Jump to content
SAU Community

Help Please, Can Someone Please Lend Rb26 Coil Pack Module?...

VSPEC-33

By VSPEC-33,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

VSPEC-33 Community Regular

VSPEC-33

Posted
Posted

I'm hoping someone in Vic might have a coil pack resistor for an RB26 that I can borrow for 5 mins. The R is running on 5 cylinders atm.

Basically, i've narrowed it down to cylinder no 6 (unplug the lead to the coil pack and it idles/runs the same). I've changed the spark plugs (no change), bought new splitfires (no change, dammit!) and its still not right. Running a test light to the lead to no 6 coilpack it is getting power, but wouldnt register the triggering signal (terminal E on coilpack). So the way i figure it, it should be the module, or the coil pack wiring loom. It went from running perfectly when i parked it, to running on 5 the next time i started it (2 weeks later) and the only thing i did was disconnect/reconnect the battery in between.

I'm hoping someone can lend me one, plug it in for 2 seconds, if it runs on 6 cylinders i'll then go looking for one a wreckers and i've solved my dramas. I cant afford to buy one at a wrecker and for it to not fix the problem. Funds are too low to keep splashing cash.

If you can help at all it would appreciated.

Cheers

post-16627-1243945077_thumb.jpg

VSPEC-33 Community Regular

VSPEC-33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Did you test for continuity from the ignitor plug to the coilpack plug in the coilpack loom?

No I haven't, how do I check that? I'm a beginner at this sort of stuff.

femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted

Yeah RB20 one will be the same.

I have no idea whether E or (-) is the trigger (my guess would be (E)), but one of those should run to one of the wires at the front side of the ignitor. So just go through all 12 combinations with everything disconnected.

If you dont have continuity through one of the wires then theres a prob with the loom. If you do have continuity its either the ignitor, ECU loom, or ECU.

VSPEC-33 Community Regular

VSPEC-33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Mat, got a multi meter from one of the guys at work so i'll take a crack at it this weekend.

I've got an RB20 ignitor box but it doesnt look the same, if the connectors plug in do you do reckon its safe to give it a crack? I dont want to fry anything...

W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted

the part number you need is 22020-05U00 most likely the rb20 one will have a part number of 22020-05U10 but by the look of nissan fast some later model rd20det's came with the gtr module so you might get lucky, i would not use anything but the U00 one.

VSPEC-33 Community Regular

VSPEC-33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Spent the last hour or so with the multi meter on the GTR.

There was continuity on all the wires on the loom from the module to the coil packs, so that loom is ruled out. Cylinder 6 gave all the same responses as the other working cylinders.

I unplugged the Power FC and tested continuity from the terminals from the ECU connnector (using R33 GTR ECU pinout diagram) cylinders 1-6 to the loom that plugs into the coil module. Again all was good.

I plugged in the old standard Nissan ECU (i'm supprised that it ran at all with bigger afm's and injectors!) and it still wont fire on cylinder 6.

So the ECU is sending the signal, the main loom is sending it to the connector at the back of the coil module, and the loom on the other half of the module is ending it to the coilpack. That leaves (from what I can tell) just the module itself. Its getting orders from the ECU but not sending it on the coil no 6.

The RB20 module I had looked the same, but the connectors were different (the plastic guides, pins looked the same) so i couldnt test with it. So i might just bite the bullet and buy one from a wreckers and hope that the process of elimination was correct :P

The only other option if its not the module, it it could be injector no 6 (Nismo's I bought new and have only been in the car for 2 - 3 thousand kilometers) or the the signal going goin to it.....

I'll try to totally rule out ignition issues then move on to the injectors next.

VSPEC-33 Community Regular

VSPEC-33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
what about the coil its self?

Try swapping it with another cylinder, if the cylinder you swapped it with is then not firing then its the coil pack.

I bought a set of brand new Splitfire coils and fitted them, no diffence at all, definitely not the coils.

And I havent done a comp test because I cant see how i could blow a piston/ring when starting at car. It was perfect the last time i drove it when it was parked. On startup the next time, she was running on 5 cylinders. I cant see how it could have mechanincally failed so bad. If electrics arent to blame then youre right, i'll give it a comp test to check if its all good.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions guys, keep them comin!

  • 4 weeks later...
VSPEC-33 Community Regular

VSPEC-33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Found out what was actually causing the car to run rough. Turns out the inlet manifold gasket had let go into cylinder no6.

