Bomberman's Rb26debt Build From Dmms Or Better Known As Dazmo

[swanny180]

Mate, awesome, awesome thread so far!!

Seriously... PLEASE keep it coming!!

And also, specs!! Gimme gimme gimme!

Thankyou.

Honestly though great stuff, farking loving all these build up threads lately... My wallet is looking scared though?

[AtomicBomberMan]

Now, what would an RB26 build be without its fair share of hiccups. I believe anyone that says a rb26 build went smoothly is sorta kinda... LYING. MY first hurdle was that both Daz and I had heard great things about cryogenics. Supposed to make metal stronger blah blah blah, so we both went to get our blocks cryoed. Both being virgins (the blocks that is), the cryoing process caused a lot of movement in the blocks. This in turn caused the tunnels to go out of alignment. This required a line hone which is quite an expensive process. Well, any money spent that you werent prepared for will always be expensive. Ok tunnel sorted.

Next obstacle. Piston to bore clearance, yank pistons approx 4 thou. Jap pistons 2 thou! i wish i had of known that (or more importantly the machinist) before it was taken to 4 thou! Anyway, no easy solution here. I had to sell the block and get another. I was lucky my mate (who owns a shop) found a customer that had bought a stroker kit and was going to take it out to 87mm anyway.

Three weeks later a new block had arrived from Japan. This time no cryogenics for me thanks. The tunnel was measured up and it was perfect. Better put in the ARP main studs and double check...... hmmm where are my main studs?.............IN THE OTHER BLOCK! Anyway, another few hundred dollars later, and another main stud kit later, the tunnel was measured up and it was still perfect. The bore needed to be honed to the right piston to bore clearance, cant afford anymore stuffups this time so STONE BROTHERS RACING did all the machining, with dummy head etc. Piston to bore finished up between 2-2.3 thou. All the other items ie clutch, crank, pistons and rods were all balanced by Dave at CRANKSHAFT ENGINEERING. Hopefully things go smoother from here on in.

[Merli]

[AtomicBomberMan]

Haha, cheers merli, I'm doing spunky monkey over your car too! For all those requesting specs, if i gave you the spec sheet, this thread would bore you all to tears! haha Its a photo diary! Specs will be revealed! Be patient! Thanks for all your interest guys. This has been quite a surprise for me. I guess i'll have to keep it going now.

I lost a lot of photos from the beginning of the build, So i wont put up a step by step guide. I will put up what i have and bring you up to date.

Here is a full pic of the HKS crank.

The block was degreased, water blasted and blow dried. Once this was done, and the crank was clean, the crank was laid into the block on TOMEI bearings. Upon opening the Tomei bearings, the first thing that came to mind was, "hey! ive seen these before!" For those that have bought bearings before, see if this picture rings any bells? HINT: Pay particular attention to the finish of the tomei bearings. Find answer below pic.

YUP! you guessed it. Tomei bearings are made by ACL. Tomei bearings are the ACL RACE SERIES BEARINGS. When I went to Hi Octane in Sydney to pick up some parts, they confirmed it! The ACL bearings are SO much cheaper! I very much doubt that ACL did anything specific for tomei bearings at all! The only difference is the burning sensation that remains from being bent over!

One, two skip a few..... this is the part where i lost a lot of the pics. Anyway, here is a pic where the oil squirters have been put in, the crank is already in the block, and the rod and piston assemblies are being bolted to the journals. Oh, and there was a lot of plastigauging too, to check clearances. Most of the clearances in this engine are on the tighter side of things. Redline assembly lube was used throughout the assembly.

Main stud kit is in. One of the studs needed to be cut and a groove cut in for tightening. This is done because one of the studs sits too high and will foul on part of the sump.

Torque to stud specs. Dont forget the stud lube!

Conrods are all bolted to crank

Bottom end almost finished.

Edited June 2, 2009 by AtomicBomberMan

[SDEWY5]

this is faaaarking sick..

[AtomicBomberMan]

A new N1 block comes bare from factory. So i needed to buy one of these

and one of these

oil return piping and dipstick (sorry no photos)

an important addition was a Tomei Oil Gallery Orafice. The existing one (2.0mm hole) was bashed deeper in, and the new Tomei one (1.5mm hole) was bashed in on top. This is to restrict the flow of the oil going to the head, keeping oil where it is needed most, in your sump. I downloaded the pic from the Tomei site to explain this better. I figure most people who frequent the motorsport section already know what this is. But just in case there are some newbies, i figure a explanation would be nice.

