Jump to content
SAU Community

Guard Rolling/flaring

simpleboyy
 Share

Recommended Posts

simpleboyy Enthusiast

simpleboyy

Posted
Posted

HEy guys i just got a new set of rims and the rears rub with a full load of people in the car the rears are 265 40 17 and every time it it got a full load it rubs like no tomorrow and i was wondering if i could do it my self i watch the japanese diy and they used a pole to roll on the wheel to the guards i dont noe if its safe to do but im just wondering if its worth it doing it my self or get the professionals to do it? and also dose anyone recommend any one? thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272713-guard-rollingflaring/
Share on other sites
super_s13 Community Regular

super_s13

Posted
Posted (edited)

In Darwin there is only two places that i know of that do it and its around 80 bucks a corner to roll the lip. As for proper flaring and shit no idea

Be it your no doubt not up here in the big smoke LOL it should be cheaper down south as there would be more places that do it

Edited by super_s13
simpleboyy Enthusiast

simpleboyy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

lol im not in darwin and i got an idea whould i stretch the tryes at the back from 265 to 255 but it looks on the rim the tyre looks kinda stretched already ill take some photos tomorrow and show you guys what i mean

Spunky Munky Grand Master

Spunky Munky

Posted
Posted

Definitely, get a pro to do it...moreover, make sure both sides are flared out evenly - sometimes one is more and the other is less, on angles and head-on you will see the difference.

Lastly, the paint will definitely chip, just make sure you tough it up with a small paint brush and some touch-up paint...matter solved...

simpleboyy Enthusiast

simpleboyy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i was had to run spacer at the rears cause the wheels was soo wide that it would touch the lower suspension arm going over a bump i had to run 8 mm spacer now i got 6 mm on and it still dose it but it clears the guards but my suspension is too soft and the wheels hit the top of the wheel arch soo i guess i gotta get coilovers to stiffen things up heheheheheh

FloydWestwood Veteran

FloydWestwood

Posted
Posted

i think wholesale suspension in penrith do it as well for $60/$70 a corner. My car rubs too, but I wouldn't do it myself. If you are gonna try, make sure you get yourself a heatgun as well as a pole/hammer/roller or whatever your going to use. I even think you can buy a guard roller from justjap or somewhere like that.

simpleboyy Enthusiast

simpleboyy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

LOL somthing i noticed the left side of my car is a little higher then the right side oh and i cant get lower profile tyres it would muck up the speedo i am currently looking for a pair of 265/40/17 and when ever i say that to the tyre guy for a quote they look at me as if i was crazy and say that their pretty sure its 255/40/17 well right now on the rears are 265/40/17 LOL

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      RB20 in need of modest love injection

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • QB6SAGR
      RB20 in need of modest love injection

      By QB6SAGR · Posted

      Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • Duncan
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By Duncan · Posted

      FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • sunsetR33
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
×
×
  • Create New...