Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

tongue! That was the word i was looking for. I've been getting mental blanks on basic shit for the past couple of weeks.

Thanks Guys

I had an older hilux a few years back now, around an 04 from memory, and i don't remember the suspension being anywhere near as bad (but it was good for lifting the inside rear wheel on roundabouts). Though I suppose my reference point then was a 32gtst with 8f/6r springs rather than the girlfriends C4...

tongue! That was the word i was looking for. I've been getting mental blanks on basic shit for the past couple of weeks.

Thanks Guys

I had an older hilux a few years back now, around an 04 from memory, and i don't remember the suspension being anywhere near as bad (but it was good for lifting the inside rear wheel on roundabouts). Though I suppose my reference point then was a 32gtst with 8f/6r springs rather than the girlfriends C4...

I agree that the hiluxs are pretty bad. Was going to blacktown to pick up my new 32 last week in the patrol bloody thing blew up id only just flushed the radiator and put some more oil in it when i stopped at the twin servos bloody oil was $35 bucks (diesel) so left it on peats ridge road with me car trailor and rang a mate to take me to gosford hired a new 4x4 3ltr turbo diesel hilux first thing i noticed was shes limited to 4500 rpm towed the patrol up the road and it was allover the place very dangerous left it at mt white and went to pick me 32 up the thing must have no swaybar as it was all over the road on the way home with the 32 in tow felt like it would pick up and drift across the road never again.

Now the patrols getting a 307 chev rammed in between the strut towers

The other thing i've noticed is the tow bar is really low, resulting in a lot of rake on the trailer and also makes it difficult to get my (not very low) cars on to the trailer. I'm thinking about flipping the insert part of the bar to try and gain a bit of height. Does anyone know if it's ok to do or am i going to end up with a snapped hitch in the middle of nowhere?

I recently bought new sunraysia wheels and toyo light truck tyres for my tandem trailer (it had used ford stud wheels and used car tyres on it that were 2yrs old which needed replacing for rego). The result was the trailer sat 2 inches higher because of the light truck tyres. To combat the angle of the trailer I bought an adjustable ball mount from hayman reese for about $150 (#21228) and adjusted it to full height and now it sits level again.

Russman: My '09 VE SSV Ute sits similar to yours (not as bad, but i've had mine lowered with stiffer rear springs too) and thats with just a 550kg car on a 550kg trailer (sitting level). I'm gonna look at getting some different rear shocks or some other setup in the rear. It does tow perfectly though, can safetly do the speed limit and keep up with regular cars (which shocks them because they all pull out to overtake only to find they cant even keep up) and my fuel economy only jumps about 2.5L/100km over regular city driving (6L engine drops to v4 for quite a bit of the trip back to sydney from wakefield which helps the economy).

Still got 4yrs to go on my utes lease so after that I may look at a new Navara as well.

As for using a van to tow, no problems but you really need to put some weight in the back of them when you tow (spare wheels and tools would be ideal) otherwise they feel like the trailer is doing all the steering. They lack power but make up for it in reliability. (I traded my previous tow vehicle, a 2000 hiace with 370,000km on it for my ssv ute - the hiace was great, it just didnt like going up hills with a trailer on it haha)

We haven't had an issue with Hilux's towing, last 2 years used an '05 V6 Petrol 4x4 to tow our rally car around the state and its in the process of being replaced with a '11 Diesel Hilux..

The dual range gearbox comes in quite handy at times too

Draw bar, how the trailer is loaded and how the car is loaded is pretty important, I can't understand people that reverse their car on the trailer so all the weight is over the back of the axles and then complain that its handling like shit!!!

Draw bar, how the trailer is loaded and how the car is loaded is pretty important, I can't understand people that reverse their car on the trailer so all the weight is over the back of the axles and then complain that its handling like shit!!!

It depends on the length of your trailer and the relative car overhang. I always have to reverse my 180 on to get it to ballance correct.

The regulations state that the centre of your axles must be behind the center of the payload area of a trailer (which makes sence to generally ensure you keep some tow ball weight). However if you have a short trailer (as many are to keep weight down - 4m bed or less) and you drive a stripped out F/R race car on to it fowards, by the time you get it far enough fowards that there is minimal rear over-hang, the center of gravity of the car might be well over 1m in front of the center of the trailer axles - buy which time you could have 300kg on the tow ball - thats fine if you have a very H/D tow bar and a car with suspension to match. But a lot of cars these days are only rated to about 100kg ball weight - mine is actually only 85kg even though it has a 2000kg towing capacity.

