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Hey And Dr30 Help

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FJ20DR30 Community Regular

FJ20DR30

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Posted

Hey My Names Marc

Im Living in Melbourne I have owed a few skylines over the years in New Zealand where I am originally from

I currently have a HR30 skyline Coupe which I am building into a race car. And it has proven to be very difficult to get advice on a car of this age, now personally I know a fair amount about these cars but there are still plenty of gaps and this forum, looks like a place that can help?

The car its self is a 1983 HR30 Japanese import coupe,

So far what I have done is..

I have a Skyline FJ20ET engine which we are mounting further back in the engine bay, it sits just behind the front wheels.

-R180 Lsd Diff

-R32 Type M turbo Brakes at the front

The car is pretty much stripped out

The first thing I want to no is can R31 front body parts be fitted to them ie Bumper guards bonnet and lights?

Second what’s a good computer to run with an FJ20 turbo? I wish to run anti lag and about 350ish Hp (I cannot make major HP changes due to its class) to run 350 hp will I need an upgrade of injectors or will the factory units cope?

Third have other users moved there engines back in the car? If so what solutions did you come up with for the brake booster?

Forth lol. Can rack and pinion steering be fitted to these cars with out a major fabrication?

Sorry about these questions and if they are a bit obscure but there are just so many things to do to it

Thank you very much for help with any of these things, there is more I wish to know but these are a few to start..

Thanks Again Marc

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Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

Hey My Names Marc

Im Living in Melbourne I have owed a few skylines over the years in New Zealand where I am originally from

I currently have a HR30 skyline Coupe which I am building into a race car. And it has proven to be very difficult to get advice on a car of this age, now personally I know a fair amount about these cars but there are still plenty of gaps and this forum, looks like a place that can help?

The car its self is a 1983 HR30 Japanese import coupe,

So far what I have done is..

I have a Skyline FJ20ET engine which we are mounting further back in the engine bay, it sits just behind the front wheels.

-R180 Lsd Diff .......................................... You should be using an R200 LSD

-R32 Type M turbo Brakes at the front

The car is pretty much stripped out

The first thing I want to no is can R31 front body parts be fitted to them ie Bumper guards bonnet and lights? ......................... Short version, NO!

Second what’s a good computer to run with an FJ20 turbo? I wish to run anti lag and about 350ish Hp (I cannot make major HP changes due to its class) to run 350 hp will I need an upgrade of injectors or will the factory units cope?

........................... I'm using an Adaptronics, if you do a search on this forum, there is a thread about them in "Forced Induction" it's the new boy on the block, a spin off from Autronics & half the cost. Does everything you want it to do. Injectors are far to small standard at 375cc, only good for about 350hp at the flywheel. You will need 440 at least & probably 460 or 550 maybe, yet most of these are 11mm O'Ring type, but it's up to you if you want to put the hose connection on them.

Third have other users moved there engines back in the car? If so what solutions did you come up with for the brake booster?

Forth lol. Can rack and pinion steering be fitted to these cars with out a major fabrication? .................... NO! it's a pain in the ass, but not impossible

Sorry about these questions and if they are a bit obscure but there are just so many things to do to it

Thank you very much for help with any of these things, there is more I wish to know but these are a few to start..

Thanks Again Marc

Cheers,

Dennis

FJ20DR30 Community Regular

FJ20DR30

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you Dennis

ill Check out the post on those computers!

what is the problem with the R180 diff?

and sorry for my ignorance can you explain the injector size issue when trying to fit larger ones?

Thanks again for your help

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

www.adaptronics.com.au might help as well.

On the web site they list dealer/tuners and I think you will find one in your area to talk to.

Mine is costing $2500.00 supplied, fitted, wired & tuned as opposed to about $4000.00 ++ for an Autronics SM4. And I took out a Mines ECU.

For racing, I don't think the R180 will withstand the beating. An R200 is the Jap IRS equivalent to Ford's 9 inch.

Injectors standard have a barbed top, for a hose & clamp fitting, where most of the newer types are O'Ring type and to fit the correctly you would need to buy a billet fuel rail to suit if it's not a detriment to your class.

What does puzzle me is why you wouldn't stick with the L Series originally fitted to your KHR30.

I was on the way to 300kW at the wheels from my L28et, before I bought the KDR30.

