyone familiar with the divider in the exhaust manifold and the effects if the two wastegate pipes were to create a bypass path? Thanks for your questions Rob, interested in your thoughts on this external wastegate bypass theory. Regards Rob
    • Meh, At 60 years old, I have been doing dumb stuff for much longer than you mate, I am the true King And unfortunately I cannot be a maroon, as I am not brownish red As for not getting ITB's, the plenum intake will apparently show typical gains across the board and increase induction noise a bit, but, have all over less dort than ITB's Cost difference for the extra ITB dorts was significant though, the total parts for the plenum set up is "around" $2kAUD plus shipping, the ITB's were $4kAUD plus shipping, I was contemplating really hard about paying the extra $2k for all of the dorts, but weirdly, some form of common sense, from listening to the platform experts prevailed  As for the NA mod hate by some, I've had a few boosted cars, with all their inherent issues, I'm now looking at simplicity and legalities for a street car, maybe I'm just getting old, and I'm quite happy to spend some of the kids inheritance, 5kw at a time 🤣 And think of all the money I'll be saving on consumables that something with boost needs, like engines, gearboxes, diffs, clutches,  tilt trays... etc. etc. etc. 🤪
    • Haha.  I wouldn't say I am either but I've definitely been around it plenty.  I'm guessing you know the dial in is basically to make a handicap to level the playing field between racers.  The car with the slower dial in goes first and in theory if they run their dial in time and the faster car also does then they cross the finish time if they also have exactly the same reaction time - if you go faster than the dial in them you lose, but if you are too slow there's a good chance the other person will get to the finish line first. I'm normally supporting other cars but they were all pretty dialled and were egging me on to race as well, here's one of the cars I tune (Starlet) which ran within like 1 hundredth of its dial in through the competition: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inEBu-d9Gn4&t=69s
    • Where ever the fuel reg gets it reference is what I use to T into for map reference been a very long time so where it goes to plenum/runners I have no idea but never had issues. 
×
×
  • Create New...