Bomberman's Rb26debt Build From Dmms Or Better Known As Dazmo

[AtomicBomberMan]

Belt is on so covers can go on now too. Also crank timing pulley plate goes on too. Once again Craved Coatings did a really good job.

Crank angle sensor bracket

Timing belt cover

Crank angle sensor. Bearing was a bit noisy in this one. Will probably have to get it changed at a later stage.

On the other end of the engine Daz put on the rear oil seal retainer with new seal.

Edited June 24, 2009 by AtomicBomberMan

[Angus Smart]

hey chris, check your msn...

[AtomicBomberMan]

While the engine was getting built, some parts were getting ceramic coated at Competition Coatings. Some of the items sent over were.

Sorry BLITZ (forum member) I borrowed this pic from you because I lost mine! Tomei dump pipe kit.

HKS stainless manifolds with balance pipe. These are no longer in production. Needless to say ive had them for ages! The balance pipe is supposed to help with compressor surge.

A pair of turbo exhaust housings.

[Angus Smart]

I slept in and just rushed out the door to get to work will get them photos this arvo or might dash home at lunch to snap some.

[AtomicBomberMan]

cheers andrew. no rush. when you get a chance.

[Angus Smart]

Hey Chris here's the photos you requested..

the box is usually sitting a little bit higher but the cross member has been dropped a bit to get motor out easier.

there has been a little knock/bash in, but its not as much as what the 33 sounded like it copped.

[femno]

Nice work guys, I have questions:

Why use HKS gears? They are notorious for slipping and destroying engines due to the flawed 3-bolt design.

I dont understand why you used a second hand water pump? When you have gone to all the trouble of even buying new bolts and parts etc, this isnt a cheap build?

A noisy CAS? You know if the bearing seizes it could ruin your camshaft?

What welch plugs are those? Steel or Brass?

Oh, and for good looks grey 3-bond would have been better just being pedantic because Im guessing you would be too haha.

[sav man]

I thought it was the old HKS gears that had the problem (the blue outer ones), and that was cause the gears were made out of average material and stripped. i've had the 'new' HKS gears on my car for 3 years and they havn't moved at all.

[Blitz]

I thought it was the old HKS gears that had the problem (the blue outer ones), and that was cause the gears were made out of average material and stripped. i've had the 'new' HKS gears on my car for 3 years and they havn't moved at all.

I think you are spot on Ben.

The old type were notoriously problematic, but the newer current HKS gears, like Tomei are made from Duralumin for increased strength and durability.

[AtomicBomberMan]

Hey Chris here's the photos you requested..

the box is usually sitting a little bit higher but the cross member has been dropped a bit to get motor out easier.

there has been a little knock/bash in, but its not as much as what the 33 sounded like it copped.

Thanks for that Andrew. Really appreciate it.

[AtomicBomberMan]

Nice work guys, I have questions:

Why use HKS gears? They are notorious for slipping and destroying engines due to the flawed 3-bolt design.

I dont understand why you used a second hand water pump? When you have gone to all the trouble of even buying new bolts and parts etc, this isnt a cheap build?

A noisy CAS? You know if the bearing seizes it could ruin your camshaft?

What welch plugs are those? Steel or Brass?

Oh, and for good looks grey 3-bond would have been better just being pedantic because Im guessing you would be too haha.

Hey matt, how are those brakes!? re the hks gears, sav man and blitz have hit the nail on the head. I was totally aware of the infamous hks cam gears and their problems. I used to have a set before these too. The ones with the blue outer gears. i never had them in long enough for slippage luckily but when i removed them i noticed that the teeth had lost all the blue anodizing on them. i guess if you run them for long enough, the wearing could cause slippage. Like ben and nick have said they have changed the material for the outer gears and im sure hks have discontinued the old model and replaced it with this duralmin type for that very reason. I have heard many people talk about the chance of failure due to the 3 bolt design. unlike tome that have 4 or 5 locking points. i had my previous hks ones for 4 years and never had a problem. I guess if theyre done up properly ie tight, hopefully i'll never see any problems.

Hmm, when i bought this pump i treated it like a bit of memorabilia too. i had no intentions to use it. but i then thought, if it came off a race car, surely there couldnt be that many miles on it. and i could always have it as an ornament after the end of its life (assuming theres still life in it) I still have an N1 pump so if this one fails, there is already something that can go straight on.

I know that i shouldnt be using this CAS. I will probably get a new one soon. This is just to get the car going. Does anyone know if the bearings in the CAS are servicable?

Matt do you mean the plugs in the block?

yeah GREY 3bond would have been better. But the gasket kit included the orange type. in the end, we ran out and had to get a grey tube anyway!

Cheers savman and Bitz for sharing your experiences with the hks cam gears.

[Miss BNR32]

Mate you chop and change your mind more than the bomber man Will give you a race when your all done but it will include some corners none of this straight line stuff .

Lol.....Adam you might be better off racing me. Hopefully for you I won't beat you in my high heels again.

[AtomicBomberMan]

The Nissan parts have arrived! All the rubber hoses and new clamps, and a heap of other bits and pieces.

