Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey marko.

looks like ur a new member :D welcome to skylines australia :D

ok now you need to reset the ecu if u change the o2 sensor. to reset ecu just disconnect the battery and let leave it for a couple of minutes to discharge. you cud press down on the brake as well to discharge whatever is left. once done reconnect you battery and away you go ;)

Edited by zerotohundred
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271900-reset-ecu/#findComment-4623122
Share on other sites

hey marko.

looks like ur a new member ;) welcome to skylines australia :D

ok now you need to reset the ecu if u change the o2 sensor. to reset ecu just disconnect the battery and let leave it for a couple of minutes to discharge. you cud press down on the brake as well to discharge whatever is left. once done reconnect you battery and away you go :)

^^ what he said :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271900-reset-ecu/#findComment-4623144
Share on other sites

Pffft...I still can't believe you guys would go into so much trouble to reset the ECU.

The proper way to do it according to a NISSAN ECR33 Service Manual is this.

1.On the right hand side just under your steering wheel is a fuse box cover. Pull it off. You will see a set of fuses and some Wiring Looms.

The one we'll need looks like this, it is not connected to anything, this is your diagnostic plug that NISSAN uses to find faults.

post-47546-1243511881_thumb.jpg

2.Now grab a piece of wire, bout .5mm-1mm in diameter, you need atleast 10cm and splice the two ends off like this.

post-47546-1243512015_thumb.jpg

3.Now we're going to short out 2 (two) of these pins, which will reset the ECU in this process.

-Turn the Ignition onto "ON", within the next 10 seconds you need to...

-Place one end of the wire into the Bottom Left Pin. "YES" put it in there...you won't get a shock.

-Place the other end of the wire in the Pin right next to it....

LIKE THIS

post-47546-1243512292_thumb.jpg

Your engine light should Flash 5 (five) times SLOW and 5 (five) times FAST.

CONGRATS...ECU RESET!!!!

It does sound complicated, but it is EASY AS!

Any questions..feel free to ask!

Also, you will need to go for a spirited drive for the ECU to correct AFR's. Atleast 3 to 4 0-100km/h runs.

Fuel is not changed, as it uses standard fuel map, but rather adjusts the Air coming in.

It will fine tune itself over a period of days.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271900-reset-ecu/#findComment-4623223
Share on other sites

hello again!

i swapped the o2 sensor over the weekend as well as the full service was done on the car. took it yesterday for easy drive around, i used almost half of the fuel tank and done 190 kms which is much more than what i did before this!

only cost me $109 for the NGK o2 sensor from Autobarn!!!

Thanks for the help gentlemen!!!

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271900-reset-ecu/#findComment-4633800
Share on other sites

so umm .. changing the o2 sensor without resetting ECU would not do much good eh ? Because I have a remapped ECU with a special daughterboard installed ... would resetting the ECU make me lose my tune ie. AFRs and timing set by the tuner, when the ecu was remapped ??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271900-reset-ecu/#findComment-4633963
Share on other sites

so umm .. changing the o2 sensor without resetting ECU would not do much good eh ? Because I have a remapped ECU with a special daughterboard installed ... would resetting the ECU make me lose my tune ie. AFRs and timing set by the tuner, when the ecu was remapped ??

Tune is stored in read only memory, no way to undo it unless you pull the ECU apart and physically rip that chip out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271900-reset-ecu/#findComment-4634261
Share on other sites

Tune is stored in read only memory, no way to undo it unless you pull the ECU apart and physically rip that chip out

Oh cool, Good thing i read this before i started a new topic. I got a tuned ecu and wanna reset it before i run it in my car. Will give it it a go tonight.

Cheers

Edited by Benzino33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271900-reset-ecu/#findComment-4634423
Share on other sites

pretty sure they are the same. the very best way to do it is to buy a consult cable and reset it that way. it actually costs money to do but gives you a valuable piece of equipment that allows you to also monitor things like the AFM o2 sensor, etc as well as read fault codes without having to count a flashing light

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271900-reset-ecu/#findComment-4635914
Share on other sites

any free software that works with the usb consult cable ?? I'm thinking of getting a Nisture chip down the road so I might just get this usb consult from http://www.plmsdevelopments.com They sell the Nistune software too but right now I don't need it as I'm not getting the car retuned just yet..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271900-reset-ecu/#findComment-4636380
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
CONGRATS...ECU RESET!!!!

Any questions..feel free to ask!

the only question i have is "are you sure". i know what you've described is how you get the fault codes, but ive never heard it resets the learned parameters in the ECU? where did you read that? (i guess i should look in the service manual myself).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271900-reset-ecu/#findComment-4675805
Share on other sites

This ECU resetting logic is a bit askew in my opinion...

Why are we resetting the ECU? It doesn't store an infinite amount of driving patterns - with most ECUs the existing patterns should be overlapped after about 30 ignition starts anyway. It's certainly not necessary for installing a new oxygen sensor. My car is evidence of this; economy went from 250km per 50 litres to about 380 after installing my new sensor. Are we also assuming that the new oxygen sensor is not going to send voltage readings of its own, and that the ECU is infact going to reference the old sensor's readings instead? Kind of defeats the point of having an oxygen sensor in the first place don't you think!

Also, after resetting the ECU, full throttle 0-100km/h runs will in no way be beneficial - your standard driving style will overtake this in about 30 ignition starts anyway.

The only time I would reset an ECU is to clear fault codes or if I had idle troubles which the ECU can maintain even after driving pattern overlap. All this said, whenever I am working on engine bay wiring I disconnect the battery (which will automatically reset the ECU after 20 minutes anyway). However, oxygen sensor is just plug and play installation so you will be safe from electric shock.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271900-reset-ecu/#findComment-4676078
Share on other sites

Pffft...I still can't believe you guys would go into so much trouble to reset the ECU.

The proper way to do it according to a NISSAN ECR33 Service Manual is this.

Oh the irony ..how's doing ALL THAT less trouble than disconnecting the battery for a few mins ? Heh.

Anyway, changed my o2 sensor with a genuine Nissan one and got zero improvement. Changed the AFM too. I must be the only person on SAU who's had ZERO improvement after changing the o2 sensor. I do have a JJR dump pipe ..could that have something to do with it? Maybe the o2 sensor just isn't able to give correct readings? I read somewhere before that some people had problems with the JJR dump pipe..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271900-reset-ecu/#findComment-4676658
Share on other sites

economy hadn't changed after remap ..plus the remap made the AFRs leaner as it was running rich from factory as they all do, so you'd expect that would have given me a better economy on its own but nup..

The factory o2 sensor was not dead but it was time to replace it anyway. Just surprised neither new o2 sensor nor AFM made any difference, that's all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271900-reset-ecu/#findComment-4676986
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
    • New rear lights, filler panel sprayed, cleaned and back together    before, during, after shots 😍
×
×
  • Create New...