Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys im searching for some injectors, prefferebly new ones..

i have a r34gtt with a 500hp turbo and want to get my power upto 300rwkw.

Just wondering what size to go for and where to buy them????

cheers

steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272896-r34-gtt-injectors-for-300rwkw/
Share on other sites

anyone got some suggestions????????

550cc im pretty sure mate

just jap or pretty much any other trader on here, just check the trader sales section.

goodluck

Gezza

Ive got 480cc nismo for $600

1 month old just get a nismo reg as well and your all set

whats the reason your selling them, is there anything wrong with them?????

what power were you running with 480's?

Edited by Tough R34

has anyone got close to 300kw with 480's???? would there be a huge diffence with 70cc???

My car got dyno'd at 246kw but that was stretching the stock injectors to 98%

Its now tuned at 220kw with injectors back around the 80% mark.

Nismo don't make any larger than 480cc item for the R34 RB25det neo motor.

I would suggest buying the Nismo 480cc as above ^^^ and the bumping up the fuel pressure (with a FP regulator) twin spray pattern and high impedence, meaning less lag time for fuel to be injected, something like 0.01sec

Otherwise the other options that you have available are:

Highflow standard injectors - approx. $150 each (which aren't the best, can f!ck up spray pattern, impedence etc)

Sard injectors - 600cc or 800cc - they require a collar to be attached and aren't straight bolt in approx. $1200-1400

Blitz injectors - pretty much the same as sard injectors

HKS injectos - 650cc-850cc, requires hks fuel rail - all up approx. $1400

cheers for the info...

are the nismo's straight change over from stock???

has anyone seen 300kw with the nismo's?

i just dont want to get the 480's and then not be able to make that power range....

Nismo are the only direct bolt in, unless u have highflow of standard injectors.

Most of the members on this forum are also saying that 480cc will make 300rwkws.

Just make sure you have a good enough Fuel Pump and maybe the fuel reg

go the nismos n bump up the pressure with a reg. even with nismo injectors ive been told by justjap that u still need to purchase the o-rings. in which case its the same as the sard injectors then. only difference is that sards have a collar (spacer) which sits between the injector and the fuel rail. ive got sards, works a treat :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry no - The sandtrap adventure ended the day, happened at the end of the last session. At that time I wasn't hearing any weird noises nor were the brakes shuddering anymore. It was only when watching the videos that I remembered I had these sounds early on!
    • Did the noise appear after your sand trap adventure? Could be something got dislodged and is playing rub rub. Even a rock wedged somewhere.
    • Is there a shroud around the tailshaft spline into the back of the box? They can rub and make a horrible noise if they are not on straight/damaged. The heat might have caused it to grow too much in one direction and rub.
    • Strangely I noticed it either disappear later in the day, or not be present. I definitely noticed when I was crawling around that open wheel thingy entering the pits (that part was audible in car). Driving home and commuting around town for example, I didn't hear it. It's plausible that it was a brake disc or something still slightly in contact. The brakes absolutely felt BAD for the first couple of sessions, huge amounts of shudder and grinding as they got up to temp - And then I actually just forgot about it as the day went on/didn't notice it. The videos were from the morning when this was more present than the afternoon/drive home when it wasn't. I've asked around and got a variety of responses including handbrake shoe contacting hub, CV joints, CB tailshaft bearing as above, and clutch input bearing. I didn't test if it disappeared when clutch was in. I haven't noticed it in any of the other videos nor did I notice it when driving to that extent. More or less hoping the microphone at the rear license plate giving some kind of clue of 'something' but it looks like "spin stuff and see if you can notice it" is the way forward here. I could be smart and use the gopro mic and re-mount it to that location to see if the sound is still present at low speed actually. Sounds like a decent test whenver I have the CBF'ness to drive the car again. Given it's almost 40C for the day of the track day and the next 3 days after, the CBF is high. All I've done since getting home is unpack the car, remove the remnants of the lip and undertray and left it there. I was surprised how well the PMU Club Racers actually worked. The brake performance on the track was absolutely fantastic, best I've ever personally used, no fade whatsoever and the bitiness was almost too good, I was scrubbing more speed off than I needed to, but I also ended up infield when I started trying to scrape off ... less speed.... so...
    • Not really, no. Anything you would do is easily reversible.
×
×
  • Create New...