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Just A Teaser Of Whats Coming Soon For Dori34

dori34
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WYTSKY

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From the way I understand it, you want to get the gas out of the engine quickly. Too small a turbo and it will become a restriction to flow. Just like say an old factory cat converter in a high powered car, except that after the manifold, the turbo is the first place hot air ends up after it leaves the engine.

I would imagine that the front/dump pipe should be a size that allows the air to flow and scavenge optimally. Too big and you reduce the efficiency of the exhaust system. Would I be right in my thinking by saying that changing to a larger front/dump pipe but not touching the turbo would be like fitting a larger catback system, but not changing a restrictive cat? If a front and dump is able to flow enough for the given amount of power (lets say 3" for the average N/A+t), but the turbo isn't able to pass through the exhaust gasses quickly, then the restriction isn't the front/dump and changing to a larger front/dump isn't going to make much of a difference.

The goal would be to get the exhaust gasses out of the engine and out of the turbo quickly, therefore making power and more of it, efficiently, and lowering the time that hot air stays in the engine and turbo, therefore reducing chances of detonation.

Please correct me if I'm wrong

everything looks right to me, but I just thought that was funny :P

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MissR34 Grand Master

MissR34

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The biggest issue is if you use the stock ECU and a piggy-back, counter-tuning the stock timing is a little time consuming.

If you keep the compression high, the best thing to do is get a larger than stock sized turbo if you want to run pressure over 9psi, flowing the exhaust gasses out as quick as possible is better to stave of detonation. I've seen T04E's on these engines spool like stock from the higher energy combustion that you get from high-comp.

The fitment is pretty easy, can be done at home over a weekend with no real dramas.

well i was thinking about maybe doing this one day.

i have a power fc (gtt) that i running currently in the 34 and i already have the stock gtt injectors. i was just thinking i could run a stock r34 turbo, and to help lower compression a bit put in a 2mm head gasket

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Hypergear TR43 - type of turbo being used?

15psi on MS-IBC, - whats a ms-ibc?

Nismo 740 injectors, - necessary for 15psi tho?

yes the turbo im currently using, but look out.. in the future am having SOME sort of plans to look at something along the lines of a 3076r.... but on a lowish boost.

ms-ibc - model of gizmo electronic boost controller, the 2nd series ( in black) does a really good job, brought boost reponse up by a couple hundred rpm even more and holds well)

its pretty much 15psi from 3,000 up :)

the price I paid for the injectors,basiclly it was cheaper then second hand s15 injectors... u'd be stupid not to buy them for that price and have the car ready for forging in the future....

and N-DAWG - live life on the CrAzY side hey ;) btw, got the kw's up to 240.4 now, but it wasn't going to be as reliable, so happy at 230 for now....

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N-DAWG Mentor

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Adam: Yeah my bank balance is still playing catch up amongst other expenses :) But my next plans are for a stage 2 shift kit with trans cooler, then the Gizzmo is looking like my choice of EBC. So far I've read nothing but good things about the Gizzmo and the price of them is great too.

I doubt I'll fit a new turbo into my budget in the near future, nor the injectors and other supporting mods to make the most of it. Everything one step at a time hey. What was unreliable at 240.4? What did you do to achieve that?

Cara: he's running an RB25DE with stock internals. Goes to show how strong the N/A RB's really are. With an N/A+t rather than using low compression and high boost to make power, low boost is used with the high compression to make power. Less boost is needed to achieve the equivalent power levels on a low CR DET motor. As a result the turbo starts spooling a lot earlier resulting in little to no lag, obviously variable upon what sort of turbo and boost is used amongst other things.

The pistons in an RB25DE are different to those of an RB25DET, and not just the CR Ratio. Someone else touched on this in another thread some time back, but it was to do with the material that the pistons were made of. Lowering the compression through the gasket will allow you to run more boost yes, but you'll more or less be creating a DET in terms of engine response and the way the car drives, but still having DE internals. Not to mention cost of a new gasket and labour, the fact that you're still running the same internals makes it hardly worth it really, and it more or less defeats the purpose of an N/A+t. A couple of tuners I spoke to advised against the gasket method to lower compression.

In all, running a 10:1 CR with moderate boost is a cost effective way to get more power out of an N/A engine without swapping the engine, ideal for those who have already gone so far with the rest of the car. It's also great fun too as boost comes on nice and early, which in turn makes for a good responsive daily driver. How far you push the boost dial is personal preference really. If you're prepared to rebuild in the near future, go nuts! If not then 7-10 PSI seems optimal for a longer life.

