Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got an R33 rear end with 4.11 or 4.3 gears in my AC Cobra replica. I'm running a 6 speed behind a 6.0L V8 and need to fit the lower ratio 3.692 from the S15 into this cradle. Does anyone know for sure whether or not I need half shafts and CVs from the S15 or just the diff centre? I understand the R33 diff backing plate may need to be swapped over to the S15 diff.

Can anyone recommend a Jap wrecker in Melbourne metro? Also what's the going rate for a used S15 diff? Otherwise a good performance shop that may sell KAAZ/Nismo diff centre new?

Thanks in advance!

Edited by samps
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271924-s15-diff-into-r33-rear-end/
Share on other sites

Swap the crown wheel & pinion from the S15 diff to your R33 diff.

Thanks. Have you done this conversion? I spoke to a diff place and they said going from viscous to helical will probably mean I have to change the LSD centre as well.

Anyone know if I just get a complete S15 diff with half shafts, will it bolt straight into the R33 cradle once I've swapped the back covers?

Edited by samps

I've fitted a Stagea gearset into my R32 GTS4 diff. Swapping the gearset, you keep the centre - they are both "R200" diffs. Then the output shafts fit (they "plug into" the centre), and the halfshafts work. And the whole assembly fits into the cradle. No swapping external components (back plates), no worrying about half shafts.

Bit of a worry about the "diff place" - swapping viscous to helical is swapping the centre, AFAIK.

Talk to Steve at Speed Technology.

Bit of a worry about the "diff place" - swapping viscous to helical is swapping the centre, AFAIK.

Talk to Steve at Speed Technology.

Yes but you only said pinion and crown wheel, which leaves the centre out of it.

Not to worry, I've sourced an S15 diff complete with half/drive shafts from Sydney and it's a straight swap.

Cheers

  • 5 months later...

OK, I sourced a complete S15 manual diff centre from On Boost Auto (good price, good service) and it's in. Except they forgot to send half the bolts for the inner/outer half shafts. So I'm six bolts short and I've called them back but they don't have any more in the yard at the moment. It's been a few months since it arrived and me actually cleaning and fitting it.

I've tried a few bolt places but can't find a match or anything suitable to replace them in high tensile.

I thought I'd post here in case anyone has a spare set, perhaps from a broken diff or leftover from a conversion? We're talking about the 3 sets of 2 bolts/nuts/washers on each side of the diff that holds the inner/outer shafters together. Total of 6 required, S15 centre.

Any other suggestions welcome!

Paul

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Everyone is too used to learning from places like HPA "how to tune" and what to expect at what point, rather than being able to see "The computer says I'm in cell with Row = 8, column =4, and I can see my fuel is lean, so lets add more" Everyone wants "real units", which helps for someone picking it up for the first time and seeing how bad the tune is if they're not used to touching it.   However, I think for most of us who want to play with it, you're 100% right, we're only needing to learn about it for OUR CAR. Which makes it great, and we don't need to care what the real values are, we just need to know which cell it is, that's causing the lean or rich point, or that we want more ignition timing or less. But again, everyone wants everything super you beaut and nearly self tuning, with VE maps, and a billion compensations...   Though then there's me over here when I'm doing reverse engineering work just reading data in hex format that most people couldn't work anything out from. Yet I can see what's going on.
    • Um. No. Since Matt introduced the TIM it has become a lot easier to deal with the consequences of changing K for AFM and injector swaps. Then, tuning is a f**king doddle. No-one needs to know or care how many grams of air are flowing or any other bullshit. Need more fuel in a cell? Add more fuel. Need more timing in a cell. Add more timing. Need to adjust any of the other tables for warm up and so on? No harder than anything else. Sure - it's not an ECU system for starting from scratch on an arbitrary engine. But then.....it was never supposed to be, not recommended for, and almost never used that way. So.... On your engine, in particular, Nistune/Nissan OEM is about as sophisticated and difficult as banging 2 rocks together. Those ECUs are primitive and simple. There is nothing difficult there. I learnt Nistune from scratch, created new maps with extended axes, interpolated/extrapolated the original maps onto them and tuned my RB20 (basically the same ECU as your 26 ECU) all by myself, more than 20 years ago. And that was long before even TIM.
×
×
  • Create New...