Throttle bracket and water pipe. Old one was all rusty.

Time to bolt on the intake side of engine.

Daz sitting down on the job.

New studs were put into the head before the intake manifold assembly went on. This was sealed with a metal gasket from the Tomei gasket kit. For the time being, because there was still so much work to do, the fresh painted cam covers were removed and replaced with old ones to avoid dings and scratches.

The porting again.

Water bypass connector goes on.

All new O rings put in for balance tube. Once again, these are found in the gasket kit

Nismo Low temp thermo. this one opens at 62degrees as opposed to 76.5degress.

Water outlet elbow

All new Nissan studs for throttle bodies

The throttle bodies go on. Metal gaskets from Tomei gasket kit

Metal gaskets for plenum.

[BezerkR32]

hey guys, nice detailed build. curios on what ecu you plan on running.......if you are going to use something running MAP sensors like a D-jetro it might be worth putting the boost/vac signal fittings in the runners now while they are easily accessible.

if you are still running AFMs please disregard this post.

Cheers Stuart

[Deano45]

nice build thread.

I can't wait to start getting my engine assembled again (not as extreme as yours though)

Are they your old cam covers on there atm, so you don't want to damage your power coated ones?

[Beer Baron]

hey guys, nice detailed build. curios on what ecu you plan on running.......if you are going to use something running MAP sensors like a D-jetro it might be worth putting the boost/vac signal fittings in the runners now while they are easily accessible.

if you are still running AFMs please disregard this post.

Cheers Stuart

yep good advice. in all my GTRs now, if the engine comes out and plenumn etc comes off I drill and tap the two points and insert two nipples just in case me or a future owner decides to go map in the future. I bought a bunch of the nipples from apexi that they use for the djetro kits and just use them. and when they're not in use you can just bridge them together with a piece of vacuum hose. it's one of those things that's so easy to do when everything's apart, but hard when engine is in.

everything looking good. where did that nismo thermostat come from? the nismo packaging looks a bit weird...

[AtomicBomberMan]

hey guys, nice detailed build. curios on what ecu you plan on running.......if you are going to use something running MAP sensors like a D-jetro it might be worth putting the boost/vac signal fittings in the runners now while they are easily accessible.

if you are still running AFMs please disregard this post.

Cheers Stuart

Stuart, i still havent decided yet what i would like to use. Well, i would "LIKE" to use Motec, but im not sure if the budget allows. Daz is running motec and says the motec does not require the setup like the DJetro power fc's. Actually, is that the case? What about for autronic, vipec etc? Are they setup like the DJetro layout? I think i'll tackle this when i get to it. For run in, i think i will be running standard injectors and the standard computer.

nice build thread.

I can't wait to start getting my engine assembled again (not as extreme as yours though)

Are they your old cam covers on there atm, so you don't want to damage your power coated ones?

Deano, yeah i put some old ones on (cleaned of course) as there were a lot of heavy tools hammers, spanners etc being waved over them all the time.

yep good advice. in all my GTRs now, if the engine comes out and plenumn etc comes off I drill and tap the two points and insert two nipples just in case me or a future owner decides to go map in the future. I bought a bunch of the nipples from apexi that they use for the djetro kits and just use them. and when they're not in use you can just bridge them together with a piece of vacuum hose. it's one of those things that's so easy to do when everything's apart, but hard when engine is in.

everything looking good. where did that nismo thermostat come from? the nismo packaging looks a bit weird...

BB I will definitely look into this. I most probably wont be running a power fc Djetro though. Ive heard these are more suited to WOT. Is this true? There is so much put into the engine i definitely cant skimp when it comes to management. I'm sure a lot of computers are much of a muchness, I guess at the end of the day, the computer is only as good as the person punching in the numbers.

I bought the thermostat from Japan. I know what you mean by dodgy packaging though. A lot of Nismo packaging is dodgy. they are just normal boxes and stuff with Nismo stickers slapped on.

Edited June 26, 2009 by AtomicBomberMan

[Beer Baron]

definitely drill and tap some holes in runners 3 and 4 and insert some 4mm nipples. it doesn't hurt anything having them there, and if in the future you need a good source for a map sensor (or 2 in djetro case) whether it be for motec, vipec, autronic or whatever you'll have it ready.

[AtomicBomberMan]

definitely drill and tap some holes in runners 3 and 4 and insert some 4mm nipples. it doesn't hurt anything having them there, and if in the future you need a good source for a map sensor (or 2 in djetro case) whether it be for motec, vipec, autronic or whatever you'll have it ready.

Sounds good BB will definitely look into that. I definitely dont want to be drillin holes etc while its in the car. Cheers mate.

[Swiper the Fox]

Sounds good BB will definitely look into that. I definitely dont want to be drillin holes etc while its in the car. Cheers mate.

I run my Vi-PEC map signal off the plenum...but mine has single T/B...if using the Vi-PEC you could do the same but id be happier to see the signal tee'd off after the butterflies as you are using multi throttles.

Just for the record the winning class cars at Superlap both ran Vi-PEC.