Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  Merli said:
Where are the pics of your GC???? :(

Duncy: Would love an X5, but there's no way I'm paying that much for a tow car.

Im living in QLD these days and my Jeep is in Newcastle...im going back for the weekend on the 11th...if you can wait that long. I have generated a bit of interest from several parties just from this thread.

Ive only had a radiator top neck crack on it in the 4 years ive owned it...$260 for a complete new radiator and fitted it myself. Jeep parts are expensive if your a dumbass who doesnt know where and how to buy them cheap.

DCIEVE - I have no place to store them :)

my mx5 sits in garage, the bluebird sits on the street and so does the mrs 323...

We are looking to buy a house and hopefulyl a double garage, so mx5 still in garage, buy dads berlina, and sell 323 and bluebird.

I jsut wish I had the money to do everything, buy a house, buy a nice toe car, have a daily and track car....I think I need to move out of NSW to afford it all :P

Touregs are nice cars to tow with, same as the X5's. I've towed race cars with a Subaru Outback (2.5l), VY Holden Berlina International (Wagon version), Nissan Navara D22 ST-R 3.0TD, Toyota Landcruiser Cab/Chassis 4.0D and a Chrysler Voyager. Of these, the X5 (4.8l V8) was the best, except for fuel economy (30l/100k's) and the Toureg (the V6 diesel version) towed the caravan (not mine!) quite easily, but it had a really bad pitching motion on the springs, that I wasn't sure was car or van related, as I only drove it with the van behind.

The outback coped with the Datsun 1200 and trailer quite easily (about 1 ton all up), same with the Berlina, however, with the STi on the back of the Berlina, I chewed through a brand new set of rear tyres ($700+) on the drive from my place (Yarra Glen) to Philip Island and back (about 250k's) as the rear suspension goes toe out under load. The Navara could cope with the load once under way, but due to the massive torque hole below 3000rpm in the thing, you had to constantly row the gearbox to maintain speed, and slip the clutch massively to get it moving of the line. The Navara's are also very tail happy (esp. in the wet) unless they have a bit of weight in the tray. The Landcruiser absolutely sucked, and struggled to maintain 60kp/h on the road, as well as being so noisy that I needed to wear hearing protection. The Chrysler actually wasn't to bad, considering that its FWD, but it definitely needs load balancers with a heavy trailer on the back.

I'm actually looking at a Ford Transit van as a replacement for the Navara, the one's that I have driven seem to be pretty good.

let me know if you want o look at the V6 Commodore converted Transit.

  blackrex said:
Touregs are nice cars to tow with, same as the X5's. I've towed race cars with a Subaru Outback (2.5l), VY Holden Berlina International (Wagon version), Nissan Navara D22 ST-R 3.0TD, Toyota Landcruiser Cab/Chassis 4.0D and a Chrysler Voyager. Of these, the X5 (4.8l V8) was the best, except for fuel economy (30l/100k's) and the Toureg (the V6 diesel version) towed the caravan (not mine!) quite easily, but it had a really bad pitching motion on the springs, that I wasn't sure was car or van related, as I only drove it with the van behind.

The outback coped with the Datsun 1200 and trailer quite easily (about 1 ton all up), same with the Berlina, however, with the STi on the back of the Berlina, I chewed through a brand new set of rear tyres ($700+) on the drive from my place (Yarra Glen) to Philip Island and back (about 250k's) as the rear suspension goes toe out under load. The Navara could cope with the load once under way, but due to the massive torque hole below 3000rpm in the thing, you had to constantly row the gearbox to maintain speed, and slip the clutch massively to get it moving of the line. The Navara's are also very tail happy (esp. in the wet) unless they have a bit of weight in the tray. The Landcruiser absolutely sucked, and struggled to maintain 60kp/h on the road, as well as being so noisy that I needed to wear hearing protection. The Chrysler actually wasn't to bad, considering that its FWD, but it definitely needs load balancers with a heavy trailer on the back.

I'm actually looking at a Ford Transit van as a replacement for the Navara, the one's that I have driven seem to be pretty good.

  blackrex said:
Berlina, however, with the STi on the back of the Berlina, I chewed through a brand new set of rear tyres ($700+) on the drive from my place (Yarra Glen) to Philip Island and back (about 250k's) as the rear suspension goes toe out under load.

The Holden IRS is bloody horrible for towing. Luckily the Crewman has single axle rear end with leaf springs and tray load of 1.1 tonne. Just needs more torque.

The SS V8 Crewman would probably be a lot better as a tow car.

Looks good with the trailer on the back :ninja:

PICT3904.jpg

Edited by Tektrader69
  Marlin said:
the V10 diesel has had serious engine issues.

Can you elaborate on this? I gather you are talking about the V10 TTDi? Just a question as we have now done over 145km's and nothing has gone wrong to date bar the tailshaft($2,500 ouch!!!). Might as well prepare myself.....parts as you said are not the cheapest.

  BezerkR32 said:
you know it is ilegal to tow load heavier than tow car let alone dangerous, guess thats why it is ilegal.

I am sorry but you are incorrect, it is illegal in NSW to tow anything that is heavier then the maxium rated towing capacity of the vechile that is towing.

In my case it is 2100kg

You will note that i mentioned i have the heavy duty tow pack which includes a higher rated tow ball and replacement suspension, this fixes the tyre wear issues as well as flattening the rear of the car so it does not sag and drag it's arse along the ground. I also have electric brakes which greatly asssits in stopping the vechile but not manditory until after the GVM exceeds 2000kg.