You mentioned that you're considering doing a bolt on conversion? You've already got the 3" exhaust, GTT Injectors, PowerFC, pretty sure you mentioned a Walbro pump in a thread somewhere, so really you're half way there. All you really need is to change the manifold, bolt on a turbo, throw on a FMIC, front and dump pipe, other misc bits like piping and BOV... and get it tuned! Selling old extractors wouldn't be too hard, there's already a number of people lining up to buy a set.

Mentioned before in previous threads, but worth noting again, Tiger White runs a RB25DE+t set up in his Silvia, and that car is used for drifting at competition level.

Edited by N-DAWG
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WYTSKY

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hey man, your plans still sound good. while I could have bought myself a brand new gt3076r that id been saving for, some nice looking meisters came along, and I figured i need to put a bit of cash into cosmetics as well :D theres nothing wrong with the power u have now... quite a comfortable mix of power and looks for the street.

and yeh, the ms-ibc was recommended to me by numerous people. but make sure u get the 2nd series in black... the original ones ( in silver) couldnt hold boost very well or something like that.... basiclly better to spend 50 bucks more and get the series 2.

to get 240.4 we added in a litle more timing, hence some slight detonation, and while it probably would have been fine during the colder months, it wouldnt have been as reliable in summer, etc... so for 10kws diff and a little piece of mind it was an easy choice....

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dori34 Grand Master

dori34

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well i was thinking about maybe doing this one day.

i have a power fc (gtt) that i running currently in the 34 and i already have the stock gtt injectors. i was just thinking i could run a stock r34 turbo, and to help lower compression a bit put in a 2mm head gasket

Turbo is the best way cara :(

cost wise & power gain wise.

this is just the beginning, i can definately say that det forged piston & rods OR RB30 bottom end will be coming in the near future for the car.

we'll see how the DE bottom end holds up for now :banana:

Wytsky, whats next for you mate?

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WYTSKY

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Turbo is the best way cara :P

cost wise & power gain wise.

this is just the beginning, i can definately say that det forged piston & rods OR RB30 bottom end will be coming in the near future for the car.

we'll see how the DE bottom end holds up for now :laugh:

Wytsky, whats next for you mate?

well, as everything is now done in terms of supporting mods... a bigger turbo will be next, on low boost, then there is hopefully forging + boost up! :P

hehe, think we both are going to head in the same direction ;)

oh yeh, got these puppies last night :geek: think she needs a lil bit of a lower now hey...

post-36975-1244177642_thumb.jpg

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WYTSKY

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i just like to be able to park over curbs tho... im about 5mm off the height of a standard curb atm, due to the factory bodykit... but she looks like ships ahoy...so will have to do something about that!

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N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

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haha so true! I just clear the kerb at my parking at work, and have enough clearance for the ones in the shopping car parks. It's another reason why I'm not in a hurry to fit an aftermarket front bar, I like having lowered suspension that doesn't compromise daily driving :) Car looks mint Adam, doesn't scream out look at me and get "unwanted" attention, but has a nice clean sleeperish stealth look about it and maintains the nice factory lines ;) Would look good cosmetically if it was dropped a bit, but function over form as I always say :blink:

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haha so true! I just clear the kerb at my parking at work, and have enough clearance for the ones in the shopping car parks. It's another reason why I'm not in a hurry to fit an aftermarket front bar, I like having lowered suspension that doesn't compromise daily driving :) Car looks mint Adam, doesn't scream out look at me and get "unwanted" attention, but has a nice clean sleeperish stealth look about it and maintains the nice factory lines :down: Would look good cosmetically if it was dropped a bit, but function over form as I always say :huh:

cheers bud, will have to drop her a little soonish :(

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WYTSKY

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lol thanks mate,

backs are 18*8.5, 245,30,18 with Mitchellen pilot rubber +37 offset

fronts are 18*8 with same rubber and +42 offset with some 5mm spacers...

I wanted some easy fitting ones... not cutting up guards and all that crap... so they sit about 5mm in from the guards...

got them from import monster on here :)

best of all they are light as for 18's.

lets see ur wheels mate :D wheres all the cash coming from?!? wheels, turbo, must all be going for u!!

Adam

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