Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what injectors would you use ?? has anyone converted gtr injectors or can point me in the right direction . not looking at spending 1300 on sard injectors . cheers !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

rb30 bottom end 25 det top end . runnin kkr 560 greddy plenum and 90 mm tb ?? compression ration 9: 1 :1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i've decided to go gtr injectors n fuel rail . whats the difference between the injectors flow wise gtr vs gtst .And the Fuel rail ?? HelP!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was faced with the same problem on the R33GTST when I had the 450 bhp target on pump 98, the rediculous cost of straight swap injectors made me search for another answer. The best solutiion I could come up with was a GReddy copy inlet manifold, a set of GTR top feed injectors and a GTR fuel rail with a Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator to push the injectors the fraction more necessary (440 to 450 bhp). Since I already had a set of standard GTR injectors and a fuel rail, the only cost was $400 for the manifold and FPR plus making up a resistor pack was no big deal for me.

That's not actually what the car has, due to the availability of E85 I decided the GTR injectors weren't going to be big enough, so I used 550 cc injectors (13B turbo) which are high impedance so I didn't need to use the resistor pack. Waste not want not, I used the resistor pack on the R32GTST with its 1000 cc Rochester injectors as they are low impedance.

Cheers

Gary

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the topic of Injectors

How are those 1000cc Rochester and 855 Bosch injectors you see on ebay for cheap?

my understanding is they need a 14mm fuel rail and connectors? (on GTR so same low impendance)

they seem alot cheaper then sard/greddy/hks etc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ye thats beccause as you said, they dont bolt in.

probably also need new injector plugs and so on, which end of the day cost vs effort vs time... the jap direct replacement stuff probably comes close, certainly wins in the speed stakes which on workshop rates can save you money :mad:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So really you're better off changing to a GREDDY type intake mani, and GT-R rail + injectors rather than just using drop in replacements for the RB25DET pricewise? I'm finding that the stock ones seem to be hitting awfully close to full cycle sometimes (had a light come up on the display once to indicate max duty when setting up EBC with continued 18psi runs), and are now looking at replacing the injectors rather than be dodgy and use a FPR.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just to clarify, the RB26 and RB25 fuel rails all bolt up to the GReddy RB25 intake manifold. The difference is the injectors / FPR. I need to clarify as im doing a 25/30 using a greddy manifold and just need to open up my options for fuel rail, injectors and fpr.

Many thanks.

Edited by Stargate
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes the stock rb25 fuel rail will bolt onto the rb25 Greddy manifold

aftermarket rb26 fuel rails also bolt up to the greddy manifold

im sure the stock one does too, but changing from hi impendence injectors to low you need the 26 resistor pack?

aftermarket rails also come in different sizes

most common being 10.5 and 11mm

Edited by R32 Driver
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am in the process of testing 13 different types of JECS injectors (dont ask me where i got them from) i work in the automotive industry. these are all side feed and are the right impeadence for r32 and r33 gtst ecu's

they bolt right into the rail of an rb25 and even fit the plugs. once finished I should have availability of 440, 600 and 790cc injectors based on a fuel pressure of 42psi.

the problem with this is I have had to BUILD my own flow testing bench and calibrate it against another machine. this is due to most commercial machines do not have toe ability to test 6 800cc side feed injectors. I went a bit overboard and buit a bit of a monster and in the end spent more than a commercial machine costs building it but it is one hell of a machine.

once this is all done I am hoping to have sets of injectors available for less than $400 perhaps even $300 if i can get all the parts needed for the right price. I was sick of paying stupid amounts for aftermarket products that are O.E. hopefully I will be able to recoup some of the cost by selling a few sets.

I still need to do a bit more testing before i am happy to sell them to people but so far I have a factory idle with bolt in 790cc injectors and excellent atomisation. they will flow enough for 450rwkw safely. that should be enough for almost anyone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am in the process of testing 13 different types of JECS injectors (dont ask me where i got them from) i work in the automotive industry. these are all side feed and are the right impeadence for r32 and r33 gtst ecu's

they bolt right into the rail of an rb25 and even fit the plugs. once finished I should have availability of 440, 600 and 790cc injectors based on a fuel pressure of 42psi.

the problem with this is I have had to BUILD my own flow testing bench and calibrate it against another machine. this is due to most commercial machines do not have toe ability to test 6 800cc side feed injectors. I went a bit overboard and buit a bit of a monster and in the end spent more than a commercial machine costs building it but it is one hell of a machine.

once this is all done I am hoping to have sets of injectors available for less than $400 perhaps even $300 if i can get all the parts needed for the right price. I was sick of paying stupid amounts for aftermarket products that are O.E. hopefully I will be able to recoup some of the cost by selling a few sets.

I still need to do a bit more testing before i am happy to sell them to people but so far I have a factory idle with bolt in 790cc injectors and excellent atomisation. they will flow enough for 450rwkw safely. that should be enough for almost anyone.

any chance of something that would fit Neo rails?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A year of slogging through this bearing issue and finally fixed. What a nightmare. The oil pressure increase did not fix the problem. If you would like to read all the details in case you ever run into a similar issue visit my thread on Yellow Bullet. https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads/continuous-rod-bearing-issues.2689569/?post_id=74193031&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-74193031 In the end the rod bearings themselves were the issue. I had switched from ACL (first engine) to King because that was all we could get at the time and I thought nothing of it. Put the ACL's back in after a year of taking the pan off multiple times to change many things. Issue resolved. Can't believe it was just the bearings themselves all along. It has now been about two years since I drove the car on the street or had it at the track. At some point I had installed all solid and spherical bushings in the rear but had never aligned it since it just went on and off the dyno. Alignment was the first thing to do. (Old photo but same concept) Then I took the transmission out and went through it. This was my first gearset install and I've done about 15 since this one and learned a lot and wanted to apply some of these tweaks to mine. The aftermarket shift forks take very well to some modification and I wanted to make that change. Shifts are now super smooth and no having to find the gear. I also recut the 5th and reverse shift sleeves - always wanted to try this and see how well it works. It works very well! No grinds or having to do a second attempt going into reverse and 5th is perfect. Before During After Going back in In rummaging through my spare trans parts box I found the only parts I've ever broke on a stock trans; the 3-4 shift fork - twice!  
    • It also depends on gearbox ratio. Those drag cars running 7s passes aren't doing it on an overdrive gear ratio (probably). 1:1 is "fine", the critical RPM for a 50' single driveshaft in chromemoly is 6900rpm.... ....but when you shift into 5th and use 0:73 or 0:8 it all changes. Do you know their rear diff ratio? etc. That's the stuff that matters with regards to it. Whether it actually matters given your use application is also relevent. You may never get into those scenarios, like most ruined GTR's from Western Sydney don't :p
    • but for how long? would it handle a few laps around SMSP in anger? 
    • And over it. Need to stop it coming through the floor.
    • Is it running the standard ECU? some sort of data log might help understand where timing, AFRs etc are at.  If it is standard ECU something like Nissan Datascan would help
×
×
  • Create New...