Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Up for sale is my pride and joy. I have had this car for over 2 years and it's time to move on. I have put my blood and sweat into this, and spent over $30k on ithappy.gif

It was an NA Soarer, before the conversion. Since then the following mods have been added since I acquired the car in January 2007

2JZ-GTE Engine

Front Mount Intercooler from Just Jap (brand unknown)

3 inch exhaust which goes into 2*2.5 all the way from the dump pipes backwards (dump pipe not replaced)

K & N pod filter

Body Kit

Tinted Windows

Turbo Timer

Electric Fan with a special controller which you can control to decide what temperature the fan comes on at

4 Gauges (Oil, Boost, Volt and Fuel)

Leather Seats (Group Buy)

New Pioneer Head Unit

HID Head Lights 6000k

18 Inch Lenso Wheels (18*8 Front and 18*9.5 at Back)

These are a couple of the changes it has gone through, just ask if you want to know more.

I also just recently did the 100k service with Paden from Unique Automotive. The service included;

Timing belt

Ignition Coil Plugs

Coolant Flush

Drive Belt

Breather Hoses

Coil Packs

Harmonic Balancer

Timing Belt Tensioner

Water Pump

Fan Clutch

Crank Seal and Cam Seals

Oil and Filter

Fuel Cut Defender

At the moment it is doing around 16psi. I have never boosted this car, and don't intend to. I have been able to reach 16psi because of the FCD. I have also never dynoed this car, because I have always looked after this car with the upmost respect.

It has always being serviced every 5000km since I got the car when it had only done 76,000kms.

I will let the car go for $16,000 without the wheels and $17,000 with the wheels.

post-63549-1244292292_thumb.jpg

post-63549-1244292372_thumb.jpg

post-63549-1244292777_thumb.jpg

post-63549-1244292830_thumb.jpg

post-63549-1244292860_thumb.jpg

post-63549-1244293012_thumb.jpg

post-63549-1244293041_thumb.jpg

post-63549-1244293066_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273547-soarer-with-a-2jz-gte-engine/
Share on other sites

Cheers guys.

I don't think it's a 10 second car, because I have never taken it to the strip. Like I said, i haven't even dynoed this because I didn't want to push it too hard, more so like a bit of a project for me. Sounds wierd I know!

I did the engine conversion about a year ago on this :D

PRICE DROP. $16000 with the wheels. I will also put in my full sound system which is already installed in the car. It was installed by Lifestyle Car Audio 8 months ago roughly, and cost me around $4000. The system included:

2 * Rockford Fosgate 12 inch P2's

1 * Rockford Fosgate 4 Channel (T400-4)

1 * Rockford Fosgate Mono (T1500-1bd)

6 inch Rockford Fosgate Splits

4 Inch Rockford Fosgate Speakers

All the wiring is done in Rockford Fosgate Wiring. The car is also sound deadened with dynomat.

I would really like to see this car ago, because I want a new car

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean I can be OCD'y but this is really over the top. At that point why not just run a full wideband fuel controller? Especially if you run 3 widebands. The system works pretty well, which is trimming low load stuff to be within a few percent of the base map. Pre-engine _change_ the base map was only 1-2% off, depending on ambient temp, elevation, etc. Under load the LS is really very straightforward to tune, enough that a wideband closed loop would be overkill. If I really cared (and I hope I don't) I can always just go back to the MAF system the car actually came with. Which does all those nice calculations for me (temp, altitude, etc), now that you can buy 102mm MAF's that do not cause restrictions.
    • Good afternoon Team , just a quick update on performance mods  Current Mods list (Installed) HKS - Power Editor (Came with the car) looks to be some kind of boost controller RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Cat Back  RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Front Pipe AMS  - INFINITI Q50/Q60 RED ALPHA COLD AIR INTAKE KIT AMS  - Performance Heat Exchanger Intercooler Not Yet AMS Alpha Performance Full Race Down Pipes  - to be installed in May 
    • I'd be installing 2x widebands and using the NB simulation outputs to the ECU.
    • Nah, it's different across different engines and as the years went on. R32 era RB20, and hence also RB26, the TPS SWITCH is the idle command. The variable resistor is only for the TCU, as you say. On R33 era RB25 and onwards (but probably not RB26, as they still used the same basic ECU from the R32 era), the idle command is a voltage output of close to 0.45V from the variable resistor.
    • It's actually one of the worst bits of Nissan nomenclature (also compounded by wiring diagrams when the TCU is incorporated in ECU, or, ECU has a passthru to a standalone TCU).... the gripe ~ they call it the TPS, but with an A/T it's actually a combined unit ...TPS (throttle position switch) + TPS (throttle position sensor).... ..by the looks of it (and considering car is A/T) you have this unit... https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/2262002u11 The connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit, is the TPS (throttle position sensor) ...only the TCU reads this. The connector on the unit body, is the TPS (throttle position switch) ...ECU reads this. It has 3 possible values -- throttle closed (idle control contact), open (both contacts open, ECU controls engine...'run' mode), and WOT (full throttle contact closed, ECU changes mapping). When the throttle is closed (idle control contact), this activates what the patent describes as the 'anti stall system' ~ this has the ECU keep the engine at idling speed, regardless of additional load/variances (alternator load mostly, along with engine temp), and drives the IACV solenoid with PWM signal to adjust the idle air admittance to do this. This is actually a specific ECCS software mode, that only gets utilized when the idle control contact is closed. When you rotate the TPS unit as shown, you're opening the idle control contact, which puts ECCS into 'run' mode (no idle control), which obviously is a non-sequitur without the engine started/running ; if the buzzing is coming from the IACV solenoid, then likely ECCS is freaking out, and trying to raise engine rpm 'any way it can'...so it's likely pulling the valve wide open....this is prolly what's going on there. The signal from the connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit (for the TCU), should be around 0.4volts with the throttle closed (idle position) ~ although this does effect low throttle shift points if set wrong, the primary purpose here is to tell TCU engine is at idle (no throttle demand), and in response lower the A/T line pressure ... this is often described as how much 'creep' you get with shifter in D at idle. The way the TPS unit is setup (physically), ensures the idle control contact closes with a high margin on the TPSensor signal wire, so you can rotate the unit on the adjustment slots, to achieve 0.4v whilst knowing the idle control contact is definitely closed. The IACV solenoid is powered by battery voltage via a fuse, and ground switched (PWM) by the ECU. When I check them, I typically remove the harness plug, feed the solenoid battery voltage and switch it to ground via a 5watt bulb test probe ; thing should click wide open, and idle rpm should increase... ...that said though, if it starts & idles with the TPS unit disconnected, and it still stalls when it gets up to operating temperature, it won't be the IACV because it's unused, which would infer something else is winking out...  
  • Create New...