Cheers, D

FJ20DR30 Community Regular

FJ20DR30

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks again for your help.

i was aware the R200 was a better diff (but un aware the 180 would struggle) thank you ill look into this for cost cheers!

as for the FJ20 well to start i just like it better so simple some times but secondly i cant go above the cars 2.0ltr original compacity so i was limited to what it could produce. plus i blew up 2 L20ets so i just got over them also the FJ is lighter (not by Much) and more compact helping me to mount it further back in the Chassis helping with the cars balance and allowing me good room for v mounting the radiator, intercooler and oilcooler.

Cheers

DR JOSH Community Regular

DR JOSH

Posted
Posted (edited)

Dennis has answered most of your questions, will just extend on some.

Third have other users moved there engines back in the car? If so what solutions did you come up with for the brake booster?

A mate of mine is currently in the proccess of moving his motor back, I believe his course of action is pretty much just a custom intake manifold.

Forth lol. Can rack and pinion steering be fitted to these cars with out a major fabrication?

I have R&P steering in my DR. I run S13 crossmember & rack, with a combination of bluebird and z31 steering coloumn and linkages. While it's not necesarilly a hard conversion there is a certain amount of fab work and stuffing around to getting it working right. Also considering you are building a race car, you may have to look at the rules and regs for the category you are gonna be racing in, as I believe modifying crossmembers and what not is a big no no and may leave you in sports sedans where all the big scarey boys play, But I could be wrong I'm not all that up to date these things. All I know is I started looking into IPRA and that is why I couldnt run the DR.

Edited by DR JOSH
DR JOSH Community Regular

DR JOSH

Posted
Posted (edited)
also what is the gearbox of choice for these engines? is there a good strong box that bolts up etc?

RB20 box fits with only the need for 2 holes in the top of the bellhousing to be elongated by around 5mm and the box mount extended by 1". 20 boxes I have seen run around the 230rwkw mark no worries, 20 boxes can be had for around the $550-600 mark. For anything more if it's going to cop a hammering I would be looking towards RB25 box which is fitted up in the same way except you will also need a custom tailshaft, I'm also a little unsure how well they will go fitting in an R30 box tunnel as the RB25 box is physically a much bigger box. This is an expensive option at around $1500 for the box alone but you most probably will never blow a box again.

However my mate recently purchase a RB26 (same internally as 25) box for around half the price and modded it for RWD use which worked out a hell of a lot cheaper.

I'm modding a 20 box for a mates FJ 1600 next week so I will have to take pics and post up a bit oh a how to.

Edited by DR JOSH
FJ20DR30 Community Regular

FJ20DR30

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I'm modding a 20 box for a mates FJ 1600 next week so I will have to take pics and post up a bit oh a how to.

Sounds good man i would be very interested to see all that. is the factory box not up to it?

also im not sure what box i have that came with the car ill take some photos of it so maybe you can help me identify it ok?

FJ20DR30 Community Regular

FJ20DR30

Posted
  • Author
Posted

as for the FJ20 well to start i just like it better so simple some times but secondly i cant go above the cars 2.0ltr original compacity so i was limited to what it could produce. plus i blew up 2 L20ets so i just got over them also the FJ is lighter (not by Much) and more compact helping me to mount it further back in the Chassis helping with the cars balance and allowing me good room for v mounting the radiator, intercooler and oilcooler.

Cheers

Sorry to be attempting to suck your brain dry here Dennis but does this make sense^ i guess i had done my calculations based apon the regulations of my class iv just never heard of anyone using the L20 for a race car and i had heard that the FJ20 is a very strong engine?

i hope you dont mind the questions but i genuinly wish to broaden my knowlege of this car

DR JOSH Community Regular

DR JOSH

Posted
Posted (edited)
Sounds good man i would be very interested to see all that. is the factory box not up to it?

also im not sure what box i have that came with the car ill take some photos of it so maybe you can help me identify it ok?

The factory FJ box will handle the job fine up to a certain point power wise. The number 1 problem I had with my FJ box was syncros in to second gear, it ended it's life not even being able to get it to gear with out double clutching this seems to be the problem with a lot of the DR's I have driven. Where as the RB 20 box runs dual syncros so you should really never have this problem

My mates FJ 1600 stripped third gear running 215rwkw, but it did cop a bit of a hammering at times, but has spent most of it's time out on the track cutting laps. In all honesty I think the RB20 would only be minimally stronger then the FJ jobbie but I'm not 100% sure on that one. Just they are alot more widely available and the syncros are a lot better.

Edited by DR JOSH

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