Never heard of that happening before, i expected it to be electrical or fuel related, oh well at least its running again. I finally get to drive it after about 3 months...... Cant wait :huh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pac
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By Pac · Posted

      Good afternoon Team , just a quick update on performance mods  Current Mods list (Installed) HKS - Power Editor (Came with the car) looks to be some kind of boost controller RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Cat Back  RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Front Pipe AMS  - INFINITI Q50/Q60 RED ALPHA COLD AIR INTAKE KIT AMS  - Performance Heat Exchanger Intercooler Not Yet AMS Alpha Performance Full Race Down Pipes  - to be installed in May 
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'd be installing 2x widebands and using the NB simulation outputs to the ECU.
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, it's different across different engines and as the years went on. R32 era RB20, and hence also RB26, the TPS SWITCH is the idle command. The variable resistor is only for the TCU, as you say. On R33 era RB25 and onwards (but probably not RB26, as they still used the same basic ECU from the R32 era), the idle command is a voltage output of close to 0.45V from the variable resistor.
    • dbm7
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By dbm7 · Posted

      It's actually one of the worst bits of Nissan nomenclature (also compounded by wiring diagrams when the TCU is incorporated in ECU, or, ECU has a passthru to a standalone TCU).... the gripe ~ they call it the TPS, but with an A/T it's actually a combined unit ...TPS (throttle position switch) + TPS (throttle position sensor).... ..by the looks of it (and considering car is A/T) you have this unit... https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/2262002u11 The connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit, is the TPS (throttle position sensor) ...only the TCU reads this. The connector on the unit body, is the TPS (throttle position switch) ...ECU reads this. It has 3 possible values -- throttle closed (idle control contact), open (both contacts open, ECU controls engine...'run' mode), and WOT (full throttle contact closed, ECU changes mapping). When the throttle is closed (idle control contact), this activates what the patent describes as the 'anti stall system' ~ this has the ECU keep the engine at idling speed, regardless of additional load/variances (alternator load mostly, along with engine temp), and drives the IACV solenoid with PWM signal to adjust the idle air admittance to do this. This is actually a specific ECCS software mode, that only gets utilized when the idle control contact is closed. When you rotate the TPS unit as shown, you're opening the idle control contact, which puts ECCS into 'run' mode (no idle control), which obviously is a non-sequitur without the engine started/running ; if the buzzing is coming from the IACV solenoid, then likely ECCS is freaking out, and trying to raise engine rpm 'any way it can'...so it's likely pulling the valve wide open....this is prolly what's going on there. The signal from the connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit (for the TCU), should be around 0.4volts with the throttle closed (idle position) ~ although this does effect low throttle shift points if set wrong, the primary purpose here is to tell TCU engine is at idle (no throttle demand), and in response lower the A/T line pressure ... this is often described as how much 'creep' you get with shifter in D at idle. The way the TPS unit is setup (physically), ensures the idle control contact closes with a high margin on the TPSensor signal wire, so you can rotate the unit on the adjustment slots, to achieve 0.4v whilst knowing the idle control contact is definitely closed. The IACV solenoid is powered by battery voltage via a fuse, and ground switched (PWM) by the ECU. When I check them, I typically remove the harness plug, feed the solenoid battery voltage and switch it to ground via a 5watt bulb test probe ; thing should click wide open, and idle rpm should increase... ...that said though, if it starts & idles with the TPS unit disconnected, and it still stalls when it gets up to operating temperature, it won't be the IACV because it's unused, which would infer something else is winking out...  
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      In the context of cam 'upgrader' I mean generally people who upgrade headers/cams - not my specific change. I mean it makes sense that if I had a bigger cam, I may get more false lean readings. So if I went smaller, I'd get less false lean readings. To a point where perhaps stock.. I'd have no false lean readings, according to the ECU. But I'm way richer than stock. My bigger than normal cam in the past also was giving false rich leanings. It's rather odd and doesn't add up or pass the pub test. Realistically what I want is the narrowbands to effectively work as closed loop fuel control and keep my AFR around 14.7 on light sections of the map. Which is of course the purpose of narrowband CL fuel control. So if I can change the switch points so the NB's target 14.7 (as read by my WB) then this should be fine. Haven't actually tested to see what the changed switchpoints actually result in - car needs to be in a position it can idle for awhile to do that. I suspect it will be a troublesome 15 min drive home with lots of stalling and way too rich/lean transient nightmare bucking away for that first drive at 2am or whevener it ends up being. Hopefully it's all tune-able. Realistically it should be. This is a very mild cam.
×
×
  • Create New...