Jump to content
SAU Community

Old R32 Needs Some 5k Loving!


Recommended Posts

Hey Guys

I have just changed jobs and have fallen into some money and would like to get the GTR up and running. It is my daily car. I use it always on the street and circuit.

The run down.

Things Broken

  • Front Diff
  • Back Turbo
  • Running really rich (-250km per tank)

Things working ok

  • Timing belts done 1000000
  • Gaskets redone on exhaust
  • engine is still very healthy - pulls hard
  • Clutch has been replace (twin plate - new oils in gearbox)
  • Oils replaced every 5000km with Motul 1000
  • Compression Test comes back all ok 145 across all 6

Basicly I need new turbos and would perfered to be around the 300kw mark evently. All work will be done by myself and a few mates.

If any more info is need just let me know.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Please tell me its 10,000kms on timing belt and not 1,000,000kms. This is any easy one N1 turbs with dumps and fronts metal cat, PFC with z32 AFMs and a good tune. A front diff off the classifieds, $5000 gone :blink:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Since you've got to do the turbos, you should do o2 sensors, and put some decent dumps on while you're at it. If the o2's are shagged it will cause poor fuel consumption, and IIRC the maintenance interval for them is 40,000kms... I've just replaced my turbos with some highflows and modified xforce dumps, also replaced the two hoses coming from the PS reservoir, so check them and also check the air con and high pressure PS hoses while you're in there. Replace anything not it top shape, because you really wont want to be going back in there anytime soon, its a bastard job.

I would either go to ~270kw and keep the standard injectors and MAFs, or go 320kw with bigger injectors and Nismo MAFs. Turbos are Garret 2860 -7 or -9 or HKS GT-SS. You will also need aftermarket ECU and tune. You probably wont get the injectors and MAFs with your budget.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awesome -

I have already got HKS coilovers and 9.5" wide rims, traction shouldn't be an issue.

With the turbos in mind - N1's don't seem to be cheap second hand and with the price of new HKS or Garret items seems like the better option.

So the list should be

New ECU - Remap or PFC?

Turbos - HKS or Garret or N1's?

Dumps - Brand?

Time belts was done 100,00 lol

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Re; N1's dont consider 32 or 33 N1s, only the 34s are worth having. The 2860-7 is identical to the 34 N1, you can probably get a pair for $2600. HKSs will be more expensive, but maybe not so bad anymore that we're back at 80c to the USD.

Cheapest proper ECU option is Nistune @ $400 + around $50 to fit to your ECU. Next up is powerfc at $1000. For either a tune will be ~$600.

Re dumps i got xforce for ~$300 delivered from some mob in New Zealand off ebay....seem ok except for on 32s the o2 sensor mounting is not up to scratch. $70 fix. Get a good metal matrix cat if you dont have one already.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Already got a HKS super dragger and Highflowed cat.

I had a look at some GT-SS HKS "kits" they seem to come with every thing I need. Is it a over board package or everything I need?. Also are second hand turbos are a no no?

Would the PFC be more flexible in the long run compared to a NIS Tune? Also do more people know how to tune the PFC compared to others? EG NIS, E- Manage Keeping in mind I only need 300kw.

Where would be the best place to shop? Any more I should be looked at?

www.justjap.com

www.nengun.com

I live 450km from Perth so shopping can be done there.

I will have a look in the traders section as well.

I have just brought a "newish" front diff. $350 CHEAP!

Cheers.

