Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

just do the little things dude, take it step by step u learn to appreciate each mod that way........well thats what happened for me anyway.......

if u r happy to wait a few months i should have my extractors up for sale if u wanna get some customs ones :bunny:

First off Without seeing me drive how can you make an automatic assumption of my driving skills?

Your question about how to hit 225kW from an RB25DE while staying all motor tells me enough about your motoring knowledge.

The fact that you're on your P's tells me about your driving experience.

I'm making a hypothesis. I would love for you to prove me wrong.

Ive re- thought maybe around 150kw. smarter?

At the flywheel or rear wheels? At the flywheel a stock RB25DE is practically there. At the rear wheels, if MissR34's mod list to power output is any indication you're still going to struggle to hit 150rwkW on a low budget.

There's not much you can do over her setup without opening the engine. I don't think cams alone will find 15% on a NA car unless you get more RPM. And, being an R34, her engine will be a lot fresher than yours.

hes a point

120rwkw is around 150kw at the flywheel.

if u want around that much ur gonna have to open her up and do cams and porting etc if you want to make 150rwkw

Edited by MissR34
Hehe another keyboard warrior. And you're another person automatically assumes things.. how sad... im surprised that you even bothered commenting when you knew that you were going use an aggressive stance

Look, mate, I wasn't flaming, but somone should expect a flaming if they jump on a forum and suggest something ridiculous: such as an unopened 225 RWkW's from an N/A R33.

I was stating facts: 90% of p platers seem to assume they are Michael Schumacher, surveys carried out by various sources including the csiro have shown that the vast majority of p plate drivers when asked to self assess their own driving skill respond with "above average".

If you have track experience, have spent much of your life around cars and so forth, good on you and I retract any hint of you being a poor driver - which I never said in the first place. I have been driven around some tracks by some excellent p plater drivers who made me nearly poop myself. However they had grown up in families with strong motorsport ties.

Plus right back at you: you call me a keyboard warrior and have no idea what I do or have done. If your going to take the higher ground at least be intelligent about it.

Looking at some subsequent posts by yourself I can tell you have realised your original goal, and as a matter of fact your secondary goal of 150 RWkW probably won't happen - N/A wise the best you can hope for (I would say) is something similar to what Miss R34 has and even then it would probably be down on her figures anyhow: older engine, less technologically advanced etc.

The formula for N/A power is simple and it is stickied on the N/A page:

exhaust - extractors 3-2-1 type, 2 1/2 inch exhaust mandrel bent with high flow cat, middle resonator and a nice muffler

intake - high flow panel because as a p plater cops WILL defect you for a pod

cams - tomei poncams or similar

fueling - GT-R fuel pump or walboro, along with GT-T injectors

Ecu - Power FC if manual Greddy E-manage Ultimate if auto

Argue over appropriate exhaust size or extractor type if you want but its essentially the same formula as modifying any carb fed V8 - more exhaust flow, more intake flow, more fuel, higher RPM, and more control.

Your question about how to hit 225kW from an RB25DE while staying all motor tells me enough about your motoring knowledge.

The fact that you're on your P's tells me about your driving experience.

I'm making a hypothesis. I would love for you to prove me wrong.

At the flywheel or rear wheels? At the flywheel a stock RB25DE is practically there. At the rear wheels, if MissR34's mod list to power output is any indication you're still going to struggle to hit 150rwkW on a low budget.

There's not much you can do over her setup without opening the engine. I don't think cams alone will find 15% on a NA car unless you get more RPM. And, being an R34, her engine will be a lot fresher than yours.

hes a point

120rwkw is around 150kw at the flywheel.

if u want around that much ur gonna have to open her up and do cams and porting etc if you want to make 150rwkw

Look, mate, I wasn't flaming, but somone should expect a flaming if they jump on a forum and suggest something ridiculous: such as an unopened 225 RWkW's from an N/A R33.

I was stating facts: 90% of p platers seem to assume they are Michael Schumacher, surveys carried out by various sources including the csiro have shown that the vast majority of p plate drivers when asked to self assess their own driving skill respond with "above average".

If you have track experience, have spent much of your life around cars and so forth, good on you and I retract any hint of you being a poor driver - which I never said in the first place. I have been driven around some tracks by some excellent p plater drivers who made me nearly poop myself. However they had grown up in families with strong motorsport ties.

Plus right back at you: you call me a keyboard warrior and have no idea what I do or have done. If your going to take the higher ground at least be intelligent about it.

Looking at some subsequent posts by yourself I can tell you have realised your original goal, and as a matter of fact your secondary goal of 150 RWkW probably won't happen - N/A wise the best you can hope for (I would say) is something similar to what Miss R34 has and even then it would probably be down on her figures anyhow: older engine, less technologically advanced etc.

