Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My aircon only works when the revs are above 1500rpm. When i stop at the lights you can hear the aircon compressor clutch click off, then when the revs go above 1500rpm it clicks and starts to get cold again.

Has anyone else had this problem or can help me sort it out?

Thanks David

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271689-air-con-stops-working-below-1500rpm/
Share on other sites

there's a low-rpm cutout on AC so that you don't stall your car, sounds like yours is set too high. i've seen knobs on an ECU which control the low RPM cutout before, or it's under the passenger side dash a lot of the time. can't help ya with R33s unfortunately never needed to find it on mine ;)

sorry i dont think that correct. im a nissan mechanic turned a/c mechanic and unless i missed somthing there isnt a cutout switch for any nissan....

you have a pressure switch that cuts the clutch in and out which cannot be adjusted..... and you also have an idle motor (IAC) that allows more air flow thro the throttle body to compensate the extra load on the engine wen ac is on)

your saying it only happens above say 1500 but is that 1500rpm on the spot or while driving..... sounds to me like your a/c fan isnt working or ur gas is overcharged just abit..... and only works wen you have enuf air flow to cool the gas and bring the pressures down......

see wot its doing..... pm me if u want more assistance....

goodluck mate :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From the pictures I have when doing the job the flywheel is the same diameter, I don't think they're playing weird tricks like putting weights at the outer diameter to increase flywheel inertia or anything like that. The OEM flywheel is definitely heavier, but it's not a huge difference. Quoted weight savings of the clutch is 2 kg so I can't imagine the flywheel being lighter than ~7 kg. Kind of regret not weighing it before the clutch went into the car but as far as driveability goes I have no complaints.
    • HKS trigger kit should be very easy to integrate with a Link. It's a 36-2 crank trigger. Hard part is finding the motivation to take off the timing belt and everything on the front of the engine to install it. You also need to cut out a hole in the oil pump housing so the sensor can read the trigger wheel. Changing out the cam sensor for a 24 tooth setup is probably good enough but as others have mentioned depending on what underlying assumptions are changed it becomes more of a problem. Reading the crank state off of the cam is an abstraction that works in the general case, but if you have an edge case it makes less and less sense. There is a GTX2860 gen 2 that can take a compact 5 bolt housing so it's direct bolt on but I'm not 100% sure of what's involved. Peak compressor efficiency drops off a bit on these turbos vs -5s, 77% vs 73% but you get way, way wider region of operation. The -5s have a really strange surge line in their compressor map that is all over the place. If you think the hot side on the -5s aren't open enough you can try the Tomei T550B turbos which a local tuner seems to be happy with:
    • i need a complete tail light for my R33 GTR if you have please let me know.
    • I need a great maintenance workshop around Idaho, if you know one please let me know..
    • Hello friends, i have a good friend in Canada that looking for a good condition 1993 GTR around him please if one or know someone around you that is willing to let it go please let me know so that i can inform him.....Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...