Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

My fuel pump just died on me (rip)

Need a new one,

BUT WHERE TO FIND THEM IN PERTH ASAP??

i had and might get a : Walbro 500HP In-Tank Fuel Pump

or should i get the

Bosch 040 Fuel Pump (been told a harder to fit)

if anyone can give me details on where to find one OR if anyone is selling one Will buy asap,

Thankyou

- RICCA

0401 264 192

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273178-fuel-pump/
Share on other sites

you know bosch doesnt rate their pumps by hp they rate them by flowrates, id assume walbro does the same, I wonder then who decides to start rating them by hp?

I'd assume horses for courses, as long as you dont get a knock off pump thats floating around on ebay you should be fine surely.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273178-fuel-pump/#findComment-4636835
Share on other sites

I had a Bosch in-take pump fitted to my car after my original pump died as well.

One thing I have found, was that my new pump is a lot louder compared to my original Nissan pump. You can hear it pumping when you have the doors open.

Otherwise its working all fine.

Edited by Mayuri Krab
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273178-fuel-pump/#findComment-4636957
Share on other sites

i had the 040 in my r32 i think they the way to go,goodluck

Yeah i have one in my s14a, they are loud, im not sure if its the same for the r33 but when you install them on s14s you have to butcher the bracket so its basically a piece of flat bar, and hoseclamp the pump to it, i used some 6mm efi hose to line the hoseclamp, so much quieter than the first time i put it in.

Also used stainless 'glenlock' nuts, basically nylocs with a metal insert instead of nylon, to hold the terminals i made on.

If you are a cluey person and know your way around a basic toolbox you can fit an 040 yourself, I found it simple.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273178-fuel-pump/#findComment-4638483
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...