One of the most popular vechiles for towing is actually the Falcon station wagon and favoured by a lot of oldies towing caravans which some of the bigger ones are heavier then what towing a light nissan is. The station wagon has a different suspension set up but runs with the ford 6cyl and gets very good (relative speaking) mileage.

Matt

  Jetwreck said:
Can you elaborate on this? I gather you are talking about the V10 TTDi? Just a question as we have now done over 145km's and nothing has gone wrong to date bar the tailshaft($2,500 ouch!!!). Might as well prepare myself.....parts as you said are not the cheapest.

I'm only regurgitating what a fellow I know said who works in the VW/Audi service dept. He has said they have numerous V10TDi's in for turbo replacement, which apparently is an engine out job, and the turbine needs to be replaced as an assembly (part of the manifold?) and is priced at something ridiculous like over 10k per side....... you know how some things can become exaggerated but I wouldn't be suprised if this was close to the truth. He has also mentioned there had been injection pump issues.

  Marlin said:
I'm only regurgitating what a fellow I know said who works in the VW/Audi service dept. He has said they have numerous V10TDi's in for turbo replacement, which apparently is an engine out job, and the turbine needs to be replaced as an assembly (part of the manifold?) and is priced at something ridiculous like over 10k per side....... you know how some things can become exaggerated but I wouldn't be suprised if this was close to the truth. He has also mentioned there had been injection pump issues.

Yeh I know that one.....the turbo issues were a recall from memory as was ours.....would have liked to have kept the originals as nothing seemed wrong with them at the time. Something for the new buyers I guess..."If your aregoing to purchase as older V10 make sure that the turbos have been done.....or prepair to get bent over :(

  boxheadmr said:
I am sorry but you are incorrect, it is illegal in NSW to tow anything that is heavier then the maxium rated towing capacity of the vechile that is towing.

In my case it is 2100kg

You will note that i mentioned i have the heavy duty tow pack which includes a higher rated tow ball and replacement suspension, this fixes the tyre wear issues as well as flattening the rear of the car so it does not sag and drag it's arse along the ground. I also have electric brakes which greatly asssits in stopping the vechile but not manditory until after the GVM exceeds 2000kg.

One of the most popular vechiles for towing is actually the Falcon station wagon and favoured by a lot of oldies towing caravans which some of the bigger ones are heavier then what towing a light nissan is. The station wagon has a different suspension set up but runs with the ford 6cyl and gets very good (relative speaking) mileage.

Matt

I had the heavy duty tow pack on mine as well, but I still had tyre wear issues when towing. I also used a load balancing system with the car.

The Falcons are popular due to having good low end torque, and a live rear axle mounted with leaf springs, so they do not have to toe/camber change issues that IRS cars tend to have.

^^^ I agree! I thought the discussion was for a tow car in the teens, now we're up into big money Toe-rags :banana:

But anyway, Mark Berry has a new V6 TDi Toureg now, we're towing the 35 to Townsville thursday so we'll find out how good it is :bunny: The specs read good!

Nah... I'd love a Touareg, but too much bling bling for a car that I'll only be spending a few hours in each year...

Still think I'll go for a Jeep GC, much to the dismay of the entire forum :)

Going to go take a look at a couple this weekend.

Not sure if it's been mentioned but what about the old 4Runner's?

My old mans one has been going since he bought it new in 95 with nothing but tyres, pads, and fluid changes. He goes hunting regularly, always tow's behind it and it never misses a beat!

Not as powerful as the bigger boys of course, but it's been a very very reliable car. I'm trying to get him to update, but the only thing that interests him are the diesel Hilux, everything else he reckons is too soft looking :-)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Another thought on this OLD topic: When you paint your bonnet lip, leave a small unpainted back lip/line along the back of the lip, where it rests on the bumper. That way, the line in the back is much more prominent than the gaps in the front/under the lip - and it breaks the hood-to-bumper connection at the "correct" place, when comparing to a GTR. I'm gonna do this with mine this week, so stay tuned for pics!
    • So I'm in the final stages of assembling my single turbo RB30/26 and had a question regarding MAP reference points.  I've seen several recommendations such as tapping the cylinder 2/3 ITB, tapping the intake manifold at cylinder 2/3, or using a point on IAC. First two are doable but require permanently modify part and the third is "out" as I plan to delete the IAC.  All that to say my question is can I used the "bleeder" in the center of the ballance tube as a MAP Reference? I'm running a catch can so I don't need it for the PCV system. My thought process is it "pulls" from all 6 cylinder, and it's between the ITB and the cylinders making it ideal for MAP reference according to what I can find. Thoughts?
    • Some sense has prevailed! What kind of idiot spends money on intake, heads, and cams for a N/A motor in 2025? Lol. What maroons. Source:I am King Maroon.
    • So, cams are not getting installed......yet  Had a good chat with MX5 Mania about intakes, they recommend not to get ITB's, they recommend a plenum style for the NC So, one of these puppies is being ordered, with a larger TB to suit, when it arrives from the US the car will go in for the cams and intake I'm also getting a fancy rear box bit for the air filter box which will suit the new TB size
    • Clamp meter is pointless. Unless you're trying to keep average current under a set value for some weird reason (maybe you undersized your wiring?), then you'll get no useful info. What you're really trying to target is the flow of fuel coming back to the tank. You want some, but not a lot. You also want to make sure fuel pressure remains stable.   So, fuel pressure gauge, and fuel flow gauge. Set it up from that.
×
×
  • Create New...