Jump to content
SAU Community

S13/a31/c33 Type Front Suspensionbrakes Into R30 Questions

R30-RB30DET
 Share

Recommended Posts

R30-RB30DET Apprentice

R30-RB30DET

Posted
Posted

Hey people I have not posted on here for a long time but damn SDU is pretty dead these days and the oldskool section is fully dead except for me and stagefumer lol.

My question is with the S13 style front end into R30 I know its been done a million times but recently my mate(who knows what hes doing and builds custom/modifyed cars for a living) said he measured up for another guy and rekons that it is not ideal at all like all wrong angles etc etc but knowing that its been done before makes me wonder what the hell hes on about! And I have some S14 5 stud/4 pot front hubs and S13 struts which I will put new aftermarket inserts in, weld on adjustable sleeves and put on adjustable camber tops. What I want to know is what have peolpe here used for bottom arms and caster rods on a HR30's?? and has anyone experienced anything bad? or is there a thread on here about this allready? I have dummyed them up onto my standard arms as showen in the pic bellow but it does not look right lol! and theres a couple of other pics of my turbo(MP T61 650HP), wastegate(46mm DSR), intercooler(600x300x100), engine bay seem welding/strengthening & other stuff aswell if anyones interested.

S14R301-1.jpg

turbgatebov001.jpg

Picstosort004.jpg

Heapsapixs017.jpg

Mycarwith18x95meisteronit.jpg

OUTATIME Community Regular

OUTATIME

Posted
Posted

looks like a sweet project man.

as 4 the s13 stuff i put in my dr pretty much just bolted in (coilovers). used stocko caster rods and control arms. all i did was machine out the camber tops cos u have 2 mount them backwards (if using s13 stuff. can just get r30 ones) and then get stuff all - camber adjustment. drifted it at mallala and had no problems and came up fine when got a wheel alignment.

think stock s13 struts come up bit short but if gonna make em adjustable shouldnt have a problem man..

FJ20DR30 Community Regular

FJ20DR30

Posted
Posted

Good luck with the build mate looks like it will be a very cool car!

i want to do this to my DR30 Coupe so ill keep an eye on this

i cant help you on this, but i do have a dr30 sedan in NZ with rear brake cables and etc if you still want them? pm me!

Cheers Marc

FJ20DR30 Community Regular

FJ20DR30

Posted
Posted
i used s13 hubs and coilovers with all other suspension items standard r30 bits.

Sorry to jack the thread ..

Are you saying that you remove the little stub type mount (with vertical strut mounts standard R30 strut mount) from the bottom arm and then put a bottom stub axel (With Horizontal strut bolt holes from an S13) into the hole in the R30 bottom arm then simply get the S13 strut mount it to s13 the stub axel and modify the top hats?

Does what im saying make sense?

If so how is the geometry after doing so?

Marc

FJ20DR30 Community Regular

FJ20DR30

Posted
Posted (edited)
Standard s13 struts will be way too low, my s13 coilovers are pretty much wound up at max height and my car still sits fairly damn low.

^That being said can those mounts on the bottom control arms be swapped? Remove Dr30 put in S13 no machining ?

Thanks for your help

Edited by FJ20DR30
R34 Mentor

R34

Posted
Posted

I was warned off doing this conversion due to introduced problems with bump steer.

I've just stayed with new koni inserts and will get the DR30 struts converted to adjustible platform once the car is licensed.

stagefumer11 Rising Star

stagefumer11

Posted
Posted
I was warned off doing this conversion due to introduced problems with bump steer.

