Lean Through The Mid, Good @ Wot

[epigram]

Couple of problems here I've been trying to sort out. 1st was when I was running my S1R33 all std bar a 3inch mandrel bend exh, Monster FMIC and 10psi. Once I changed plugs to B6esomethingantifoul, set at 0.8, insulated the std coils and made sure they were clean, changed fuel filter and cleaned out idle valve and got rid of the misfire, I noticed it didn't quite run properly at wide open throttle. Accelerate at 1/2, 3/4, 8 tenths and it went well. Full throttle just felt a little off, sometimes. Had a run with a factory supercharged VS Calais and although he got the jump till boost wound up, it was dead even from there. So I did some more reading and put on a Z32 AFM and Tomei AFR. Now WOT is shartloads better but it feels lean to me through the middle and has got nothing really. You can play with the throttle and watch the boost go up to 9-10 but not much happens. Put the full boot in, it kicks back (yeah auto slushboX) and goes. Plus the exhaust tip has cleaned up in the couple of drives I've had since fitting new AFM. I set fuel pressure in the end to 300Kpa @ idle no vac which was about were the AFR came new.

Now I know the simple answer to this is Power FC or similar, or even piggy back SAFC, but at this stage I'm still married and don't have a spare $2000 that wont be missed at present (or for a bit). I've just ordered a genuine 040 and I've changed injectors with some other standards that had been cleaned and tested not long before, supposedly. They did help with some of the prior running problems.

Question is, if I shell out on a SAFC and tune, will this setup work? (Std ECU, Hi flow airfilter in std airbox, Z32AFM, std injectors, Tomei AFR @ 300Kpa idling no vac, bigger FMIC, Bosch 040, 10psi boost) or is there a problem with the Z32AFM I bought. I did some voltage checks and it showed 1.1 @ idle up to 3.something when I gave it a rev in the shed. Was going to hook up some jumper wires into the cabin and see what figures I get on the black top dyno but with it running lean I really don't want to be risking things.

Any help appreciated. cheers

[Guilt-Toy]

There are all kinds of issues here. The most concerning one is the Z32 afm you are running with the stock ecu.

You cannot run one with a stock ecu - they have different resolutions so the ecu will not be running the engine correctly.

You are better off putting a stock AFM back on the car and see how you go from there if you are not upgrading the ECU.

if you can afford a SAFC then that with a stock AFM should get your car running well again.

where are you located? maybe we can suggest you take the car to a performance workshop to get it all sorted out for you.

[mad082]

now i'm guessing that when you say you have a tomei afr, you mean the air fuel gauge. do you have the correct o2 sensor for it or did you just wire it into the existing o2 sensor? if you are using the correct o2 sensor then ok. if you are using the stock one, then take it out and ignore it as it won't be reading accurately at all. if it is the correct sensor then what AFR's is it actually running? light throttle should be round 14 to 15 (although if you have replaced the stock o2 sensor with this one then it will be 10 to 12 all the time), then heavy throttle should be in the 10 to 12 range for a stock ecu.

and yeah, z32 afm with stock ecu, you are lucky it even runs. that is like putting a ps3 game into a dvd player and expecting it to work normally.

my suggestion is to stick the stock afm back in and take it to a dyno and get them to do a few runs and check the afr's.

[epigram]

There are all kinds of issues here. The most concerning one is the Z32 afm you are running with the stock ecu.

You cannot run one with a stock ecu - they have different resolutions so the ecu will not be running the engine correctly.

You are better off putting a stock AFM back on the car and see how you go from there if you are not upgrading the ECU.

if you can afford a SAFC then that with a stock AFM should get your car running well again.

where are you located? maybe we can suggest you take the car to a performance workshop to get it all sorted out for you.

Thanks for the quick reply GT. I did actually read another post from you caining someone else about the stock ecu and z32afm combo the day after I put it on but as it was now on I thought I'd check the AFM voltages and read up a bit more. (genuine Z32AFM little use, now up for sale BTW). I should be looking for 1.1v to about 5.1 volts out of the stocko AFM yeah? and at what load/revs/TP should I be looking for how many volts? I know it should range but a acouple of ball park figures would be sweet.

I'll put the stock AFM back on and do some tests this w/end. If that's all good I'll try the new 040 and see if the top end picks up to the level the Z32 had. Is the stock fuel system good for my mods and 10psi or does it need the 040?