The formula for N/A power is simple and it is stickied on the N/A page:

exhaust - extractors 3-2-1 type, 2 1/2 inch exhaust mandrel bent with high flow cat, middle resonator and a nice muffler

intake - high flow panel because as a p plater cops WILL defect you for a pod

cams - tomei poncams or similar

fueling - GT-R fuel pump or walboro, along with GT-T injectors

Ecu - Power FC if manual Greddy E-manage Ultimate if auto

Argue over appropriate exhaust size or extractor type if you want but its essentially the same formula as modifying any carb fed V8 - more exhaust flow, more intake flow, more fuel, higher RPM, and more control.

At the fly wheel would be fine. Im not here to start an argument really. I'm sorry if i showed that impression. It just kicks my head in that some people don't read and keep going on about how i want to make 225kw right after i clearly stated that i changed my mind. Yes 225kw for a NA 2.5L is almost too stupid to even think about that is why i changed it. Thankyou for all you inputs ill try to do whatever i can to get the most out of the RB

Wow, I think this is the first case where I've seen someone on here ask how to get a stupid figure, get flamed, then actually take on information and learn from it!

I like you mate, good luck with it all ;)

My vote is on save for a GTR, definately the best option available... Any money spent on the GTS will be lost instantly when you sell it.

Wow, I think this is the first case where I've seen someone on here ask how to get a stupid figure, get flamed, then actually take on information and learn from it!

I like you mate, good luck with it all ;)

My vote is on save for a GTR, definately the best option available... Any money spent on the GTS will be lost instantly when you sell it.

+1 

Good on you for learning! Its what we are all doing really, I honestly thought this would be another "locked by admin" thread.

Go a gtr or gtst once your off your p's. Especially now R33 GT-R's are getting so cheap, give it twelve/twenty four months and they will be cheaper again.

My advice:

Pop a cat-back on it to get a bit of noise to improve the experience of driving your car, and leave it at that. Save up for the GT-R. Take the money you have left over and do some track days.

To be blunt, aiming for a specific power figure is meaningless. A dyno can be made to read almost anything the operator wants it to by doing things your average person isn't going to notice is incorrect.

Since its unlikely you'll ever get the car to hit your legislative power/weight limit the actual power your car makes is of little actual interest. Make it fun, and save your cash for a better base to tune.

Before i leave however i would like to thank Scathing, R33_dude, DRD-00F, Miss R34, Dori34, WYTSKY, J3TR33 and Benzino33. Thankyou for actually helping me and not just flaming me and leave or being immature like some people here. You're all now my inspiration to learn more and get better :D THANKYOU!!! :D

Awwww..

There's a sad sort of clanging

From the clock in the hall

And the bells in the steeple too,

And up in the nurs'ry an absurd little bird

Is popping out to say "coocoo".

Regretfully they tell us,

But firmly they compel us

To say goodby to you.

So long, farewell, Auf wiedersehen, good night,

I hate to go and leave this pretty sight.

So long, farewell, Auf wiedersehen, adieu,

Adieu, adieu, to yieu and yieu and yieu.

So long, farewell, Au'voir, auf wiedersehen,

I'd like to stay and taste my first champagne

So long, farewell, Auf wiedersehen, goodbye,

I leave and heave a sigh and say goodbye,

Good bye

I'm glad to go,

I cannot tell a lie.

I flit, I float,

I fleetly flee, I fly.

The sun has gone to bed and so must I

So long, farewell, auf wiedersehen, goodbye,

Goodbye,

Goodbye,

Goodbye!

You will be missed, almost everyone gets a warning or 2 around here, no biggy

Edited by madbung
Awwww..

There's a sad sort of clanging

From the clock in the hall

And the bells in the steeple too,

And up in the nurs'ry an absurd little bird

Is popping out to say "coocoo".

Regretfully they tell us,

But firmly they compel us

To say goodby to you.

So long, farewell, Auf wiedersehen, good night,

I hate to go and leave this pretty sight.

So long, farewell, Auf wiedersehen, adieu,

Adieu, adieu, to yieu and yieu and yieu.

So long, farewell, Au'voir, auf wiedersehen,

I'd like to stay and taste my first champagne

So long, farewell, Auf wiedersehen, goodbye,

I leave and heave a sigh and say goodbye,

Good bye

I'm glad to go,

I cannot tell a lie.

I flit, I float,

I fleetly flee, I fly.

The sun has gone to bed and so must I

So long, farewell, auf wiedersehen, goodbye,

Goodbye,

Goodbye,

Goodbye!

You will be missed, almost everyone gets a warning or 2 around here, no biggy

hahah thankyou madbung :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey @Butters, did you end up getting this clutch in ? I have just ordered to a uniclutch track to go in my getrag 6 speed that’s in my BNR 32     
    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
×
×
  • Create New...