I've just stayed with new koni inserts and will get the DR30 struts converted to adjustible platform once the car is licensed.

isnt just down to the steering linkage angle.. There are some s13 tirerod ends (aftermarket) that flip the atachment point to the top of the linkage arm.. Eliminating bump steer

R30-RB30DET Apprentice

R30-RB30DET

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Haha wish those rims were mine but the are not unfortunatly there off my mates 180SX 18x9.5 Work Meisters but I will get something similar when shes nearly driving, FJ20DR30 thanks will PM you in a min, for a start I will just get the front 5 stud so I can get some nice wheels on there and because I have a shitload of 4 stud skid/drift wheels so gota use them up first then will do the back as thats way easyer to do as theres like 3 ways ya can do it and I have to get a expencive double caliper mount made for 2pot GTS25T calipers for the hydrolic hand brake and subaru leone front calipers for foot brake and cable parking handbrake, and yea bumbsteer is only to do with steering arm angle and what stagefumer said is what I will be doing anyway but I will be using a S13/A31/C33 steering rack most likley because the R30 steering box is a shocker and as for it being low well that is one of my biggest aims is to have it as low as its still able to be driven properly. Anyone got any pics of there setups ?

skybt1 Community Regular

skybt1

Posted
Posted
Sorry to jack the thread ..

Are you saying that you remove the little stub type mount (with vertical strut mounts standard R30 strut mount) from the bottom arm and then put a bottom stub axel (With Horizontal strut bolt holes from an S13) into the hole in the R30 bottom arm then simply get the S13 strut mount it to s13 the stub axel and modify the top hats?

Does what im saying make sense?

If so how is the geometry after doing so?

Marc

thats exactly what i did.

the guys that do the wheel alignment didnt mention anything about geometry to me.

The car drives fine and steers fine.

  • 2 weeks later...
blue 32 Contributor

blue 32

Posted
Posted
Standard s13 struts will be way too low, my s13 coilovers are pretty much wound up at max height and my car still sits fairly damn low.

did you have to modify the s13 coilovers to fit or did they go straight in. if modifying is needed is it able to be performed by anyone with a few tool skills.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Uncle Duncan Yeap, FI Interchiller  Works well, normal IAT's cruising with the WTA only went from 50°c+ to 25-30°c with the interchiller  Before, when on it hard, the IAT would see 80-90°c, now, the highest has been was around 38°c IIRC IAT is measured under the blower hat I recommend it for the street or strip where your only on it hard for 10 or so seconds, but it wouldn't be efficient for sustained track use as it would heat soak from the AC turning off or whatever it does during WOT to protect the compressor It really needs the AC running for it to not heat soak and keep the WTA coolant chilled My WTA coolant temps when just cruising is around 2°c
    • Duncan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By Duncan · Posted

      Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I've been pondering this, I really enjoy the convertible thing, for me, it's like riding a motorbike, without all the issue of riding a motorbike, mainly, my old sore arthritic joints getting beaten up, and, being able to do it in shorts and a T-shirt and not needing a helmet and all the other gear required, especially like wearing jackets and pants in the summer, or needing 6 layers of cloths in the winter, or not having wet weather gear handy when your 100km away from home on the bike when it decides to start raining As for the hard top and its Coupe look, whilst I do lose all that open top feeling that I really enjoy, from my experience with the NB with a detachable hard top, the cabin is a much nicer place to be, the difference in noise for one, a hard top quietens down the interior, alot, with the soft top up or down it's pretty noisy, which, after 5 or so hours, can get tiring But, as you stated, the detachable hard top totally changes the look of the car, in a really good way, and for me, the look of a detachable hard top is so much better than the PRHT which looks more like a after thought with its weird bulbous rear roof line For me, the minimal effort of putting in on, or storing it after removing it, is well worth the time and effort for the look alone And yes, I'm sure the next owner will be grateful for it as well.......  
    • Kinkstaah
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I get into huffs with people when I suggest the MX5 looks so much better as a coupe than it does as convertible. Pretty sure I don't prefer the convertible version of anything. Good job on the hardtop! The next buyer will appreciate.
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      IMO wrap does have its uses, but like you said, quality wrap, and professional installation, would probably cost want a quality paint job does, but, the paint, if maintained, is basically for life, and much easier to touch up if required  In other news: it's pissing down here, with thunder, lightning and only some small hail "at this stage", luckily all "my" cars are undercover  I've also been contacted by a guy in Newcastle about the SS, he said he will come down next weekend for a look, we'll see how that transpires I guess 🫰
×
×
  • Create New...