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Ok, the next part of the build has be talked about heaps in other threads. The oil drain on the back of the head. Whether or not it works, or whether it is a good mod, everyone has their own opinion. But i am definitely adding this to my head. This is a fitting that I bought from Blue Force Racing in Japan, and at quite a pretty penny i might add. http://blue-force.sakura.ne.jp/index.html The link to the adaptor http://blue-force.sakura.ne.jp/n-14-oilrtn.htm This adaptor allows for a drain on the back of the head without the need for recessing the firewall to make room for the fittings to fit. Machined from one piece of billet aluminium.

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Give it a bash and lever it out

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double check in and around the opening for metal fragments

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mark out the screw points and put some tape over the hole to stop fragments from going in

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Put on some 3 bond and press it in. Its a tight fit.

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it can be angled either side to suit individual setups.

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I had a -12 fitting welded to drivers side of the sump. This is where the oil will return to.

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Other examples

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Edited by AtomicBomberMan

nice looking fitting. the common wisdom seems to be that not much will drain back and that the real value drain wise is in porting out the factory oil returns BUT it should still work well as a vent. you could possibly even add a catch tank of sorts between the top fitting and the sump with a vent on it to allow it to vent to atmosphere through another outlet (other than just the rocker covers). but it will still work that way.

some cool pics on their site showing how they fit a trust sump up by measuring the depth the new pick-up will reach to determine where to weld the extension to the old sump:

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apparently drawing pictures on your no 6 piston will also give your engine power of super lucky dream wish.

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on one of the head return/vent installs they mounted it to passenger side and also added another little pressure/vacuum feed which is interesting. but in other install pics they have done one facing drivers side too.

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nice looking fitting. the common wisdom seems to be that not much will drain back and that the real value drain wise is in porting out the factory oil returns BUT it should still work well as a vent.

Yes that's right but the common wisdom doesn't usually run 2 bars of boost Beer Baron.

Run more than 2 bars of boost then the blowby and oil flow will change significantly.

Yes that's right but the common wisdom doesn't usually run 2 bars of boost Beer Baron.

Run more than 2 bars of boost then the blowby and oil flow will change significantly.

lol, can't argue with that. :D no doubt things will be behaving differently with near 30 pound of boost in there. the vacuum alone in the pipe that is connected from rocker covers to the intake (pre turbo) will be HUGE.

Beer Baron, what people often forget to factor in is that the pistons push a fair amount of air not only on their top surfaces but on their bottom surfaces as well (during their movement inside the engine). Therefore IMHO oil retention in the head is not just from the increase in oil pump output at high rpm but also as a result of crank pressure at high rpm impeding the oil return.

Anyway, whether the head oil return line return excess oil from the head depends on the location of the lower end of the return line.

- If it's above the sump oil level it will act as a crank vent ie non of the oil from the head will return via this line.....as reported by many RB owners on the other thread.

- If the oil drain is below the sump oil level then some oil from the head will more than likely return via this oil return hose with gravity and g-force. There is a disclaimer for this as well. It will only drain oil if the hose is large enough and the crank pressure is not too high. If the crank pressure is too high and the hose is too small then it can potentially shoot oil from sump to head via this hose :)

Sorry for the long winded post ....just my 2c with common sense and basic physic understanding

Beer Baron, what people often forget to factor in is that the pistons push a fair amount of air not only on their top surfaces but on their bottom surfaces as well (during their movement inside the engine). Therefore IMHO oil retention in the head is not just from the increase in oil pump output at high rpm but also as a result of crank pressure at high rpm impeding the oil return.

Anyway, whether the head oil return line return excess oil from the head depends on the location of the lower end of the return line.

- If it's above the sump oil level it will act as a crank vent ie non of the oil from the head will return via this line.....as reported by many RB owners on the other thread.

- If the oil drain is below the sump oil level then some oil from the head will more than likely return via this oil return hose with gravity and g-force. There is a disclaimer for this as well. It will only drain oil if the hose is large enough and the crank pressure is not too high. If the crank pressure is too high and the hose is too small then it can potentially shoot oil from sump to head via this hose :)

Sorry for the long winded post ....just my 2c with common sense and basic physic understanding

piston movement will not create crank pressure as you are thinking, because the pistons rising will cause a vaccum in the sump at the same time as the pistons that are decending will create extra pressure... these pressures will cancel each other out and not create an excess crank pressure

Edited by Cerbera

Yes you are right Cerbera, the overall crank pressure is only affected by blowby.

