Another Timing Belt Question

[s13_Skyline_inside]

how do you guys who use two tensioners go about mounting the lower tensioner without it sitting at an angle, I was thinking fill up some weld on the block and make it smooth. the reason i want to use two tensioners is because with two tensioners you can have the right belt tension and not have either of the tensioners fould on the case without cutting into it. I was also thinking of cutting a notch into the base of the tensioner so it clears what im assuming to be an oil gallery but then it would site back a few mil,

any input is appreciated

[s13_Skyline_inside]

ok well ive been looking into it more and found a few pics of rb30's rb25's and rb26's where there is a machined surface where the idler normally goes (where i want to mount my lower tensioner) but mine is not a machined flat surface, its got the hole with a thread in it for the idler, but yeh my engine has already gone together, any idea's on what i can use or do

[leeroy_25]

Hey there buddy..

i was in the same boat a few weeks ago! I had forgotten to sort it when the block was stripped too so it was even worse..

here is what I did:

I measured how far out the surface of the block need to come to meet level with the other tension position. then I got a large flat washer of the appropriate thickness and diameter and using some metal paste bonded it to the block using a a bolt to align it to the existing hole and another flat washer to try and get it bonded somewhere near square. I used paste as 1) my block is built and didn't want to start welding it. 2) I think welding cast is a bit of a trick from what I have heard!

At this point if your block is not built then you can throw it up on a mill and mill over the washer to get the height and flatness perfect. Alternatively I made a 10mm pilot shaft which I screwed into the block and then turned up a bar with a nuts on 10mm reamed hole through it to locate on the pilot shaft and OD to match the washer. I then made an attachment to fit the block into a hand drill and mounted some coarse grit wet and dry to the end of the block.. Slide the block over the shaft and sand away until you get a shiny clean sand surface all around your washer.. Then it's square! Job done!

I will try and post picks later if you need as I have not got around to doing a build thread yet.

Good luck

Lee

[s13_Skyline_inside]

pics would be great, kinda good to see im not alone on this lol, its not in the car yet but its built and sitting on the engine stand at home, I was thinking alnong the same lines but getting a thick washer and trimming the washer to sit nice and flat around the hole, then get it welded to the bottom of the tensioner, i realize that after ive done this i wont be able to adjust the tensioner but it wont matter if i get it where i want it, then the adjustment can be made through the top tensioner, and yes it did take me ages to sleep last night with this going through my head

Edited June 5, 2009 by s13_Skyline_inside

[proengines]

I've made a 10mm plate which bolts to the original tensioner and 6mm stud holes then cut 10mm off the back of the tensioner and bolt it to the hole on the exhaust side of the belt. I have a cad drawing of it here somewhere I could post up if you like. This is to use with the top mount tensioner setup.

[Adriano]

Wouldn't it be easier to use a high mount tensioner

[s13_Skyline_inside]

i am using a high mount tensioner and a low mount so i can fit them behind the covers without cutting them, as it stands at the moment i cant mount a idler or a tensioner in the lower position, would be great to post the cad pics but i wouldnt know what to do with them would be worth a look though.

I was thinking of using some of the epoxy metal stuff, cant rember what the real name of it is though, comes in a tube like a Plasticine, getting a threaded dowel, screwing it into the block, wrap some tin foil around it or lube it up with some vaso so the epoxy doesnt stick to it, have a large washer and a nut, anyway put the epoxy around the dowel to cover an area big enough to mount the tensioner on, then screwing the nut and washer down to the right height so it creates a flat surface on the epoxy, let it set then screw the dowel out and then screw a bolt through the tensioner, hardened epoxy and into the block.

this should work as long as the hardened epoxy can stand up to the engine heat an oil if any gets on it. I'll have to read up on it at work tomorrow.

[s13_Skyline_inside]

ok i sorted it, read up on the epoxy and it can withstand up to 170 degree's C, HSN timing belt that the rb's use can withstand up to 130 degree's C so im sure it would be fine to use, but I didnt use it cause i wasnt sure about the heat till i got home and referenced of the timing belt box. Anyway what I did was use three large washers, cut just into the hole on two of them and then the last one stayed whole which came to the perfect hight and was flat against the block.

just thought I'd say what I did with the situation incase anyone else does a search with the same problem, thanks for the input leeroy and pro engines, helped with my thoughts

[s13_Skyline_inside]

oh and by using two tensioners i can get a good belt tension and still fit it all behind the covers without modifying them, now to make up a fibreglass plate to cover the hole so i can make the 3ltr conversion a bit less obvious