Edited by whiteboy01
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Go Nistune cost is only $200 or $400 if you would like a license for the tunning software. If your after a Front diff i have the full sump from my old engine laying around make an offer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i just saw a pair of t517z on parts for sale and they are good for 350rwkw+ for pretty cheap, can't remeber how much not what i'm after, and i forgot injectors, i have CES split dumps ceramic coated and equal front pipes, your cat is it metal or ceramic, metal made a massive diff, i have HKS super dragger aswell :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nistune installed into your stock ecu will cost $200 for the board, and Matt fits it for $50 when you send the ECU to him. You don't need the Nistune tuning software ($200 for the user license, then again you'll need to pay another $70 for a Consult cable to be able to connect your laptop/computer to the OBD port) if your getting a workshop to dyno tune it as they will have their own tuners license. Here in SA I asked for quotes from 2 different shops and both quoted the Nistune dyno tune cheaper than a PFC dyno tune (when I was deciding what to do ECU wise when I first got my GTR).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Save your money and dont buy the HKS GTSS kit. Its a waste of money, youre just paying for the name when you can get Garrett equivalents for ~$2600. Get the gaskets you need from Nissan, theyre cheap.

Use the money saved for the HKS turbos to buy yourself a PowerFC. Forget Nistune. Its the best way to go in the long run if you decide to come into more money and want to make more power later down the track. There will also be a larger range of shops you can take the car to be tuned, as it seems more people have PFC capabilities rather than Nistune. Also, the R32/R33 PowerFCs can be had for like $6-800 these days, they are the easiest to come by, so why not get one?

Also, dont waste money on fancy aftermarket dumps, theyre overated, overpriced and most of the time send you backwards power and response wise. Get a hold of some R34 or even R33 GTR standard factory dumps, they are more than ample and cheap. The R34 dumps are nicer though as they are stainless steel and flow a little better than the 33 units. Throw the R32 dumps in the bin, no good.

Keep your factory GTR AFMs. You dont need anything else for the power youre after. My standard AFMs supported 326kw on my previous PFC tune.

Dont replace the 02 sensors. A good PFC tune without 02 sensor feedback will get you better fuel consumption than the 02s ever will.

Get a nice new fuel pump like a Bosch 040, replace your factory 15yo pump with this.

Get a set of cam gears from GKTECH for $200, they are actaully really good quality; guaranteed best money youll ever spend.

If you fit all that yourself, you will have a super responsive ~300kw for $5k, although your injectors may hold you back a little, so maybe cap the power at 270 or 280.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Save your money and dont buy the HKS GTSS kit. Its a waste of money, youre just paying for the name when you can get Garrett equivalents for ~$2600. Get the gaskets you need from Nissan, theyre cheap.

Use the money saved for the HKS turbos to buy yourself a PowerFC. Forget Nistune. Its the best way to go in the long run if you decide to come into more money and want to make more power later down the track. There will also be a larger range of shops you can take the car to be tuned, as it seems more people have PFC capabilities rather than Nistune. Also, the R32/R33 PowerFCs can be had for like $6-800 these days, they are the easiest to come by, so why not get one?

Also, dont waste money on fancy aftermarket dumps, theyre overated, overpriced and most of the time send you backwards power and response wise. Get a hold of some R34 or even R33 GTR standard factory dumps, they are more than ample and cheap. The R34 dumps are nicer though as they are stainless steel and flow a little better than the 33 units. Throw the R32 dumps in the bin, no good.

Keep your factory GTR AFMs. You dont need anything else for the power youre after. My standard AFMs supported 326kw on my previous PFC tune.

Dont replace the 02 sensors. A good PFC tune without 02 sensor feedback will get you better fuel consumption than the 02s ever will.

Get a nice new fuel pump like a Bosch 040, replace your factory 15yo pump with this.

Get a set of cam gears from GKTECH for $200, they are actaully really good quality; guaranteed best money youll ever spend.

If you fit all that yourself, you will have a super responsive ~300kw for $5k, although your injectors may hold you back a little, so maybe cap the power at 270 or 280.

WOW!

Thanks for that. Now the best the place to go for them?

Second ECU would be the best option?

Brand new Garrett turbos - were from? (would perfer new, sick of buying second hand GTR ones and breaking)

Cams - Haven't heard the brand before will read some reviews.

Dumps second hand?

Fuel pump sounds "new" and is making a loud whiring noise. Will look at this as well.