Dazmo in his Nismo uniform showing us how to bash in a stock orafice. Photo taken Omori Factory in Nerang

TOGO placed on top of stock orafice

New TOGO bashed into place

[AtomicBomberMan]

Thanks SDEWY5, glad youre enjoying it. Getting a little worried you guys might think i may be overdoing it with the pics. too many? too much step by step stuff? Feedback please!

[XRATED]

Keep it commin dude.

[phunky_monkey]

Yup, keep it up. Great stuff mate

[Blitz]

Another awesome build thread White BNR32's must be the flavour of the month!

[9krpm]

Thanks for the kind words Angus and Merli and 9K. 9K you should have a thread too. Give us a run down on yours! I know yours isnt a regular coffee grinder either! Time to fill in the blanks buddy, you've kept us guessing long enough. You can't answer all the questions with "dont know, (wink)" forever mate!

hehe thanks mate. I prefer a sleeper look and let my track time speaks for itself. So the car that I built is not very photogenic. I also took the easy option and purchased a built engine from a reliable source....but don't hold that against me mate.

You are doing a great job. It has been a pleasure to follow so far. Keep up the good work.

Good luck with the rest of the project.

I love to have time to post some pics up as well but I have been busy rebuilding my turbo s2000. My bnr32 has also given me a few glitches as late. It's almost sorted though. It will be good to see your car on the track buddy.

Hopefully we will all get a dry track in QLD for a change lol

Edited June 3, 2009 by 9krpm

[NickR33]

so is this car going to see the track or just be a streeter? what kind of oil control (sump/pump etc) are you going for? I'm probably jumping the gun hey;)

those cranks make me want to bash my credit card... I'm waiting to find out of I need a new crank at the moment and they all look soooo nice... the knife edging on that Apexi crank makes me tingle in naughty places... there are too many of these cool threads at the moment, gives me bad ideas

keep posting those pics, otherwise I might actually have to do some work

[Mr. Keets]

Thanks SDEWY5, glad youre enjoying it. Getting a little worried you guys might think i may be overdoing it with the pics. too many? too much step by step stuff? Feedback please!

Great stuff and some useful tips...ACL bearings. You can never post too many pics of this awesome build.

As for the HKS/Farndon connection, I'm pretty sure Farndon were responsible for the step 3 HKS crank. this seems to be common knowledge on the UK site...having said that it's still an internet forum. Cant wait for the dyno sheet.

[wrxkilla]

Another awesome build thread White BNR32's must be the flavour of the month!

lol

my white r32 is under re-build at the moment too!!!

[wrxkilla]

great thread, followed it through and had a good read. Keep the pics coming.

if you are staying 2.6, why did you decide to ditch a standard crank?

Michael

[unique1]

another top thread good work! great parts list and plenty of photos is always good. So how much did the hks 2.6 crank weigh in the end? i know my jun 2.7 crank weighed in at exactly the same as stock at 19kg from memory.

[AtomicBomberMan]

Thanks for the encouragement guys. So happy to see there is so much interest. I will do my best to keep it as informative and as interesting as possible. You might have to excuse the accuracy at times of some of my technical explanations. At the end of the day its not me that is swingin the spanners. Daz is the one with all the knowledge. If anyone is unsure why i did this or that, please feel free to quiz. And I'll hit him up. Daz wont mind will ya mate!?

Blitz, I was just thinking about your comment, and im sure merli will say the same, I thought white gtrs were the flavor of EVERY month!

9KRPM, "Reliable source" eh? care to elaborate?

NickR33 All will be revealed. The oiling system is nothing special really. Nothing compared to all the other awesome builds in this section. I hope to have this as a semi daily driver/streeter/weekend racer or occasional track day warrior.