If I reverse my 180 on to the trailer, and line it up so that there is zero rear overhang I get pretty much exactly the max allowed ball weight down on the towbar.

But yeah, if you haven't done your homework and reverse a car on tying it down 'where-ever', it can be a recipie for disaster.

Edited by samstain

by the time you get it far enough fowards that there is minimal rear over-hang

Who cares how much overhang there is at either end? Drive it onto the trailer so the load is properly balanced, and as long as the car wheels are actually on the trailer (and not within the tyre radius of the edge - just a rule of thumb - nothing too scientific about that) then all is good. The only reason you'd care about rear overhang is if you have fold - up ramps. If that were the case, then having a short trailer bed is not really going to work.

Besides, if you have lots of rear overhang, your race car can conveniently block out the trailer rego plate from those nasty red light cameras - not that I'd ever contemplate such tomfoolery :whistling:

But to echo the sentiments above - yes, balancing the load on the trailer is imperative. The general guide is to have 10% of the trailer weight on the tow ball, as long as it doesn't exceed the allowable down force on the towing vehicle draw bar. 4WD's tend to have a higher rating for this, which is another reason they're better for towing.

Edited by warps

Yep, my JGC is rated at 3,500kg with 350kg ball weight, all with the factory hitch. Ample!

I love it so much, I'm likely ordering the new model soon once they've arrived, it's most reliable and hands down best tow vehicle I've ever owned :)

Lol... my uncle just came over and I asked; is your Patrol a 4.8L? And he was like, nah, 4.5L it is gutless! Might have to let him know how you go with this... the exhaust port almost looks like a perfect square?

Most of the Japanese utes are like that, Toyota used to supply all of their test Hilux's with 500kg's of sandbags in the tray, to "give journalists a real world feel for the vehicles handling" but mainly to hide the stiff rear spring rates and resultant oversteer biased handling caused by not enough weight being over ther rear wheels.

I put a tonne of gravel in the back of it the other day. If "real world feel for the vehicles handling" means softens up the ride nicely at the expense of steering then they have it right....

yes mercury is doing it, Luke is fabricating it all now.

GT3076 I think is the turbo going in.

staying with conservative tune and stock internals for now. maybe 200rwkw? maybe more or less dunno.

drop by sometime this week if you want to see lukes work - its good work!

yes mercury is doing it, Luke is fabricating it all now.

GT3076 I think is the turbo going in.

staying with conservative tune and stock internals for now. maybe 200rwkw? maybe more or less dunno.

drop by sometime this week if you want to see lukes work - its good work!

sorry mate yep just did some more searching and just saw you started a build thread.

I'd love to drop by this build sounds good and sensible ...was told a GT3582R would be for mine but I'm liking the flavour of this one.

I reckon you could be spot on there at 200rw approx with a gt3076.

subscribed!

  • 2 weeks later...

6 acres with a big barn shed here merli if you need to leave your toy somewhere :rofl:

2000 Grand Cherokee: 1837kg, 4.7L, V8, 162kw, 390nm, petrol.

2002 Grand Cherokee: 1776kg, 4L, I6, 140kw, 295nm, petrol.

2003 Nissan Patrol: 2440kg, 4.1L, I6, 114kw, 360nm, turbo diesel.

2005 Toyota Hilux Ute: 1490kg, 4L, V6, 175kw, 343nm, petrol.

Lighter, newer, more power, more storage, most reliable. I know which i'd have at the top of my list :D

I know its an older topic but why no mention of the:

