Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there guys...

Mind my ignorance but i have done and installation in my 33 where i have custom made two 12Inch boxes to reverse mount the subs on each side of the boot.

Now the problem im having is that once the boot is opened i loose about 60-70% of bass... I understand that the subs are using the actual volume of the boot to produce the bass but how is it that show cars which have inverted subwoofers produce that huge bass....? the fibreglass enclosures i made are roughly 24L which is what is specified for the pioneer subs...

The subs themselves are 500w RMS each running of a 1000w RMS D class monoblock.....

However i think its nothing to do with the actual power side of things more to do with, volumes and porting or not porting... i assume???? My enclosures are sealed by the way but any help or advice would be appreciated as its frustrating me lolz....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272905-invert-mounting-of-subs/
Share on other sites

The inversion of the subs will only effect the enclosure volume(As in magnets are not longer taking up enclosure space).

You are also wrong in saying the subs are now using the boot as the enclosure.

The show cars will have systems that are alot more powerfull that yours to produce the open boot results

Make sure they're wired OUT of phase if they are inverted

ie. cone still moves away from the box when the bass hits

By opening the boot you are also loosing any pressure that is in the cabin which can be why a lot of subs may appear to sound like poo once you pop the boot.

Very loosely put, the more pressure that is inside the cabin the louder it is going to be.

Having a quality sub box is more important than the sub itself or just as. Generally porting is more efficient = louder with less power but if the sub is not designed for a ported box it may end up being worse off.

If you're going to give a demo give it inside the car or just open the window/door?

Edited by G2GLOL

I understand what your saying, i have made sure that they are out of phase so that they are firing into the enclosure... hmmm i shall keep doin more research into thanks guys...

Anymore advice would be greatly appreciated.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was planning on getting an R35 MAF and the adapter, should this be okay? Also any idea where I could get my hands on an intake pipe?
    • I mean yes, if you're starting from scratch on an unknown engine yes you don't need to be doing all kinds of math in the background but if you're doing relatively minor changes like AFM + injectors + boost up with some aftermarket turbos it takes quite a bit of math if you want to do something like maintain OEM fuel + timing tables but compressed and then a bit more load scale up top. I think I've spent too much time working on big engineering nightmares though so I'm a big fan of trying to constrain the scope of whatever work I'm doing as much as possible and trying to get it right before moving on. For example, a local owner just did the usual E85 + single turbo conversion to his R32 GTR and nearly burned his car to the ground doing some spirited driving up the local mountains. Turbine is unshielded and too close to the hood insulation. It's tough to balance "just get the project done" and "seemingly small details can cause massive setbacks I'm not willing to deal with".
    • No idea about Neil's steering wheel, but I have the same behaviour in the Stagea. I doubt it has ever been messed with so might be normal. Indicating to turn right at a roundabout and correcting even a little bit to the left to go around will cancel the indicator. Never considered it an issue other than it being a bit odd.
    • Does anyone know if this is off centered? Looks like it, when I indicate to go right, but turn my steering wheel slightly left it cancels (was always like that even before I started messing around with it) was wondering if anyone else has the same issue?
    • Nothing photo worthy since last update, lots of little plumbing bits for the AAC/Cold start valves, and unfortunately I still need another couple of parts for the brake booster line and the AAC into the plenum. Otherwise it all looks good to start up engine wise, onto checking the electrics/interior
×
×
  • Create New...