Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have finally managed to track one of these real Gt3076R's down 700382-12 or 700382-5012

For peoples reference

GCG $2195 available around the 9th June

MTQ qld $2066 available around August

Slide $1775 in stock but is not the anti surge compressor inlet. (Not the real gt3076)

Capa $1375 with no rear housing. No stock.

Rear IW .82 housing ATP delivered $620 or Garret Aust for $680-780

Another Brisbane supplier who I have order thru. Getting assemble tomorrow $1800

Once they have supplied me the correct turbo I will let you know who they are.

They have great pricing online compared to others.

All plus actuator and bracket $150-180.

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

How confusing.

Is it worth kicking up a stink for the correct spec 3076 with port shrouded cover? Or not worth my trouble?

Check out ATPturbo.com home page , scroll right down and look at the GT3076R-WG

0.70 comp 52 Trim 0.86 rear

You may have this configuration, sounds like a pretty damn good street turbo. Quick spool 500 hp .

Check out ATPturbo.com home page , scroll right down and look at the GT3076R-WG

0.70 comp 52 Trim 0.86 rear

You may have this configuration, sounds like a pretty damn good street turbo. Quick spool 500 hp .

That one looks like it has the T2 rear.

fkn confusing shit!

That looks like it though, except I don't have that rear housing...

GT3076R-WG_top.jpg

I have this rear housing

internally_wastegated.jpg

It seems to me the only differences are the 7 T04S blades instead of the 6, and no ported front...

Also, ID tag says 700177-5018

And a simple Google search of "Garrett 700177-5018" lead to this link http://www.turbofast.com.au/GTseries.html which indicates it is a GT30 family turbocharger that uses a TO4S compressor (7 blades). That makes it a GT3076R

There's really no science to those searches and you'd have found out long ago what your specs actually are.

All that aside, do you actually have it fitted and running, and if so what do you think about it? Those specs support same/similar flow capacity as the 6 bladed GT3037R so I'm interested to hear how it goes in service.

Hi people. Just a question to all you guys that have done this upgrade. What is generally used on the intake side of things as far as connecting the standard pipe to the turbo. Is some sort of fabrication required or is there an actual correct size intake pipe that can be purchased. Im asking because i've generally not seen it mentioned when people post about these upgrades. All the people i've asked dont know? If there is a correct pipe for this application where should i purchase from and rough estimations on price would be very helpful. Thank's guy's ;)

Regardless of what specs state the T04S 7 blade GT3076r is a crappy thing. The -12 is what you want; if you can't then its either the 3071r or the 3082r.

The GT3071's tend to make power easier than them. :S

Edited by SLAPS
And a simple Google search of "Garrett 700177-5018" lead to this link http://www.turbofast.com.au/GTseries.html which indicates it is a GT30 family turbocharger that uses a TO4S compressor (7 blades). That makes it a GT3076R

There's really no science to those searches and you'd have found out long ago what your specs actually are.

All that aside, do you actually have it fitted and running, and if so what do you think about it? Those specs support same/similar flow capacity as the 6 bladed GT3037R so I'm interested to hear how it goes in service.

Yeah me too Doof..

It seems, within the posts, heaps of blokes didn't and still don't even know if they have the TO4S Comp cover and 7 blade wheel instead of the genuine Garrett GT3076R.

Hey, if it's a good package, then tell us.

Please , post your results ASAP, we gotta keep this thread alive, and kicking.

If you ask me, spending $2K plus on a turbo, and getting something else, it's a blatent rip off.

Imagine if you walked into Hugo Boss for a leather jacket and found out it was made in Bali.

Same thing here man.

  • 1 month later...

This is a good example of why Garrets and HKS's turbo description systems fall down , the figures given are not always exacting probably in the interests of simplicity .

Specific to the GT3037 and GT3076R turbo group .

