Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I think I can shed some more light on this whole thread. For those that havent met me, I am Trent, owner of Mercury Motorsport. Just for the record I didn't want these dyno graphs to be posted because I dont want this to turn into a workshop vs workshop shit fight. All of the workshops need to get along and I know that we have a fantastic relationship with Godzilla Motorsport as well as a great respect for CNJ and their work.

With the GTR in question, there was nothing really tunable on the car apart from the boost controller, camshaft timing and the CAS. From my understanding, the car was taken to Godzilla shortly after it arrived in the country to "see how it goes". Then after some driving around, the car was up for sale. Now with the mods involved on this car, there was some visual inspections required to prove that parts were in fact in the engine etc, so that the owner could sell it knowing that he was in fact providing what he was told was in the car during the import process. The owner told me various parts had been removed/reinstalled etc so when the car was taken to CNJ stuff had been "fiddled with". The whole reason it went back on the dyno was to show the potential buyer that it was the real deal and unfortunately it didn't make the power at CNJ. I believe they ran out of time (was a friday arvo) and the buyer was only in town until saturday arvo (arrived friday) so I offered the use of our dyno on the saturday morning to see if we could help.

When the car was on our dyno, it did indeed make the same power as CNJ's graph from the day before, so we set about looking over the car to try and find what was wrong with it. We pressure tested it for leaks, found none, checked the boost controller and ecu, removed the timing cover to check camshaft timing. All appeared satisfactory. In talking to the owner we realised that the CAS had been disturbed since its visit at Godzilla (removed the covers to inspect the cams and belt) so over a few runs we added more overall ignition timing (all the while checking for detonation) and made significant gains along the way. We also made a few cam gear adjustments but to no gain, so we put it back to where it was and ended up on 514hp (customer requested imperial units) and as he was in a rush to take the buyer for a drive, we left it at that.

At the end of the day, I was just happy to help and get the power back to the same as when the car first arrived from Japan and to have another happy customer.

With the GTR in question, there was nothing really tunable on the car apart from the boost controller, camshaft timing and the CAS.

Haha no ECU? No wonder the tunes were so cheap, they didnt even touch the ECU!

You really should have mentioned this before posting them as 'tunes'.

Tool.

sorry but I don't see how an untuned standard ecu will make 370rwkw no matter what else has been done

I believe it is a chipped ECU done in Japan for its setup, similar to mines however another brand.

well strike me down if the full story isn't completely farken different to the first one. so the real answer is:

the car was dyno checked (not tuned) at godzilla and made X amount of power

the car was fiddled with including cas being misaligned resulting in base timiing being out.

car was driven to CNJ again to be dyno checked. car was massively down on power but of course it was as it was in a different configuration and on a different dyno

car was driven to mercury where the story came out about what it had been through and where the problem may well be. problem was fixed car was back to it's original performance.

I think the main issue here is someone needs to understand the definition of a tune.

If someone can tell me what it takes to tune chicks yo then i am all ears :D

if I knew that I would not have to ask you for sleep overs at your place whenever i'm in melbourne... oh the shame.

So what are you saying?

You took it to 3 of the best tuners in QLD and non of them can tune a stock ecu

:D

PM me if you like to know who can give your Nissan ecu a tune

MercuryMotorsportPosted 15 Jun 2009, 03:23 PM QUOTE (Duncan @ 15 Jun 2009, 02:58 PM) post_snapback.gifsorry but I don't see how an untuned standard ecu will make 370rwkw no matter what else has been done

I believe it is a chipped ECU done in Japan for its setup, similar to mines however another brand.

Its not a stock ECU

Edited by Brandon

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is awesome.     
    • Thanks for the quick replies guys its appreciated. A small extension was welded onto the standard 6boost external gate pipe which you can see where the pipe goes from black to stainless just below and to the right of the rear housing in the first picture. Overall I would say the flow is pretty good other than 6boosts choice to come straight off the collector at a decent angle.. Not sure why I went with two valves, I originally replaced the stock twin bovs with the GFB when I had the twins on. When I purchased the EFR it came with the Turbosmart Kompact BOV so I figured that would be a better option than the stock EFR Bov. I don't believe the Turbosmart BOV is adjustable? When I get the spike and then sudden dip in boost pressure, the turbo speed does drop as well. Stock head size wise however I believe it has Neo Turbo springs and a Neo Turbo intake camshaft and an aftermarket exhaust camshaft in the vicinity of 260 degrees. We didn't try a different MAC valve, we tried two different ways of plumbing it and we also tried removing the mac valve entirely and just having the boost source from the turbo directly connected to the wastegate and it still spiked / dropped and exhibited the same behaviour. Standard R33 GTR 5 speed tansmission. I'm running a Haltech Elite 2500 and can provide some logs if you. I understand what you're saying in that it looks like an auto plot however no, it's still a manual and it just has a lot of torque down low, for all intents and purposes it's a very impressive street car. I've attached a photo of the quickbitz dyno plot which was when the only difference is I was running -5 twin turbos with a mac valve. As you can see theres a decent dip in AFRs between 125kmh and 135kmh. Our problem now is not that the AFRs are dropping, just the boost pressure is dropping, however it is evident in the same RPM range of the map, coincidentally or not.
    • What transmission are you running?  It's a bit tricky with the scaling, but at face value the power "curve" looks more like a "line" which is a bit odd... basically a lot more like a dyno plot I'd expect with a highish (compared to a factory auto) stall torque converter type setup. If this is running an auto then this kind of boost control challenge is definitely a thing, the rpm scale on the dyno doesn't reflect what the engine is actually doing (unless the dyno has access to the engine's ACTUAL speed electronically) and what you'll get is a big rpm flare up as the engine torque launches past the converter pump's ability to resist torque at that rpm, then as the converter starts picking up rpm it will kinda even out again and the engine rpm will pick up more steadily. The trick with this "flare up" is if it's kinda near the boost threshold for the turbo then the engine's airflow requirements to maintain the previous boost level will outrun the turbo's ability to supply that boost - so you end up with a natural flattening off, if not dip when that happens.   If you are running closed loop, or even tune the "feed forward" wastegate duty cycle to deal with that rpm spike then when the engine starts settling to a more typical climb you'll actually have a situation where the gate is "too closed" and boost will run away for a bit, then have to pull down again.      It's not trivial to get this perfect as most boost control systems are generally expecting more predictable engine rpm rates of change, but if you *know* that's whats going on then you can at least "accept your fate" and realise getting that area perfect is kinda chasing your tail a bit, and assume that if the rest is working sensibly and the spike/dip isn't completely uncontrolled then you should be good. Sorry if I've gone off on a tangent, but the dyno plot and boost control behaviour look a LOT like what I've seen tuning autos in the past. What ECU are you running? Could possibly be convinced into looking at logs if I get too bored this weekend haha.
    • A few things that seem a bit off here. - why is there 2 BOV’s?  - the turbo smart BOV on the compressor housing, is it turned up ALL the way? I have seen this become an issue on old man Pete’s car. It would push open and recirc, turbo speed would rise and the boost pressure would do weird things. - stock head? Does that include springs? - tried a different MAC valve? Is it plumbed correctly?
    • Photo of manifold showing gate location? I mean, it's 6Boost, so we probably shouldn't be worrying, but always wroth knowing what the layout is. Plumbed back to atmosphere? Or into the dump?
×
×
  • Create New...