Mr Keets, dyno sheet should be a while away yet. I'm really anxious to get it done though. As i said, the car has been sitting for almost 3 years now. and it was only in the last few months Ive gotten off my dot to do something about it. Slowly but surely. Can't afford to change my mind anymore.

wrxkilla, ive seen your car too. NICE! i saw your car at the nissan datsun shindig a couple of weeks back. What happened to your 26? When can we see pics of your build!? Re the crank, I know the standard crank is a tuff bit of gear. If i were ever to do it again, i probably wouldnt buy a big dollar crank. Its total overkill for me. Everyone says i drive miss daisy. I guess i just like the idea of an rb26 reving like a HONDA! You know what they say, "TO BE OLD AND WISE...... YOU MUST FIRST BE YOUNG AND STUPID!" so here goes.

unique1 The hks crank weighed about 22kgs. the JUN crank is very nice. Black and shiny! drool! I think to achieve that weight they removed weight in much the same way as the hks crank. but the jun goes all the way through am i right?

It seems the APEXI crank is drawing all the attention. I'll put up a few reference pics of different cranks for people to help choose their cranks if they ever decide to get one.

[AtomicBomberMan]

I know its kinda off topic. But i thought i would put up for reference some pics of full counterweighted cranks that is on offer for the RB26. I do this because i actually bought and sold a number of cranks before i settled on the hks crank. So I guess you could say this was part of the my build process. Once again, i know a lot of you guys have probably seen it all before, this is for the newbies! From a quality point of view, i couldnt say that one was better than the other. When you pay that sort of money, there all much of a muchness. Anyway, Have a look at the different types and see what floats your boat.

First up APEXI 2.6L Billet crank. Full counterweight. Knife edged. Heavy! Approx 25.5-26kgs No defining marks to say that it is Apexi has a number stamped on the side of first counterweight

Tomei 2.6L Billet crank. Full counterweight. Knife edged. approx 24kgs No defining marks to say that it is TOMEI

Crower 2.6L Billet crank. Full counterweight. NOT Knife edged! Bulky American thing! Never owned one of these so i dont know how much it weighs. Counterweights although not knife edged do look smaller than the weights on the japanese cranks. Has CROWER stamped on the front of first counterweight.

Trust GREX 2.7L billet crank. Trust do not offer a 2.6L option. Has GREX laser etched onto one of the coutnerweights. Very nice crank. Quite a few cars have made big numbers using this crank. I have heard very good things about it. A good compromise. Extra displacement but maintaining revvy nature. Never owned one, so i dont know what it weighs. Seen one in the flesh though, good bit of gear. I wonder who makes this one?

HKS STEP II 2.8L Forged crank. Full counterweighted. Has HKS marking on the side of first counterweight. Keen eyes will see the hks marking in the first pic. I had one of these but never weighed it! Its now in Daz's car!

HKS STEP III 2.6L billet crank. Full counterweight. not knife edged but has metal removed from counterweights to save weight. Weight is approx 22kgs. approx 2kgs over standard. No defining marks to say that it HKS. has numbers engraved onto face of first counterweight. This crank is the one im using. It is no longer in production. The step 3 2.8L version looks exactly the same.

Here is a recent addition to the billet crank world. This one is done by NITTO. I think it is a JV (joint venture) between NITTO and JE pistons. This is part of a 2.7L kit that they offer. Seems to be quite nice. Billet crank, full counterweighted. Laser etching on top of first weight for identification. Only knife edged near bottom of each lobe. A heavier crank though at 25.5kgs. The kit they offer is this crank, JE 87mm pistons, and I beam rods. The pistons have a very thick pin! What do you think?

Thanks to Brad UNIQUE1 for these great pics of his 2.7L Jun full counterweight billet crank. The nitriding that they use (i think) gives the crank a black finish. Making these hell sinister and sexy. Pity once installed you cant see them! Maybe UNIQUE1 can fill in the blanks for me! Please tell us a little more and personal experiences with this crank. Any defining marks?

There are quite a few more. But these are brands i never considered anyway. I know kakimoto racing do one too. I hope this information has been helpful. Please if i have made any errors, correct me!

Edited June 3, 2009 by AtomicBomberMan

[unique1]

jun 2.7 pics... they are billet and 19kg as mentioned

Edited June 3, 2009 by unique1

[AtomicBomberMan]

hahaha cheers mate. I edited as you added! thanks for the info Brad. I really dont like to comment if i dont know for sure.

Edited June 3, 2009 by AtomicBomberMan