:worship: Nissan Patrol: 2375kg, 4.8L, I6, 180kw, 400Nm, petrol (but can run on gas) 3500kg towing :rofl: and bigger drive line then all 4 of the above mentioned cars and far stronger (diff, axles, transfer case, brakes, etc). As far as fuel economy goes, on petrol its like any other 180kw vehicle but on gas mine was fully loaded and towed a caravan from south of Sydney to Maroochydore (1200km) at Christmas cost me $215 and still had 3/4 tank of gas. The car was on cruise control most of the way and had no problems with hills etc. only problem was slower traffic...lol I could of got even better fuel economy out of it if I took off my 35" tyres, the big lift kit, winch with steel cable....makes it like a block of flats coming down the road, not exactly aero dynamic but goes everywhere I ask it to even when towing the van... :rolleyes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, thumbsup from me. The distant shot of the bay just looks same-same as before.
    • Dad had a court case drag out with them from 1998 to 2004. He was in a not at fault accident, NRMA were the ones who covered the other person. They tried to blame his neck injuries on the fact he'd had an injury in 1981 on his extreme lower back where he slipped a single disc right near the bottom. Had been all cleared from that injury for years. This accident destroyed his shoulder, and f**ked a heap of discs in his neck, and he still has major problems with it to this day. Sarah's sister while on her L plates had a small Suzuki Alto, she had stopped to give way to an ambulance, and someone changed lanes behind her because there lane was also slowing, and rear ended her at 80km/h. (She had been stopped for a few seconds already too!). Car was completely f**kED. NRMA sent the vehicle around to 3 different workshops as they kept claiming "We believe it can be repaired, and not written off, we just need to find the correct workshop". It took 3 months, and a lot of arguing before they'd concede and wrote it and paid out. About two years later her sister had a Lancer, someone pulled out of a stop sign without stopping (in an 80 zone). Her sister swerved, hit the front of the other persons car (Instead of dead t-boning the drivers door), which ramped her Lancer, and made it roll multiple times down the road. It hit every panel on the way through. Her sister had slid her self out of the car, and remembers the ambos walking to the accident (They'd been sitting at a set of lights just down the road and witnessed it) and they were saying "Well, this ones going to be a fatality, no way you can walk away from that". Well, she did. And then NRMA sent two assessors out to look at the car, both of which wrote it off. They tried to send another assessor out, except a HUGE uproar was raised, and they FINALLY paid it out. That was on a car, that had damage to EVERY panel, you could see from 100m away the whole car was also twisted, roof bowed etc. Nah, we'll try get out of needing to payout on a $10,000 car... Her sister ended up with major shoulder reconstructive surgery being required, and was permanently limited in her ability to do her job as a nurse after that, as she can't (And was told before surgery too this would be guaranteed to happen) regain full strength in that shoulder. However, there was no choice to not have it, as she could barely use her arm, which was her dominant one, and was in near constant major pain. (And she's the type of person that would try and walk off a broken leg!) NRMA did the biggest run around on the personal injury side too for about 18 months, even to the point of trying to put 100% blame of the accident on Sarah's sister, even though the other driver admitted she didn't look, and didn't stop, and was charged by the police. Sarah used to have a Barina insured with them. It was a policy setup, paid all 12 months in advance. At the end of the 12 months, Sarah was living with me, I reviewed the renewal, it clearly stated "If you do nothing, your policy will cease on XYZ date". We did nothing, as we moved her insurance in with all of mine and I was with Shannons. We find out 10 months later, NRMA decided, because he DAD had a car insurance policy at the same address as what Sarah's mailing address was (Garaged address had been changed), that they'd put Sarah's (What should have been non existent policy) onto her Dad's month to month charges on his credit card. We had to jump through hoops, to get a refund. They didn't care that we actually found the letter that said "If you do nothing, your policy will cease" they made us prove we had NON COMPULSORY insurance else where before they'd issue the refund, and after they agreed to the refund, it still took another 6 weeks and 3 more phone calls for them to actually process it. They also had two insurance claims from storm damage, and they were an absolute cluster to get resolved as well (one vehicle, one house). Some how, up until about 3 years ago, her parents were still loyal to NRMA too, and we were like "How the hell are you so loyal to staying with them, when other places are so much cheaper, and they've f**ked you over every time you've ever had to make a claim?"
    • I got the four AN10 fitting welded up to the cam covers and started up making the head to sump breather/drain lines. The front passenger side cover I used a 45 up top and a 90 at the bottom into the stock VCT head drain spot (3/4" BPST to AN10 adapter) thats unused on the RB25DET NEO with some speedflow flame shield to protect it from the manifolds heat.   back passenger side was a 90 up top with some flame shield and 45 at the sump end. The rear drivers is 45 at both ends   the front drivers fitting is capped off for now but ready to go if i want to try moving the breathers around. I was told by the fabricator to leave all the welds raw for now to make sure there are no pin hole leaks. A lot of cleaning up, re bundling looms and degreasing to go as well as final assembly on the cam cover baffles. The first real test will be 28th March at a Circuit event. added complexity and more spots for leaks but overall looks relatively neat imo
    • Yeah i think the dash needs to come out. To get the loom or maybe just climate control and radio cluster. My mirrors are done i think the motors don’t work so well after flood haha i need the ac fan, you said you wanted to keep it for your 31 and interior loom not including boot. The wiper motor. I’m not sure how good the window surrounds are on the exterior on the pintara.  I will message you to get your bank details shortly 
    • Just another barrier put up to stop cars being modified. When we're all driving Chinese sewing machines, you won't want to modify it anyway, and you'll likely already have slashed your wrists and be locked up in a padded room for your own protection.
×
×
  • Create New...