Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just had my O2 sensors replaced and my R32 GTR runs much better!

During cruise and light throttle the car is more responsive and quieter! I no longer have to down shift to go up small grades and the fuel economy is better. I should have done it sooner!

About a month ago I took my car out to Hills Motorsports to have them run it on the dyno. Before we started, they hooked up the diagnostic tool and found my rear O2 sensor was dead, and the front was not responding very well. At R32 GTR owners know, the Titania sensors are expensive. I shopped around and found Kudos Motorsports had the best price on 2 new sensors. I gave them my info and received the O2 sensors within a few days. I took my car back out to Hills Motorsports and they installed them for me. Driving away from the shop I noticed an immediate improvement in the throttle response during light throttle. A side note, the black on the back of my white car from the exhaust has reduced considerably.

Thanks Hills Motorsports and Kudos Motorsports! I would recommend using both of these businesses!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271646-o2-sensors-replaced/
Share on other sites

To talk the the factory ECU you need a CONSULT cable and software for your laptop. It will show what the sensors are displaying and from that you can deduce their condition. I have the PLMS consult cable. It works.

http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/consult_if.shtml

To talk the the factory ECU you need a CONSULT cable and software for your laptop. It will show what the sensors are displaying and from that you can deduce their condition. I have the PLMS consult cable. It works.

http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/consult_if.shtml

yup, i have the consult cable + software but didnt check o2 sensors prior to swapping to PFC, do u know if PFC picks up faulty sensors at all?

yup, i have the consult cable + software but didnt check o2 sensors prior to swapping to PFC, do u know if PFC picks up faulty sensors at all?

Check paulr33's PFC faq;

http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...powerfc-faq.htm

I haven't checked the km's per tank yet... I do know that from Tuesday to Tuesday the petrol gage is down on empty. This week it is on a quarter tank. (Not scientific, I know.) The exhaust sound was louder and you could tell it was rich. Now it runs smoother and the exhaust note is crisper. On any slight uphill I would have to down shift. Now it has some power down low so you can just push on the accelerator a little and it picks up speed. My wife even noticed the difference!

The change is significant if your O2 sensors are bad. Because they are so expensive, have them checked first!

Mark out at Hills Motorsports in Castle Hill is very good.

  • 1 month later...

i've been fairly interested in this thread.

My O2 sensors on my 32 GTR went bust when my turbo blew and obsiously broke the sensor.

since then i got the turbos replaced to new ones, which are the 2860-5's and because the sensor was buggered the car would run like a real pig when they were plugged in. so i unplugged them. then a week later i spun a bearing!

i know bad luck hey!

since that i got a motor rebuild, forgies, new crank, race bearings, thicker head gasket,etc

but didnt replace the O2 sensors, they've only gotten installed today, but for about a month of not having them plugged in on the new motor the car has been runing fine.

getting around 15L/100km which isnt too bad, but that has been conservative driving.

going to pick it up today,

will post again to let you guys know if i notice any difference.

You can even use a O2 Sensor to test it..

On a cruise in 5th gear doing around 60km/h A/F ratio should be near stoich (14.7) as the closed loop circuitry should trim the fuel down so it leans out, if it's running HEAPS rich you know your O2 is dead.

PFC users

ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK

look at 02-1 and 02-2

these are your 02 sensors

they should blip up and down when you tap the throttle

if they are toast they will show 0.00 or hardly move

and the sensor name may become highlighted in black background if its shagged/unplugged

the O2 sensors didnt make much difference to overall power, but it definitely does feel a lot nicer to cruise around.

my fuel ecconomy has improved heaps too, i did a bit of a country drive on the weekend and i've still got a 1/4 left in the tank (yes, i know its a guage reading which isnt accurate at all) but i've done 450+ kms

before i would struggle to get 400kms out of a full tank, i know the country drive would've helped.

the car seems to be a little more responsive at low revs too when its off boost.

just feels and sounds more crisp

i got genuine ones, and i'd say they're well worth the money!

i dont think my mechanic took too long to do it?

he didnt charge me any labour though, because it was supposed to be done with my build but the sensors didnt come in.

i would assume it would be a bit of a pain, just like doing most work in the cramped engine bay of a GTR.

i think you might need a special tool to be able to undo it?

not 100% sure??

Brez

the O2 sensors didnt make much difference to overall power, but it definitely does feel a lot nicer to cruise around.

my fuel ecconomy has improved heaps too, i did a bit of a country drive on the weekend and i've still got a 1/4 left in the tank (yes, i know its a guage reading which isnt accurate at all) but i've done 450+ kms

before i would struggle to get 400kms out of a full tank, i know the country drive would've helped.

the car seems to be a little more responsive at low revs too when its off boost.

just feels and sounds more crisp

i got genuine ones, and i'd say they're well worth the money!

they shouldn't alter power output.

there is a special tool, 02 sensor removal tool

its bascially an open ended socket so you can slide it over the sensor and it doesnt clash with the plug

i think its about $30 from repco, without it = dont bother

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that ne side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
    • Don't assume the AC relay signal from the ECU is +, some models including Stagea use an earth trigger.
    • Hey good to see you on the forums! Haha Considering this cars past with electronic issues I am leaning towards it being a wiring fault somewhere in the engine bay. When testing the ac relay in the fuse box there was no earth trigger. I am probably going to try "bench test" the compressor by giving it direct ground and power to see if i can hear the ac clutch click otherwise I will be pretty sure I have a dead compressor. If it does work then I will be tracing some wiring it seems.
×
×
  • Create New...