Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Turbo Idling

azzafreddy
 Share

Recommended Posts

azzafreddy Community Regular

azzafreddy

Posted
Posted

i recently bought an r33, rb25det, its been sitting for 6-8 months doing nothing before i bought it and i still cant drive it yet as it is unregistered, on start up there is generally allot of smoke but after i drive it the smoke tends to dissapear (this could be because i live in the coldest part of australia). when im in 1st gear my car runs like gold but my main concern is what happens when im anywhere within 2nd and 4th gear, the car like gets to 3000-3500 revs then it will just idle (wont get any faster even tho i push the excelerator down further) if i excelerate really slow it works but whats the point of having a turbo charger car if thats the case... im not sure if the smoke could have something to do with this maybe there is water in the system? any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272169-r33-turbo-idling/
Share on other sites
White GTS-T Mentor

White GTS-T

Posted
Posted

All the symptoms your describe point to the air flow meter, except that fact that it runs fine in 1st gear, that is a little puzzling. Usually when the computer isn't getting the air flow meter signal, it will start and idle but the revs will hunt up and down and black smoke, un-burnt fuel, will pour out the exhaust. Because the computer doesn't know how much air it’s taking in, it goes into a default fuel map and absolutely pours the fuel in, and to be safe the engine won’t rev past 2500rpm.

Firstly make sure the air flow meter is plugged in. It's located in the intake piping that goes to the turbo, just after the air box or pod filter if you have one.

If it is plugged in, and your game, you could try to disassemble it. Sometimes there can be a dry solder on one of the pins. Failing that you could try to get your car on a 'scan tool' at your local mechanics or auto elec. But the best option would be to try and get yourself a second hand airflow meter, that is the same colour and from the same model engine as yours, off of these forums for around $50-$100 and see how that goes.

The air flow meter looks like this. http://www.rhdjapan.com/images/product/117...ormal/Image.jpg Hope that helps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      Cleaning my wheels 😍

      By PranK · Posted

      A little follow up here on the ceramic coating.  We've had storms galore here and I've done a few ks, enough to gross them up  Consensus is that they didn't get as dirty as usual, the coating definitely repelled a little of the dirt and I think they kinda snowball. They get a little dirty and then they get dirty faster which makes sense. Cleaning them regularly would allow them to protect better.  Cleaning was a breeze. I tried first to just hose them off which, unsurprisingly, did nothing. But, making the wheels wet and then just wiping them over with a used but clean microfibre cloth was all that was required. I didn't need any cleaner at all, just water and a cloth. The wheels look amazing again.
    • PranK
      My BMW 335i

      By PranK · Posted

      Gave her a nice wash today and took extra time to clean off the tree sap and tar and crap. We have a usable garage now so she'll stay cleaner longer. Took a few snaps in some nice light afterwards.   
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, solid mount Z1 diff brace is in, pretty straightforward, it picks up 3 diff hat bolts and ties them to 2 support bolts on the subframe. Pretty sure someone else on here said they had reduced axle tramp with this but mine was already pretty good for smooth wheelspin, and still is....will see you this goes over time and whether I end up with a broken rear diff hat
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Ah yes, but the part in my hand was actually painted and fitted by me! I knew any front lip was likely to be sacrificial but I've had to fix it twice already... by the time I buy a fibreglass fixing kit, sort out sandpaper blocks, buy some fibreglass filler, body bog, spend the time and effort for a 'Greg' result... a new one being $290 seems like it's the better way to go and spray that with bedliner/raptor coat and we're all pretty again.. Would have preferred it last more than a month though. Them's the breaks I suppose.
    • MBS206
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I find it funny that the USA is finding out all this really really weird stuff, and people from the USA are coming here treating it like gospel, yet, all the info on solving those issues is here on these forums for the last 15 odd years... Also, I know how much heat it takes to ignite the hood lining of an R33 skyline. I worked it out myself... It also took a LOT of time, and heat for it to do it... Big single, and I needed to drive the car, so retarded the timing off to "protect it". Yeah, that was a bad move for cruising on a freeway with only 15 degrees of timing on it. That was a lesson I learned around 2009. So that's over 15 odd years ago. Aligning water and oil, that's identical for any turbo engine, it's not Japanese specific. If a shop doesn't know how to make sure the core is rotated the right way, then they shouldn't be touching any turbo engine. That's not a matter of "We haven't had Skylines for that long here"...
×
×
  • Create New...