I'm actually just up the Hunter abit BTW

[epigram]

now i'm guessing that when you say you have a tomei afr, you mean the air fuel gauge. do you have the correct o2 sensor for it or did you just wire it into the existing o2 sensor? if you are using the correct o2 sensor then ok. if you are using the stock one, then take it out and ignore it as it won't be reading accurately at all. if it is the correct sensor then what AFR's is it actually running? light throttle should be round 14 to 15 (although if you have replaced the stock o2 sensor with this one then it will be 10 to 12 all the time), then heavy throttle should be in the 10 to 12 range for a stock ecu.

and yeah, z32 afm with stock ecu, you are lucky it even runs. that is like putting a ps3 game into a dvd player and expecting it to work normally.

my suggestion is to stick the stock afm back in and take it to a dyno and get them to do a few runs and check the afr's.

Ah yeah. AFR=adjust fuel reg not air/fuel ratio. Sorry for the confusion. AFR, AFM PS3, TMFA=toomany friggin acronyms, TD=these days

and thanks for the advise on air/fuel gauge. will be bumping that up the shopping list now. o2 sensor is something I also wanted to check with multimeter when I find some numbers.

cheers

[VB-]

I should be looking for 1.1v to about 5.1 volts out of the stocko AFM yeah? and at what load/revs/TP should I be looking for how many volts? I know it should range but a acouple of ball park figures would be sweet.

both afm's will work on the same range, but for a given voltage, the z32 will have more air moving through it, so your fuelling will be up the shit. just change it back, no point testing any voltages or anything like that

[mad082]

Ah yeah. AFR=adjust fuel reg not air/fuel ratio. Sorry for the confusion. AFR, AFM PS3, TMFA=toomany friggin acronyms, TD=these days

and thanks for the advise on air/fuel gauge. will be bumping that up the shopping list now. o2 sensor is something I also wanted to check with multimeter when I find some numbers.

cheers

oh, so a FPR (fuel pressure regulator) hahaha

o2 sensor doesn't alter the fuel settings at high load though. they are only used at low load to get better fuel economy. your car will actually run with it unplugged

[Beer Baron]

this is very easy to fix.

remove the FPR. and replace with standard. you don't need it.

remove the Z32 AFM and replace with standard. the standard ECU works with the standard AFM. you cannot get any safe improvement by just bolting on a Z32 afm. your ecu needs to be re-tuned to suit it. so without a programmable ecu, or chip, or SAFC then forget the Z32 afm.

do not bother buying an air fuel ratio gauge. they are a complete waste of time and money. if you really want to check your airfuel ratios then you need a proper wide band O2 sensor, a boss welded in your exhaust to fit it, and a wide band 02 display. this will cost upwards of $500 and to continue to work correctly you need to carefully use, maintain, and calibrate the sensor. they are easily damaged.

you don't even necessarily need the bosch pump unless there is something wrong with your standard one. it's a simple matter to have your stock pump tested for flow and if it aint broke why fix it?

if you really want to keep the Z32 then get the SAFC and get the car tuned. that way they can check your air fuel ratio is ok, and tune the SAFC so your car runs safely with the Z32 afm.

[epigram]

hey guys,

put the std AFM back on tand ook for a test blast. It definately has a slight surging at the top end as it winds out. Will sit on about 8-9psi and then step to 10-11psi. So I hooked up the multimeter and checked AFM signal volts. 1.1-1.2volts at idle when hot. I then took it for a run with the multi meter in the cabin via a length of speaker cable and watched the multi at full load. It sort of levels out for a bit at 4.8v, then goes all way out to max of 5.1v with the late surge but doesn't hold it very long. I've bypassed the factory boost level stepper and fitted a new fuel filter, fresh panel filter(even tried it without) but still there. That's why I tried the Z32AFM. Weird thing is runs better right up top and when it kicks down a gear at full throttle, only with Z32. I also popped the cover off the std AFM and checked the soldered connectors, all good. So I refitted Z32 AFM to see what it's volt readings are. 1.1volts at idle and maxes at 4.1volts at full load. I wasn't game to hold it very long with Z32 but. Does that std AFM seem faulty to anyone with the info I have given here?

It felt like that surge might be a sticky FPR so I got the Tomei. No difference. Thoughts on a fuel supply problem? My experiences of fuel starvation are top end surging and the new filter did help more than FPR. Hopefully all this may help other people out there. Thanks for any feedback.

BTW......Anyone know where I can get in touch with Toshi. Want to see about a remap seeing as I've got this Z32 and Bosch 040 now. Might as well step it up a notch!

[Guilt-Toy]

pm Toshi and take it to him to re-tune it.

[epigram]

pm Toshi and take it to him to re-tune it.

Tried that. Haven't got the 10 posts to PM yet. Could somebody please send him a PM for me.

Have got incontact with Toshi now. Thanks

Edited June 16, 2009 by epigram