Bolt On Turbo

[tdan]

Hey All

I have been searching for about 4 hours now. I think I went through nearly every topic posted on the entire website. Well, that may be a small exageration on my part. I am looking to upgrade/replace the turbo I currently have in my car and I want to know the quickest/easiest way of doing so. Also, the cheapest.

What I want is a turbo that will just bolt straight on to the existing fittings and lines. I have no idea which one will do the job, I'm guessing someone out there will know exactly which one it is.

My car is a 1995 R33 GTS-T.

Please help, I think my turbo is about to die.

Cheers

Tony

[Moodles2]

Depends how cheap you wanna go, Cheap option I guess something from hypergear, unless you want to take a risk on a "ebay special"

[R31Nismoid]

Totally depends on

1. Budget

2. Power aim/use of the car

Cheapest isnt always the best, you must understand and accept this as part of your decision.

Once you do that - follow this

1. Read the RB25 dyno sticky thread.

2. Find turbo's that fit your power goal

3. Search with those turbo ID's

4. You will see costs, problems and so on.

There are many many turbo's to choose from. Cheaper ones generally have poor response with OK peak power.

More expensive options generally have great response and great peak power making a very good overall setup.

Also bear in mind larger turbos lead too... and in some cases REQUIRE the following in order of importance

1. Larger Exhaust/Cat

2. Better ECU to tune/make USE of the turbo (no point upgrading turbo on a stock ECU)

3. Larger AFM

4. Larger injectors

So please take the time to address the above points yourself otherwise no-one is really going to be able to help you.

Overall in my opinion you dont really understand whats involved (refer to above points about other parts), so a simple replacement of the stock turbo with another one would be the best option. If your car is stock now and you want to replace the turbo - you have to spend at LEAST another $2,500 to actually make the upgrade any valuble use.

[tdan]

Overall in my opinion you dont really understand whats involved (refer to above points about other parts), so a simple replacement of the stock turbo with another one would be the best option. If your car is stock now and you want to replace the turbo - you have to spend at LEAST another $2,500 to actually make the upgrade any valuble use.

My apologies, I must have described the whole situation very poorly. All I really want to do is buy a new turbo for my car. I'm not looking for power gains, nor am I looking to lose any power. From the research that I have done, mainly with Garrett Turbos, I have found that they do require for new oil and water lines.

I basically want a new turbo to replace the one that I have. Just one that will bolt straight on with little or no modifications at all.

I hope that makes a bit more sense now.

Cheers

[R31Nismoid]

What mods do you have now though?

And im not sure where you have read that information about Garrett turbos, a large portion of Garrett turbos in a similar frame size are a bolt on affair that use the factory lines. Same as HKS turbos (which are Garretts with a badge and/or minor toying)

[R33Matt]

You can usually pick up a second hand R33 Gts-t turbo in good condition for around $300

[2LV8ETR]

You can usually pick up a second hand R33 Gts-t turbo in good condition for around $300

This will be your best bet for what you are describing.

[wolverine]

what makes you think your turbo is about to die?

[MrStabby]

This will be your best bet for what you are describing.

Yep.

If you wanted to spend more for the sake of reliability, you could get your current turbo rebuilt. Or even by a rooted one and get that rebuilt, so your car isnt off the road for too long.

[tdan]

Hi again

The mods that I currently have are:

3 1/2" cat back exhaust (about to purchase a 3" dump pipe)

Large FMIC

Apexi Pod Filter

Aftermarket Coil Packs

GFB Boost Controller

What makes me think that the turbo is going to die, is the fact that it has been in the car for 14 years now and I think that it is dirty as hell or on the way out. It still manages to boost at around 12PSI though. So I could be wrong.

My other plan was to remove it and give it a massive clean and have it tested to see how bad, or how good, it really is. I was reading the workshop manual that I have and it hints at the point of black soot covering the rear bumper. Apparently it is caused by excessive carbon and sludge build up in the exhaust turbine. Which is why I was thinking of just cleaning it out.

I was thinking about having the current turbo recon'd, but then my missus said to me that I may as well buy a new one.

[wolverine]

if its working then leave it alone. there is no need to do anything.

[2LV8ETR]

What makes me think that the turbo is going to die, is the fact that it has been in the car for 14 years now and I think that it is dirty as hell or on the way out. It still manages to boost at around 12PSI though. So I could be wrong.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

[moobaque]

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Except your talking about a stock rb25 turbo that are prone to disintegrating when boost is above standard (he states he is running at 12psi)

Our stupid turbines are ceramic bonded to steal....

Here are a couple options.

GCG rebuilt with Garrett components (about $2000) chasers motorworks also offer a similar service

HKS GT-RS kit. (about $3500 imported from japan or add another 1k or so if you buy locally)

and thats about where it ends before your looking at new manifold, dump pipe, etc.

Cheers

Camden

[geraus]

Get a hypergear highflow!

[TiTAN]

hypergear highflow for $800 if you are dead set on replacing it though i dont see why you need to if you are happy with the current power.

[R31Nismoid]

I was reading the workshop manual that I have and it hints at the point of black soot covering the rear bumper. Apparently it is caused by excessive carbon and sludge build up in the exhaust turbine. Which is why I was thinking of just cleaning it out.

No, that will be due to the fact you have a stock ECU.

The stock ECU is fuelling up hard under load/boost, and this will be causing the build up on the rear bumper.

The exhaust housing/turbine is over 500 degree's... there wont be excessive build up going on there