Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys as title suggests im looking to get a turbo upgrade for R34 GTT (tiptronic) but not willing to part with the autobox just yet.

just wanna keep it simple, currently have these installed:

FMIC, turbo back exhaust, pod filter. (considering getting MV automatics shift kit as well).

pardon the begginer as i have done research for a long time on this forum (forced induction thread) for quite awhile but just dont seem to get it thoroughly, just a simple straighforward question, what turbo (e.g garett/hks etc) can i possibly put into the car? or its just not possible for an auto to hold up a bigger turbo.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272085-suggestions-for-upgrade/
Share on other sites

if you have a spare $1800 lying around you can beef up your box to handle 500hp,

Do you know if this price would apply to an r33 auto, im looking at getting rid of the manual and going auto, trying to get around 300rwkw so that box would be perfect.

Do you know if this price would apply to an r33 auto, im looking at getting rid of the manual and going auto, trying to get around 300rwkw so that box would be perfect.

correct

RVO Automatics Dandenong, i am getting a service done there saturday morning

whilst to date we haven't seen someone smash an auto box in a skyline, im sure they aren't rock solid units

the issue when you upgrade everything is the autobox takes more torque and typically harsher changes

if you upgrade the ECU to an aftermarket ECU it assumes the car is manual, so it wont "talk" to the auto box to say hey im about change gears

so it may result in flaring on gearchange and delays / harsh gear changes. this in turn puts lots of stress on the auto box

this is amplified when you put a shift kit on the auto box as well, so be careful

by all means do it, just find out how much its going to cost if you shag the auto box

i mean its like all of us, no one expects to replace their gearbox etc (i dont)

but we're always wary of the auto boxes

whilst to date we haven't seen someone smash an auto box in a skyline, im sure they aren't rock solid units

the issue when you upgrade everything is the autobox takes more torque and typically harsher changes

if you upgrade the ECU to an aftermarket ECU it assumes the car is manual, so it wont "talk" to the auto box to say hey im about change gears

so it may result in flaring on gearchange and delays / harsh gear changes. this in turn puts lots of stress on the auto box

this is amplified when you put a shift kit on the auto box as well, so be careful

by all means do it, just find out how much its going to cost if you shag the auto box

i mean its like all of us, no one expects to replace their gearbox etc (i dont)

but we're always wary of the auto boxes

All good advice Paul but I don't think your standard computer actually does much communicating with your gearbox computer in stock form. What does the engine ECU actually send/recieve from the gbox ecu that an aftermarket, say Powerfc, wont' do? The only thing I can think of is perhaps closed loop running at idle and cruise.

My experience is with the more basic autos but perhaps with the tiptronic stuff it's different?

I know with my extremely basic (but custom) auto trans in the Pulsar the ECU retards timing on gear changes, which is something a PowerFC cannot do. If you have a read Apexi recommend not using a PowerFC in an auto car.

the ECU doesn't exactly speak to the auto ECU but it has logic programming into the mapping so that it knows when the auto box will change gears

this allows the mapping to have retarded ignition timing during gear change.

otherwise without that logic (the auto / gear change logic) the ecu keeps the ignition timing nailed

you can replicate this by using a manual GTST ecu, in an auto skyline.

the ecu just runs along ignition timing normal, and the auto box changes gears.

the end result is the there is no ignition retard on gearchange.

the main difference, is the manual ECU, expects the user will engage the clutch (which means no load on the box) whilst changing gears

this means the load axis drops to 0 and ther3e is no engine load to hurt the box

the apexi powerfc along with most other (in fact all) aftermarket ecus for the skyline are

they are manual ECU's only, that is, they have no knowledge, or care for an automatic gearbox

so in their code and mappings, they dont' cater or work around the auto box

so the timing wont change during gear change. this is the same for any aftermarket ecu you can think of

there is one difference (always is)

an auto powerfc does exist! - but its for toyota only

this is because the auto logic for the toyota is done by a seperate box, whereas nissan is inside the main ECU

so the auto powerfc is able to control the auto box normally and map the gear change stuff etc

there is a lot of logic to auto box control, if you check the manual for the JXZ100 PFC youll see the auto screens, there are HEAPS

literally heaps of settings and pages for auto box control, ie (its pretty complicated)

so - if you change the ECU in an auto skyline, as juliette eluded too, it wont back off timing during gear change

the apexi documentation (and most aftermarket ecu docuemtnation) state for manual use only

for that exact reason - no logic for automatic boxes

mainly because - its lots of code, lots of work, lots of logic, and lots of messing around for a small % of the market - ie; why bother will the effort for a small amount of customers

