Jump to content
SAU Community

How To Take R34 Headlights Apart ?

Wacky Dee
 Share

Recommended Posts

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
Posted

Would like to polish my R34 (GTT) headlights with the Glassylite kit and also install a LED strip on the inside ... I read somewhere the only way to take the clear plastic cover is to "bake" the entire headlight in the oven so the plastic lets go ...

Doesn't sound like something I really want to do ... has anyone else done it with an R34 here? How do you glue the clear plastic back on ? Any tips appreciated, Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273569-how-to-take-r34-headlights-apart/
Share on other sites
wisey18 Rising Star

wisey18

Posted
Posted

Yeh, you bake them in an oven. Not sure on the temps or amount of time you have them in for.

You do the same to put the headlights back together. Get the glue hot then just stick them together and wait for it to dry.

Silver_GT Collaborator

Silver_GT

Posted
Posted

going to do mine one of these days...

i did it to my pulsar ones, to paint the lens surround black, but they had glass lenses, id assume the same method however.

oven on about 80-90 degrees, pop em in on a tray with baking paper on there, after 2-3 mins pull em out, see if theyre hot (ALMOST too hot to hang on to) if not giv em another minute and keep checking, then you want to GENTLY pry the lense off. just do it a little at a time, if its starting the get difficult, pop them back in the oven.

its best to take your time with this, you dont wanna crack your lense from pulling too hard!

mini disclaimer: i take no responsibility for any damage that occurs from doing this, im not an expert

chrisR34GTT Community Regular

chrisR34GTT

Posted
Posted

Gave this a half hearted effort last night and wasn't sure where to start prying the lens off from.. and should the seal be sticky or just gummy? this sucks I have moisture on the inside of the lens and it looks shiat with the headlights on :bunny: help me....

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted
Gave this a half hearted effort last night and wasn't sure where to start prying the lens off from.. and should the seal be sticky or just gummy? this sucks I have moisture on the inside of the lens and it looks shiat with the headlights on :bunny: help me....

You've brought up a good point!

After separating parts of your headlights, you'll need to re-seal them again UNDER LOW HUMIDITY CONDITIONS or you'll end up with moisture on the inside. But if you have a type of lens that is not sealed from outside conditions, you can store the lens in a sealed plastic bag WITH RICE GRAINS OR SILICA GEL PACKS (obtained from medicine bottles) until the moisture disappears.

Rice grains and silica gel act as dessicants (to absorb surrounding water).

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
  • Author
Posted

can anyone recommend some type of sealant to use to run along the edges after putting the lense back on? Something like sikaflex automotive ..would that be a bad idea? Just to ensure a good seal ..

cosmic starz Collaborator

cosmic starz

Posted
Posted
<br />can anyone recommend some type of sealant to use to run along the edges after putting the lense back on? Something like sikaflex

automotive ..would that be a bad idea? Just to ensure a good seal ..<br />

<br /><br /><br />

----------------------------------------------------------

You can buy mastic in a tube for a few dollars (any auto supplier should stock it) - a small tube should be plenty- its the stuff that was used to seal windscreens before the latest glue-on type windscreens were introduced - it is a very good sealer does not age harden and easy to apply - but maybe someone else can suggest other options

Re a quick short-term fix for getting the moisture out of the h/l when its in situ on car all you need do is take out off the outer circular plastic seal, then the bulb holder and the insdie of the h/l is now exposed and you can use compressed air or any thing similar to blow away any moisture- until you are ready to do the long-term fix.

chrisR34GTT Community Regular

chrisR34GTT

Posted
Posted
we do them all the time here at work with motorbike headlamps.....you can just put it in front of a heater or use a heatgun in one section first,then when it starts to open up just follow the opening...its easy

Location and how much??

Seriously this is causing me some heartache... I have discovered that it is not only moisture on the inside but also oxidation similiar to that found on the outside of the lens, cause: the two housing brackets on top of the h/l cracked off exposing the internal of the h/l.. I can't really afford a new factory xenon either >_<

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Trilbyte
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By Trilbyte · Posted

      No intention of driving the car the way it's set up now, just wanting to make sure I haven't made any mistakes along the way so that the tune can go smoothly, I don't want to waste anyone's time with stupid issues. And of course I intend to get it towed to the dyno in a completed state 😅 I have the base fuel pressure with the vacuum disconnected set at about 40psi, which I believe is at least relatively close to stock fuel pressure, maybe I'll have a fiddle with the reg and see what happens. For all I know I could be wasting my time with this and I should just plumb it in and see what the tuner reckons. I just find it a bit strange that it seems to be under so much load just free revving, but maybe that's just a result of the turbo slowing down the exhaust gasses and making a restriction in the flow, with no boost to compensate.
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      The boy just hit up google translate and it worked a treat, he said step one was "please urinate with precision and elegance", he then sent me the correct translation  I get some new loctite for the small fixtures tomorrow and get some "dort" going after that 🤣
    • Kinkstaah
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Right, so is the fuel pressure the same as it was previously? If not, well, it's not going to work well. I can understand the theory I assume you are going for, which is: "Run it N/A, and if I have the original AFM, and same amount of fuel and intake air as previously, the fact there's a turbo in my exhaust should still make it run" Which it... might? Provided you don't actually change how much air or fuel is going into the car.. or getting out. But if you have changed that, all bets are off. What is the purpose to even have the car run this way? To get it to a tuner? And if the goal is to limp it to a tuner, you're still going to what - plumb up a whole intercooler system and new intake in the parking lot out front before your tune......?
    • Trilbyte
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By Trilbyte · Posted

      Haha yea it's a bit of a weird setup at the moment, just wanted to make sure I sorted out any headaches before dyno day. At the moment I've changed the exhaust manifold, turbo and downpipe, 460lph fuel pump and rising rate reg as well as the previously mentioned headstuds and gasket. The nistune was already mapped for the car as it was and drove around for a few months no worries. The plan is to run flex fuel hence the big pump, which I've wired direct to the battery through a relay to avoid voltage issues.
    • Kinkstaah
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Um. Was the ECU the same as the one previously there? I know R33's needed R32 GTST ECU's or other tomfoolery to run Nistune. This is such a wild setup. Most people would plumb in the turbo then not drive the car (i.e tow it to a tuner). What's actually changed since it last ran?
×
×
  • Create New...