Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi As some of you will be aware from my last post im building a R30 FJ20 turbo Coupe race car

is there a rule of thumb with the setup of these for track use ie soft rear hard front etc or is it completely driver related ie what i prefer?

i mean does anyone no what kind of stiffness settings they used in the ATCC? we are in the process of doing the suspension at present and i guess im looking for a direction tho head in so im buying the parts to make the right effect if that makes sence?

Also what bluebird is it that the cross members, lower control arms and rack and pinon steering (non power assit) that will bolt strait into an R30? and can i still put S13 hubs etc on the bluebird lower control arms?

Cheers in advance

Marc

also if any one has an FJ20 engine mounts could you PM me?

Edited by FJ20DR30
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273510-race-suspension-setup/
Share on other sites

I'd be keen to know the answer to your question too

I'm in the process of building my car for classic rallies.

So far I've installed koni shockies to get it licensed and have selby front and rear swaybars to fit.

Not sure what springs to fit plus need to get adjustible camber tops

I assume you're after the factory 'filled' mounts?

If so, I suggest you upgrade to RB mounts - all that's required is an adapter plate. I changed mine over with a scissor jack & removal of the strut brace only.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gosh these Rb pulleys/alternator or whatever is causing the problem is absolute rubbish lol. Haven't even done that many km on it.
    • Yeah man, will only progress further hopefully. The bonnet is coming off to get sprayed very soon
    • Once the belt slips it can very easily cause a cascade that encourages more belt slip. Check the pulleys carefully and see if the grooves have cupped. If it has it's time to replace the pulleys. If the rubber has glazed you also need to replace it. Shouldn't be shiny. From the factory there's a lot of exposed fibers(?) on a v-belt that will go away as it's broken in but some should still remain visible without sticking out significantly like a new belt. I went through this on my dad's Camry recently. It would keep slipping even after setting the tension higher, only solution was a new belt.
    • Belt polished and/or pulley(s) glazed. Rub pulleys with sandpaper, replace belt.
    • I've also got a quick jack. I would never get under my car again without using it.  While it might be quicker to use a jack and stands, it is such a quality of life improvement that I wouldn't have it any other way now.  How much slower the quick jack is to setup will be based on your circumstances. Can you leave the jack rails on each side of the garage? Can you leave the hydraulic lines attached? etc.  If you can drive the car into the garage and simply push the jacking rail thingos under the car into place, it is super quick to setup and use. But if you have to pull the pump unit out of storage, attach the hydraulic lines, wheel out the lifting rail thingos.... yeah takes a bit of time. Having said that, I would still prefer that to using a jack and stands lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...