Jump to content
SAU Community

Good Tow Cars?


Recommended Posts

XR6 Turbo engine and box/loom are pretty cheap. Chuck it on gas and should still be a decent enough thing economy wise...sound better too. This animal even has blinds. Is it wrong to want your first car again 18 years later?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finally towed with my 4.8 patrol.

Must say it was super impressive. The car is big enough that the trailer had absolutely no effect on the car whatsoever, apart from the obvious lack of pace up hills.

Didn't make the car sway or in any way shape or form feel uncomfortable, brakes were good. Towed easily up to 120lm/h with little throttle.

photo1349937694.jpg

Edited by Granthem
Link to comment
Share on other sites

XR6 Turbo engine and box/loom are pretty cheap. Chuck it on gas and should still be a decent enough thing economy wise...sound better too. This animal even has blinds. Is it wrong to want your first car again 18 years later?

I know mate, and I too have a soft spot for old Vals. But, that's cheap enough to buy just to enjoy it as is as a "creeper". To turn it into even a half capable tow car will be a 30k+ experience. Not just an engine/box, but everything. From brakes, to diff, to body repairs and strengthening. 60's Valiants weren't ever designed with the stresses of towing 2,000kg with a grunty modern engine pegging it down the road.

So, I maintain, stop it. (With all due respect) :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

XR6 Turbo engine and box/loom are pretty cheap. Chuck it on gas and should still be a decent enough thing economy wise...sound better too. This animal even has blinds. Is it wrong to want your first car again 18 years later?

No don't. Just don't.

I just towed with my XR6T... Too much strain on the gearbox. Don't do it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know mate, and I too have a soft spot for old Vals. But, that's cheap enough to buy just to enjoy it as is as a "creeper". To turn it into even a half capable tow car will be a 30k+ experience. Not just an engine/box, but everything. From brakes, to diff, to body repairs and strengthening. 60's Valiants weren't ever designed with the stresses of towing 2,000kg with a grunty modern engine pegging it down the road.

So, I maintain, stop it. (With all due respect) :)

Man, my old val had a rebuilt 245, box and diff with nothing special in the brakes department it towed 32' boats, Chev Impalas, RX3s :) I bought it off my mechanic that didnt want to tow with his Calais so this was the workhorse with mechanicals that he rebuilt. That's why it was a good buy. It certainly didnt tow like a landcruiser but it did the job :) Will have to wait and see how tidy this thing is this weekend

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Back in the days of the Sahara Forrest towing a 32' boat with a Valiant may have been more acceptable. But so were flares and wicked side burns.

Upon refelction.... yeah, do it! Flares and side burns are cool, 'specially ginger side burns....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You guys bring back memories. Back in the day we used to tow our ski boat to Eppalock with a VE slant six station wagon. Prob one of the best, most honest cars I've owned/ driven. Had to put it down after smoke started pouring through the steering wheel, still got us home though towing the boat till the end.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Go the tow Val, towing is not rocket science, you just have to be aware of what is going on and adjust accordingly. Any dumbo can tow with a Landcruiser, brute force may be foolproof but it is not essential.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^^^^ I know. I once towed a 23' Sharkcat on a tri-axle trailer (no brakes whatesoever) witha AE86 twin cam Corolla Seca.

That proves that anything CAN be done, if you're careful enough (yes, I'm still breathing!), but, in today's litegeous society, you might not get away with the same level of bravado.

Truthfully, why some of you even bother wasting precious typing with "can I" type question is a total loss to me...... do what you want. Darwin will sort it ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

'Can I' questions are seekers of approval, if someone says 'yes' then you feel a whole lot better when thinking of doing something dodgy :yes: BTW, can I....... :devil:

Edited by 260DET
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some of the 4WD hire mobs have tow bars fitted to the cars. Try someone that hires mine spec vehicles - they usually have tow bars fittes.

I think you normally pay around $120-150 a day for a mine spec vehicle (usually a Prado / Hilux or Landcruiser). Pricey, but still cheaper than having to buy one, and you travel in relatively modern comfort.

Quick google search turned up this mob.

Places like Mackay or Newcastle will have an abundance of mine spec hire places, but Brisbane might be a bit light on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Done about 30k in the q7 now(half towing) still can confirm the armchair on wheels is awesome

Fatz, what sort of pin setup are you running on your trailer?

Think I need my reprogrammmed, it keeps telling me my tail lights on the trailer are blown, despite brake lights and indicators working...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness update time have had great fun and learnt so much already so far with this project. I started off making both the ignition and injector sub harnesses in the hope any mistakes i made here aren't as hard to undo and learn from as the main harness.  A cool comparison of the old harness using presumably TXL wire and the new which is using Tezel. Also opted to use DTM plugs to keep the whole setup as neat and tidy as possible and tucked the wiring under the coil bracket to try and keep it all from sticking out too much. Although the injector harness, I'm not overly happy with as I'm still using the rubber boots that are supplied with the type of plugs it just looks ugly and sticks out like a sore thumb with the white identifiers so a slight redesign may be done.   Then it was main harness time and most importantly trying to route it nice and away from the heat it will use the OEM heater hose routing which is no longer present to keep the harness up high and secure. it's amazing how much smaller this harness is able to be compared to the old one. plugged everything into the emtron and with the help of the tuner again attempted to start it up and instantly fired up and running smoothly on all 6 which was a big shock to myself. So still some routing and adjusting to be done for the final fit up and installing a knock sensor harness plug which is in the post all has gone surprisingly well.     The old harness for shits and giggles.
    • They do that at random every now and then, with almost no detectable cause. Mine has done it a couple of times (over 25 years!!). Never worked out why.
    • I don't post on here and have been lurking for some time now. Many of the topics have helped me out more times than i can count. I was racing yesterday (11/9) and blew a front right CV shaft. I have spares so I popped a new one in. A thread i read previously said to check the engine mounts if you blow a front CV. Upon inspection, the front right mount was completely separated from the upper plate. This discovery saved me time and money, because i would have blown another CV if i went back out. Just wanted to thank you guys and wish everyone luck with with their builds. (Now if we could only come up with a solution for my power steering belt flying off after hitting the rev limiter, lol)
    • Either way he still need those style of spacer to go into the manifold because the photo he currently has is not going to work 
    • You can just get the injector bosses, which allows top feeds to fit. He can use the same injectors without issue, like these (another option): https://rocketindustries.com.au/af59-2210-rb25-fuel-injector-inserts     The Racework ones look a bit better: https://www.nzefi.com/product/raceworks-lower-injector-mounting-boss-kit-for-r33-rb25det-s14-s15-sr20det/   You could also just get a similar kit like the Radium one by Plazmaman: https://plazmaman.com/product/nissan-rb25det-r33-billet-fuel-rail/?srsltid=AfmBOoogfYq49X0fu2Wdbf8yOf6zt9egyPAif_gn3Qr3G8hzAphhTgOkO70  
×
×
  • Create New...