Vl turbos - are different, they have a mechnical auto box, so they dont need timing back offs, they do something different (not sure what, not sure why, go read calaisturbo to find out)

but the jatco boxes work differently, and can work around the manual only ECU issue (from memory)

the best recommendation, by far for automatic skyline users is

to get a remapped ECU, which retains the standard automatic gearbox logic

be careful with a shift kit, whilst good, and it makes it change quicker

it makes it harsher on the autobox. see if you can find a workshop

who has done some work on auto skylines (or even vl turbos)

they would know LOTS about auto gearboxes, and might even know of some common tricks between the skyline / vl boxes

i was told by a tuner that because i have triptonic gearbox.

if i get a whole new ECU i lose the option of triptonic, but where as a piggy back unit is a better option for triptonics.

as far as i know the gearbox has its own logic. changes when the rev's and speed match up.

e.g: two parrallel lines (RPM/KMPH).... slighty angled towards each other, eventually they meet, and when they do its a gear change. or somthing like that.

just trying to remember what i was told thats all

sounds right, so the best solution, is you keep the stock ecu and piggyback another ECU on top, or remap the stocker

piggybacking another ECU on top is expensive, and a complex exercise ($$$$) in custom work

remap is by far easier, quicker and cheaper

this is a good discussion as i have a r34 gtt thats auto, and have done months of research from reading as many things as i can find about the autobox. but what i found out is that heat and poor maintenance is the big killer and that a shift kit helps pro-long the life of the auto because it puts less stress on the bands and in turn means less heat being made. so now im confused as to whats true. damn the internet and all its info :) .

guys i work at rvo automatics in dande.

if anyone wants any info let me know what you want to know. i'll speak to the boss and reply back.

his been in the game for over 20 yrs, worlds first 1000hp (4L60E, commodore box), and just recently broke

fastest 4 speed auto in aus record (9.80 @ 140m/h), and now going for fastest 6speed auto like next w/e in w.a.

knows his stuff.

alternativly, any one looking for auto work done give me a buzz on 97945004, open tomorrow from 8.30am.

haha only cause i told ryan i'd be in then lol.

p.s i know i shouldn't "advertise". but just fyi i guess

guys i work at rvo automatics in dande.

if anyone wants any info let me know what you want to know. i'll speak to the boss and reply back.

his been in the game for over 20 yrs, worlds first 1000hp (4L60E, commodore box), and just recently broke

fastest 4 speed auto in aus record (9.80 @ 140m/h), and now going for fastest 6speed auto like next w/e in w.a.

knows his stuff.

alternativly, any one looking for auto work done give me a buzz on 97945004, open tomorrow from 8.30am.

haha only cause i told ryan i'd be in then lol.

p.s i know i shouldn't "advertise". but just fyi i guess

owned :action-smiley-069:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the info GTSBoy, legend. If there is no downside i'll likely just get the larger bosch units because why not... I remember hearing stories about people washing their bores with fitment of too large injectors way back when, which i guess has made me shy about it now. But happy to know it shouldn't be an issue. Ozdavroz, the little rb20 is a lot of fun- now that i have a little extra funds and time i am very glad to be tampering with the ol girl again, after so long. More RB20's on the road the better. Cheers, Rowdy
    • ...just a note of warning, you shouldn't drive it about with the TCU in limp mode with only 3rd gear available ~ apart from the fact you end up sheering the ATF at the torque converter interface, the high clutch in these isn't especially the strongest, particularly bolted to the RB25DE mill...which is likely a 4AX01 box with lighter duty high clutch (the RB25DET got the bigger high clutch)...be careful out there...
    • Hoping to do similar mods to my RB20 once I get it running and reliable again
    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
×
×
  • Create New...