Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i can allready tell this topic will be a hecktic one lol

but i read in a magazine (HPI) that by removing the mesh that is apparently ment to "smoothen out the flow" of the air going in will actualy give you 11% more flow with out them... they said there there mainly to stop the whetston bridge? (afm sensor) getting KO'd by random stuff if your pod falls off?? worth while to try im thinking just wanted to see what all you dudes thaught :D cheers.

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I always go by the rule that the factory put it there for a reason.

Also ... how much of that (claimed) 11% increase will you gain depending on what filter you run?

Seems like a too greater risk to me, for such a (realistically) small gain. I doubt you'd notice any gain.

Any other thoughts? :D

umm i would rather keep the mesh and not have the extra 11% flow and keep everything safe in the line Adam

but then again chances of that falling is pretty much none so would be worth giving it a go

I always go by the rule that the factory put it there for a reason.

Also ... how much of that (claimed) 11% increase will you gain depending on what filter you run?

Seems like a too greater risk to me, for such a (realistically) small gain. I doubt you'd notice any gain.

Any other thoughts? :D

Nissan put the turbo, boost solenoid, exhaust and suspension there for a reason too, why did you upgrade?

:D

they mightve put em there for a reason, but that doesnt mean those parts didnt suck. :D

ps, ill be buying some donuts from you me thinks.

Edited by scandyflick
Nissan put the turbo, boost solenoid, exhaust and suspension there for a reason too, why did you upgrade?

they were following certain neccessary things in building a new car, you cant roll a car off the production line with 95db exhaust systems and rock hard coil overs

however im sure they dont say, hey i know a way we can make this car go slower for no apparent reason

Nissan put the turbo, boost solenoid, exhaust and suspension there for a reason too, why did you upgrade?

:D

They're not sensitve to particles in the air :dry:

(turbo 'maybe' if you run no pod and drive thru sand storm)

Nissan uses black grills and mesh for a reason tongue.gif

Ouch! Why all the blue mesh hate :P

Edited by RubyRS4
they were following certain neccessary things in building a new car, you cant roll a car off the production line with 95db exhaust systems and rock hard coil overs

however im sure they dont say, hey i know a way we can make this car go slower for no apparent reason

The reason there is mesh in an afm is to keep the air flow at a consistent speed. If you remove the mesh you can get turbulence in certain portions of the cross section while the air starts circling around the inside of the tube, and that in turn gives your AFM an incorrect reading - yes you can force more air thru the tube if you remove the mesh but the electronics wont actually read it consistently because the sensor is in the middle of the tube - turbulence could put a dead spot in that very section (like the eye of a tornado)

-D

The reason there is mesh in an afm is to keep the air flow at a consistent speed. If you remove the mesh you can get turbulence in certain portions of the cross section while the air starts circling around the inside of the tube, and that in turn gives your AFM an incorrect reading - yes you can force more air thru the tube if you remove the mesh but the electronics wont actually read it consistently because the sensor is in the middle of the tube - turbulence could put a dead spot in that very section (like the eye of a tornado)

-D

And there you have it

[end thread]

:dry:

....circling around the inside of the tube, and that in turn gives your AFM an incorrect reading - yes you can force more air thru the tube if you remove the mesh but the electronics wont actually read it consistently because the sensor is in the middle of the tube - turbulence could put a dead spot in that very section (like the eye of a tornado)

TURBULANCE IN A TURBO wouldnt that make it go faster? twin turbulance super mod :dry:

Edited by Inline 6

i did this about 8 years ago in my 33 you can see a slight difference on the dyno n gained 4rwkw if i remember

yes it was a before and after thing and with no filter i gained like 8rwkw

if you have a decent filter on its a ok and free upgrade, tune does help it along also

but.. what does 11% flow equate to? ..2% increase in kws, 10kph increase in top speed, less turbo lag??

IMO prob only slightly faster spool up. Turbo size and filter used already determines volume of air. It would only have a small effect outside the effects of turbo and filter. I reckon its just spools up marginally quicker, but you'd wouldn't know it.

Anybody got any "on paper" testing/documentation?

Edited by RubyRS4

maybe replace it with blue mesh, it will get 11% for sure then

dont remove it.. unless you want to destroy the tiny ass hot wire on the sensor ....not worth it for 11% gain in seat of the pants take your spare out and stereo

Edited by sapphiregraphics
maybe replace it with blue mesh, it will get 11% for sure then

dont remove it.. unless you want to destroy the tiny ass hot wire on the sensor ....not worth it for 11% gain in seat of the pants take your spare out and stereo

yeah if u wanna go faster, follow my dads advice "Eat Less Kebabs"

Truer words ne'er spoken.

-D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Big R34 GTR parts cleanout. I have a lot of stuff collected over the last 14 years and my missus is giving me hard time. Make my life easy.   Nismo GT carbon fibre diffuser fins (discontinued)  NEW  $2900 Garage Defend Stingray canards carbon fibre  NEW  $1300  Top Secret G Force carbon fibre front diffuser  NEW  $2000  Haltech Elite 2500  NEW  $2500  Haltech Platinum Pro R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Apex’I power FC D'jetro + hand controller R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Nissan OEM BNR34 ECU  USED   $1000  HKS EVC 6  USED  $600  Blitz dual SBC ID boost controller.  USED  $350  TRE 255 LPH Fuel pump  NEW  $100  Fujitsubo  Super Ti exhaust  USED  $2700  Tomei Expreme Ti exhaust  USED  $2000  Trust stainless steel front pipe  USED  $1000  Apex’I super suction kit  USED $400  BC BR coilovers  USED  $600  Hardrace front upper camber kit. USED  $300  Garret 2860-5 turbos –  one good, one needs reco USED  $1000  Nissan OEM Toshiba MFD Screen replacement  NEW  $450  Nissan OEM BNR34 Series II front passenger seat  USED (mint) $5000   Nissan OEM BNR34 front bar in TV2  USED  $1000  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler  USED  $900  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler (painted)  USED  $900  Nismo front indicator (clear) USED  $80 Nissan OEM BNR34 radiator  USED $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 turbos  USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intercooler USED  $800  Nissan OEM BNR34 front swaybar   USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intake pipes   USED  $400    Also have a square set of uber rare Volk CE28n in 19*10 +22. Not really keen to sell these but make a high enough offer and maybe I will. If you don't know how much these usually sell for don't bother.   PM for pics.  Pickup Chadstone VIC or postage at buyer's expense.
    • Thanks Mate, I did know you could do that but i know there is a pump out there that you can bolt on and it all lines up. I was told about it and then forgot the model, I figure if i am pulling it apart i will just put a new one on 
    • You can also remove the veins from the HICAS portion of your existing pump. 
    • Trying to swap the rear subframe on my R34 and can't remove the L-shaped stay brackets between the front subframe mounts and the sill/chassis. I'm in the UK so rust is a problem. I've used loads of WD40 and then Tunap 103 for days beforehand. I backed off the bolts forward a bit, backward a bit repeatedly for ages to try and avoid snapping. They have all moved a few full turns. The one I've spent most time on has come loose and I can turn with fingers, and it will pull down and push up 2-3mm. But it won't come out. I can tighten it back up and loosen it off again repeatedly but it still won't come out. I assumed there's a captive nut inside but if that's broken loose then I can't understand why I can always tighten the bolt back up - I'd expect it to just spin both ways. Any ideas what's happening here? I can't visualise what's inside there to cause this.
    • Cheers, yeah it was recently imported, is the actual Nissan not an Infiniti so will have to do some chasing around for parts.    Any ideas if the side skirts from a Q50 would fit on the 400r?
×
×
  • Create New...