However I was referring to the pressure under each "piston/cylinder" section and the oil/air flow. Sorry I did not explain it properly.

For clarification I think this drain will only vent the crank pressure

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and these 2 drains are good for oil return in high boost and rpm application

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Edited by 9krpm

ok fair enough...

with those pictures, i dont see why they would drain differently?!? they are both draining/venting into the same enclosed volume of air above oil with the same amount of backpressure???

and these 2 drains are good for oil return in high boost and rpm application

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i have 2 similar oil return lines in my rips sump kit which runs off my catch can - rob @ rips said that these lines are very important, when i asked him why, he laughed

The first picture is above the oil level and the last 2 pictures are below the sump oil level.

yes i understand they are below the oil level...

you need to understand the oil will be applying the same back pressure as the gas above because it's contained in the same volume of space

Cerbera, yes that is right but when the lower end of the oil return hose is below the oil level, the crank pressure will be trying to move a column of oil against gravity up that oil return hose to the head. The height of this oil rise is inversely proportion to the size of the hose ie the bigger the return hose the lower the oil climb up this hose (for the same crank pressure). As I said earlier, hypothetically, if the crank pressure is high enough and the oil return line is too small then it can actually shoot oil up the head :D

If the return point is above the oil level, air will get push up that hose.

Oil from the head can still return to the sump in the first case but not the later case.

Now I am looking at it from a theoretical static point. In real life, oil will slush around the sump and there might be little different between the 2 depends on what the car is doing. However, return point below oil level is always more effective than a crank vent to the head..... in theory :)

Ideally there should be a pump, which just need to provide a slightly higher pressure than the crank pressure, attached to the line to assist the oil return.

Edited by 9krpm

Thanks for the comment Cerbera lol I enjoy the discussion, you are very switch on too :)

but saying that in the "later" case why can not the oil travel down at the same time the air travels up?

I am sure there is some but not significant enough if the crank pressure is high.

The analogy to this is like having an air pump on the ground, connected to a plastic tube with the other end in the fish tank full of water, why doesn't water run down into the pump? It's because water particle doesn't have enough energy to go against the air momentum/resistance into the tube. Matter (liquid, solid or gas) just follow the least resistance path.

actually it depends on the air pressure pushing back up the pump... if there was enough pressure to hold the oil at the top there would possibly be enough pressure to push oil back up to the top if the line was under the oil line

actually it depends on the air pressure pushing back up the pump... if there was enough pressure to hold the oil at the top there would possibly be enough pressure to push oil back up to the top if the line was under the oil line

I dont think so.

How high the oil get pushed up the line depends on

-the depth of the line below the oil level

-the surface area of the oil in the sump

-the density of the oil

-the radius of the line

-the surface pressure of the oil in the sump (crank pressure + atmospheric pressure)

-downward force (gravitational force + force exert by the shocks/car movement + atmospheric pressure)

Once the oil ,inside this hose, reaches it's max height, the pressure on top of it's surface will be less than or equal to the pressure inside the cam cover.

If you use oil with viscocity thin enough for it to pour out of a bottle when you tip the bottle upside down, this oil will always trickle down from the cams area down toward the sump because of either the pressures difference or the gravitational force.

It will then displace some oil inside the line back into the sump until all of the forces equilibriate :)

Edited by 9krpm

Ok, now onto the exhuast side. i'm sure i posted these up but i cant seem to find them. The exhaust manifolds are from HKS and are for low mount t25 type turbos with actuators. Not sure how well these manifolds work but they do feature a balance pipe to help reduce or hopefully eliminate compressor surge. Does anyone have any experience with these? Please share! (as everybody else has)

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underside with bulker joint

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perfect welds as expected from HKS

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The manifolds were sent off to have ceramic coated inside and out with the rest of the other gear dump pipes etc... Bulker joint could not be ceramic coated as movement will cause the coating to come off. When fitting these to the head, the bulker joint in the balance pipe section of the manifold needs to be assembled first, if not the joins will more than likely leak. For this section, on top of the gaskets, sealant was also used for a better seal. A Tomei Metal exhaust manifold gasket was used between the head and the manifold.

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Earls fittings for turbo lines ie water and oil etc were also put into place.

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Edited by AtomicBomberMan

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