Firstly to HKS , in long figure form it probably should have been called GT30GT37 because what they mean is a GT30 turbine with a GT37 compressor , the only real differences in the HKS marketed GT3037's is the compressor trim and since they are all GT37 compressors the same handle applies .

The Garrett system is slightly different because their terminology - GT3076R - means GT30 turbine with 76mm OD compressor .

If all they used was "76"mm OD GT37 compressor wheels there wouldn't be a problem but they don't do they ...

For reasons known best to themselves they market "GT3076R's" with an earlier tech T series compressor - the one with the higher blade count ie 7/7 rather than 6/6 . Full height blades/splitter blades .

What it comes down to in the end is the part numbers on the turbos ID tag . Mostly but not always they have a cartridge or CHRA number and for a GT30 turbine based ball bearing one it will be 700177 series . The prefix or dash (- xxxx) after the 700177 tells you precisely the compressor wheel options and any mods to the turbine itself ie cropping or grinding down from 60mm to 56.6 .

700177-7 or -5007 is the CHRA number for the real or all GT wheel spec GT3037/GT3076R in 56 comp trim .

Basically if it doesn't say -5 or -6 or -7 (5005 5006 5007) it hasn't got the GT37 compressor on it .

If you wants what I call the real GT3037 or GT3076R then it has to have a GT series compressor to be a matching set with the GT series turbine .

I look at it like this , GT compressor for GT turbine and T series compressor for T series turbine . Left shoe for left foot and so on .

At the end of the day the only thing that's significantly different between a GT3037S 56T and a real GT3076R is the turbine housing , a HKS one on the 3037 and a Garrett one on the 3076R .

True the HKS has the bell mouthed insert in the comp cover but I think that's of little consequence unless you are running these turbos to the absolute limit and getting every last 1% out of them - with the largest proper respective turbine housing available .

Cheers A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have always resisted the urge to go silly. 8" wide wheels and street friendly spring rates? Check. (Let's not talk about the steadily increasing spread of spherical joints across my suspension!!) Stock turbo, run at 12 psi? Check. Lasted for ?10 years before it died. Highflow put on rather than seizing the opportunity to go G45. You don't need 300 rwkW, let alone the more massive numbers that seem to be essential these days, to have a car that is already way too powerful and fast for a streeter. ~250rwkW is fine. I've never exceeded 200, although I will sneak up above it if and when I manage to get my finger out and do what needs to be done to use the highflow's capacity. You don't need $10k worth of CF bits glued onto the outside. You don't need razor sharp ankle cutting front splitters. You don't need the car to be 2" off the ground. You don't need flawless paint, mirror finished wheels, brand new indicator lenses, etc etc. All these things just make the car impractical and will cause you pain when they get damaged, which is inevitable for a street car. A few nice additions are good. Good seats are good. A nice stereo is good. A/C is good! (46° on the road yesterday and my A/C is degassed again. Was moderately traumatic driving home!) The main reason I stick with a mildly modified old Skyline is that I have had it for  >25 years, the mods are the rolling result of 25 years of things dying and being upgraded opportunistically, coupled with a few "just 'coz" ones. And I hate modern almost all cars. If I was a young buck starting out now.... I wouldn't bother. Cars have a few years left where there is any possibility of interest or fun. Thereafter there will be no such thing allowed or possible. Any time, money and effort spent now on a project would just be a waste.
    • Let's be wary though, if cranking is so far off, what else isn't set right? Are the dead times set right, voltage compensation etc?   It definitely sounds like it's cranking fuel issues, and holding flat to the floor is shutting them down, but I'm with Duncan that if nothing was changed in the ECU at all, and then this started, I'd be more thinking a leaking injector.   Do as Duncan said, drop the oil and make sure it's not full of fuel.
    • It actually means give it less throttle.
    • Yeah if the goal is to drive something then modifying a car is a bad idea.
    • Wowee! She looks like a major handful out there Pete!
×
×
  • Create New...