Injectors? How much for a set? No point tuning then retuning later em I right?

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i just saw a pair of t517z on parts for sale and they are good for 350rwkw+ for pretty cheap, can't remeber how much not what i'm after, and i forgot injectors, i have CES split dumps ceramic coated and equal front pipes, your cat is it metal or ceramic, metal made a massive diff, i have HKS super dragger aswell :D

Custom Metal "cat" :D FTW.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Save your money and dont buy the HKS GTSS kit. Its a waste of money, youre just paying for the name when you can get Garrett equivalents for ~$2600. Get the gaskets you need from Nissan, theyre cheap.

Use the money saved for the HKS turbos to buy yourself a PowerFC. Forget Nistune. Its the best way to go in the long run if you decide to come into more money and want to make more power later down the track. There will also be a larger range of shops you can take the car to be tuned, as it seems more people have PFC capabilities rather than Nistune. Also, the R32/R33 PowerFCs can be had for like $6-800 these days, they are the easiest to come by, so why not get one?

Also, dont waste money on fancy aftermarket dumps, theyre overated, overpriced and most of the time send you backwards power and response wise. Get a hold of some R34 or even R33 GTR standard factory dumps, they are more than ample and cheap. The R34 dumps are nicer though as they are stainless steel and flow a little better than the 33 units. Throw the R32 dumps in the bin, no good.

Keep your factory GTR AFMs. You dont need anything else for the power youre after. My standard AFMs supported 326kw on my previous PFC tune.

Dont replace the 02 sensors. A good PFC tune without 02 sensor feedback will get you better fuel consumption than the 02s ever will.

Get a nice new fuel pump like a Bosch 040, replace your factory 15yo pump with this.

Get a set of cam gears from GKTECH for $200, they are actaully really good quality; guaranteed best money youll ever spend.

If you fit all that yourself, you will have a super responsive ~300kw for $5k, although your injectors may hold you back a little, so maybe cap the power at 270 or 280.

Forget Nistune and go the power FC??? how bout save even more money and get nistune. It can do everything the pfc can do + it actually uses the knock sensor. Pretty crap advise I think. I actually sold my PFC to put nistune in. Also if your tuning it your self the nistune software is alot better that the pfc software

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nistune has advantages over the PFC, Nistune you keep the factory features like cold start and the factory self-diagnostics, not to mention the awesome software. It's not flawless though, Matt has said to me in the past Nistune is good with injectors up to 800cc, bigger injectors it starts getting harder to get idle control right because of the loss of resolution, but hasn't stopped Nistune users from running 1000cc injectors successfully.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

PFC or not, you're still only going to get 250km per tank with dead O2 sensors. The genuine O2 sensors (front and back) are about $430 from Nissan for the set, though if you search you might be able find cheaper alternatives from NGK/Bosch etc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

PFC or not, you're still only going to get 250km per tank with dead O2 sensors.

You could turn off closed loop then tune for 14.7 in the map cells that are usually closed loop and achieve similar economy. You could even tune leaner and potentially get more economy. Closed loop gives you precision and compensation if other components fall out of spec. IMO closed loop = WIN. I dont think people should suggest going open loop without explaining the consequences.

I reckon you should go NISTune over PowerFC AS LONG AS your tuner is happy to tune it. Its cheaper, Australian, and on par with powerfc in function (both have their strengths and weaknesses).

Also please get a real cat. Decats are for the sort of people who piss in the street...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nis tune hey?

Sounds like the go. Will Hyperdrive Motor Sports in the Perth no how?

The cat is real just modified flanges.

So onto turbos. i have been looking at some and the names are all over the shop. Could some one point me in the right direction?

Then I will put a shopping list up and see if you guys can "improve" "save" on things.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
    • @99RS4just wondering if you ever took photos of the footwell lighting / how you bypassed the controller, im keen to haver footwell lighting come on when I open the doors too   
×
×
  • Create New...