Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I am a noobie to the whole skyline scene. This might be a stupid question but I have to ask.

Is it normal for the release bearing to make singing sound when the car is idling, because when you put your foot on the clutch, it goes away. When you release you get this singing sound. I was told this is normal and just need some piece of mind.

Car: R32 Gts-t (92)

Any info will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271797-r32-release-bearing-noise/
Share on other sites

Mine's been doing it for a while now. Started making the noise a few months after i replaced it. I haven't really worried about it and it hasn't caused any problems, but i will replace it next time the gearbox is out.

If it's the throwout (thrust) bearing it will be noisy when the clutch is engaged.

If the noise occurs when the clutch is disengaged, then subsides when the clutch is engaged it is more often than likely your output shaft bearing.

im sorry guys but your all horribly wrong..(apart from you 2lv8 you partly correct) the thrust brg will only make a noise when the clutch is ENGAGED as it only spins when its up against the pressure plate.

The noise you are hearing is a very common noise with the 32's, its the bearings on the main shaft in the centre housing your selector shafts run through of your gearbox. Only way you will get rid of it is putting a bearing kit through the gearbox. Just replacing the input shaft bearing will most likely not fix the noise completly

wait til it starts clunking when the bearings start moving about in the cage, then worry about it which depending on how its been driven will be about 200K Km. Drain your gearbox oil you will most likely find shavings.

If you buy a S/H 20 gearbox you will be buying the same problem

Edited by BANGN
im sorry guys but your all horribly wrong..(apart from you 2lv8 you partly correct) the thrust brg will only make a noise when the clutch is ENGAGED as it only spins when its up against the pressure plate.

"If it's the throwout (thrust) bearing it will be noisy when the clutch is engaged."

That's what I said......

The noise you are hearing is a very common noise with the 32's, its the bearings on the main shaft in the centre housing your selector shafts run through of your gearbox. Only way you will get rid of it is putting a bearing kit through the gearbox. Just replacing the input shaft bearing will most likely not fix the noise completly

wait til it starts clunking when the bearings start moving about in the cage, then worry about it which depending on how its been driven will be about 200K Km. Drain your gearbox oil you will most likely find shavings.

If you buy a S/H 20 gearbox you will be buying the same problem

A few times I've come across this issue and it was the input shaft bearing. It sounds like a straight cut set when you drive the car.

Either way, if he leaves it too long he'll have issues.

So what do you guys suggest I do, and how much will it cost coz I'm running on a tight budget this month.

Also the guy I spoke to said that the is like that, but like I said before I'm a complete noob to the skyline scene. I used to have an exel before, so yeah...the more info the better.

If you know what you're doing, crack it open and install a bearing kit through it.

If you don't know what you're doing, get a quote from a reputable mechanic and weigh the costs against installing a second hand box from a wrecker. Make sure you have some sort of return warranty in case the box is stuffed.

If you have a mate who can help you, you should be able to do it yourself for zero cost.

you dont need to go OEM... I ordered mine from WA DRIVE, Most brgs are Koyo and some bits n pc's genuine.. u can get a half kit cheap... which is just main shaft & input shaft brgs (not gear rollers) I went the whole hog but not about to disclose the cheap price i payed through work.

Edited by BANGN

i got all the main bearing's for my box for $90 i think theres 6-7?? the one that was f**ked was the main shaft bearing in the carrier plate...

anyway i stripped the box down almost completely, but can't get the massive nut off the main shaft so gave up lol.....

killed another rb20 box in the meantime so rather than rebuilding it i think ill just bite the bullet and go RB25....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had absolutely no symptoms whatsoever that anything was wrong.... I'm very happy it was all spotto'd and re-bled and re-torqued and aligned though. Will be picking it up tomorrow and undoubtedly be like "Oh, that clunk is gone" "Oh, the car really wants to drive straight" "Oh, that pedal feels better" "Oh, it feels like I've gained 25hp" "Oh, the handbrake works now" It should have been a sign that the new Project Mu shoes had 3mm of pad depth on them out of the box, and the OEM ones from 25 years ago that we took out also had 3mm of pad depth, implying the issue was not, and never was the shoes, but we put that down to it not being adjusted correctly. It wasn't, but it wasn't even adjustable at all given one side was boned and the T Junction of the cables was on a 45 degree angle, the non-working side being the one on the massive angle. Obviously when I had adjusted it and reset it and re-tensioned it I had either got it stuck or something along those lines. Oh well. Live and learn and absolutely could have been catastrophically worse so I'm rationalizing it as a win, kinda. I also got the chance to measure the distance between rear rim and the suspension arm/shocks and found a 30mm rubber block only just doesn't fit there. Which is great to know before ordering wheels, when I assumed 30mm was easy. The man with the Porsche adapters has rims that use 23.9mm of that space, so it's safe to assume I have between 23.9 and 29.9mm of space there to play with on the inside. The wheels looked pretty stupidly pokey with the 20mm spacers on the rear, only for me to find that the studs come out another 12mm and the wheel doesn't actually sit flush with the hub because you're supposed to cut your original studs. The wheels do have cutouts that kinda accomodate it, but not fully. So my 20mm spacer was anywhere between 25mm and 35mm. ~25mm and send it will determine on where the wheels sit with the spacers on. When I put the pads in for the track day I will mess around with spacers (with wheels that do not clear studs properly when mounted to spacers) and do more math, for the last time, for the 7th time.
    • Lucky pick up Best to find these things before something horrible happened to the yoke flange thingies I would hate to think what would happen if it dropped the tailshaft  Hopefully the holes are not flogged out in the yokes and it was just the bolts that got munted  As for the hand brake.....ouch, look like the disc got rather hot, and I assume smokey, I recall when I had a front caliper seize on the Commodore, there was lots of smoke and the disc was glowing cherry red when I was able to eventually stop and have a look, and stopping a big heavy car, going down a big hill with some rather high RPM down shifts and some hand brake action is something that makes you think hard about life
    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that one side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
×
×
  • Create New...