Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 245
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

LOL

So.....how do you find time to work on all these vehicles??

I mean...what if I was to ask you to build me a motor, when you going to find the time?? LOL

Mate i'd love a steer but i'd be too scared!

Will be good to catch up on friday mate!

and still cant wait to see the new project/keep following it, sounds awesome!

I dunno where the time comes from. I work all day and then end up stuffing around with other stuff when I get home.

I don't really build any engines anymore, I sublet all the machining to the one person I trust and I only do the final assembly after its been checked and pre-assembled. Duncan's are a love job, and its easy cause the sealer lives over the hill from me.

Its actually not that scary to drive. The biggest thing is maintaining corner speed and the acceleration when you mash the throttle can be daunting at first. We have worn the transfer case out so its currently a RWD POS. Its alot harder to drive atm but besides the wheel spin its okay.

Friday after the track day your welcome to drop past home and have alook at it, should be totally gutted and stripped down by then.

Yea I'm out of the S13 as well,,,he's sending me pics,,,but just the seat cut outs turn me off,,,Oh well I'll keep looking,,,no way am I building from scratch.

I don't have your access to plasma cutters and the like at the moment young Brad,,,but it will happen.

I'm after another Sporty but after the Capri it has to be a Nissan with Nissan power.

At least now the Sports Sedan guy's have a half desent web site to interact.

Neil.

The photos are not great Neil.

chassis/engine mounting/position/diff etc etc its all pretty much "home grown"

Duncan and I were talking about it again today.

Take a close look when you get photos at the wishbone design. We'll discus it off air!

Plus its Chromolly tube frame. Everyone knows how much of a head f**k chromolly chassis are when they age and start cracking.

Id rather the engine mounted so you dont have to cut the seat which was my comment previously about mounting the engine the right way. He'll also send you a inventory which clearly says ASTRON turbo not RB25.

The photos are not great Neil.

chassis/engine mounting/position/diff etc etc its all pretty much "home grown"

Duncan and I were talking about it again today.

Take a close look when you get photos at the wishbone design. We'll discus it off air!

Plus its Chromolly tube frame. Everyone knows how much of a head f**k chromolly chassis are when they age and start cracking.

Id rather the engine mounted so you dont have to cut the seat which was my comment previously about mounting the engine the right way. He'll also send you a inventory which clearly says ASTRON turbo not RB25.

Mate you can also mount the engine off to one side of the chassis and angle the tailshaft...

I also looked at the s13 some of the designing was below standard , he had to change to the astron because the rb in the end wouldn't physically fit.

Thats exactly what I plan to do with this car. Ill mount the engine as low as possible with the dry sump pan and angle the tail shaft as little as possible to make it work the way it should.

I mentioned earlier that to fit an RB into that chassis it would need to be cut up and it wasn't worth it.

Glad someone looks along the same lines i do and seen the flaws as well before saying its a bargain with an RB fitted.

It looks like they have built the chassis and tried to make an engine fit instead of building the chassis to suit the engine.

Yea I'm out of the S13 as well,,,he's sending me pics,,,but just the seat cut outs turn me off,,,Oh well I'll keep looking,,,no way am I building from scratch.

I don't have your access to plasma cutters and the like at the moment young Brad,,,but it will happen.

I'm after another Sporty but after the Capri it has to be a Nissan with Nissan power.

At least now the Sports Sedan guy's have a half desent web site to interact.

Neil.

Neil what sort of sports sedan are you after?

Im building 2 sports sedans at the moment, one car has the engine completely off to one side of the car the other has the engine mooved over 100mm

btw its profi from the sports sedan forum...

Edited by Riverside Racing Parts

From my measurements I should get away with moving the inline 6 across about 200-240mm so I shouldnt have any problems. The inlet manifold of the RB is the killer but something interesting has been designed for that.

Not sure how far back to go yet, Was contemplating leaving the front two cylinders in the engine bay which is well behind the front axle.

I did think it was you Liam.

We started building ours and had to pull the engines forward, they were going to end up too rear heavy.

one of our cars has an sr and the front of the engine is level with the firewall/base of windscreen...

if you want some pics pm me your email address..

Edited by Riverside Racing Parts

That was my thought with the weight issue. Sounds like Im on the right track leaving two cylinders poking out the front then.

Obviously it will be weighted before final mounting.

The idea of just pulling the engine forward is so good! None of this worrying about front drive shaft angles and rubbish I've had before.

Neil what sort of sports sedan are you after?

My wish list is:-

Aussie spec Gazelle coupe

R33 GTS-T,,,no you lot I am not cutting up the wifey's car!!!.

S13/S14

OR

Really left field a

Morris Marina coupe with RB30 power,,,when I was a kid my dad took me to Warrick Farm and one of these was running a V8 chev,,,I fell in love with it. I have a pic somewhere taken with my instermatic poloriod camera. Shit I'm an old bastard.

Oh while waiting for the train home I'll never forget my 1st view of this spunk in a mini-skirt,,,my dad said I shouldn't look but he was and so was every other bloody male,,,great day indeed.

Neil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Any number of different ways. Have the coils draw sufficient current to provide contact wetting. Use different contacts in the switch, either by material or design, better suited to the low current drawn by a relay coil. Etc.
    • Hmm, how does the R34 manage to have headlight relays then without getting excessive carbon buildup on the headlight switch contacts?
    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
×
×
  • Create New...