Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Engine Parts


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The parts up for grabs have a cheaper price than the original (nearly all the goods except a few)!!

Wiring loom (unmolestered) $400

R34 GTR intake plenum $80

Throttle bodies + linkages $300

Intake manifold assay (injector plate) $300

Head (complete and acid dipped and treated) $1000

Crank $300

Power steering bracket $10

Crank pulley X2 $40 each

Exhaust manifolds X2 $30 the pair

Block $200

Crank girdle and crank scraper $100

RB26 stock fuel rail + reg $50

Coil packs and brackets $100

Oil filter assay $100

Oil + water lines $50

AAC valve and air chamber $150

Air regulator (idle control) $80

CAS and mounting bracket $100

Alternator $50

Throttle valve switch $40

Twin turbo connecting pipe X2 $20 each

R33 centre grille with mesh $100

R33 front bar (N1 replica bar) no indicators though $200

ANY INTEREST IN THE ABOVE PARTS SEND US A PM

Link to comment
Share on other sites

INTAKE PLENUM, THROTTLE BODIES AND THROTTLE VALVE SWITCH ****SOLD**** (BAHAIMUS)

Other parts still available! Send us a PM if you are in need of any of these things!!

hey mate, can you contact me on 0414 913 548, interested in the head.

Thanks David

I also live in Adelaide

Edited by calaisturbo5speed
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Installed  Nismo coppermix twin competition spec last year in my bnr32 with pull trans with Oem slave cylinder. The point at where the clutch disengages/enages is right at the top of the clutch pedal, meaning I barely have to push the pedal down for the clutch to be disengaged.  You guys that have the same combo are you experiencing this high pedal bite point??   Secondly I’d like to have the disengagement point lower meaning I have to push the pedal more(further not effort)for it to be disengaged.  I’m thinking to use a Nismo big operating cylinder(bigger bore at 13/16 vs Oem 3/4) which will require more pedal stroke to get the equivalent movement at the clutch fork. But I see Nismo web site says not to mix these 2 as the Nismo big operating cylinder doesn’t have enough stroke to disengage??? Any folks run both the coppermix twin pull with Nismo cylinder??    Thanks in advance for the replies but prefer only guys with pull clutches to respond. thanks     
    • Any chance u could let us know where your based ?
    • That’s a great deal and I would jump on it if you were closer. Melbourne is a bit of a hike for me though unfortunately 
    • I wonder if there is much to tell without knowing where the bolts where bought from. If it comes from Amazon or similar all bets are off. Can't trust them. And I fear not everybody knows that. Wasn't it @TurboTapin who ended up with the fake fuel lines recently? The submersible ones which very much weren't submersible at all. It kind of applies to everything nowadays. Doesn't matter if it's hardware or electronics. The fancy camera might have internals swapped out for cheap knockoffs. The hard drive will report a certain size but not actually be able to write it all. Shit like that. A bit depressing but the reality is you really have to be weary of where and how you buy stuff
×
×
  • Create New...