Jump to content
SAU Community

Ecutalk


Recommended Posts

well if u want to go in the GB i can do a full refund (paypal refunds fees also), might take 3-5 days to go back on CC, and u can get it later in group buy (probably start next month i imagine), or i can continue with it as normal and send it out by monday

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey all, just thought id add my bit;

I bought an Ecutalk cable of ebay for$60 and bought an adapter cable (also of ebay) to convert it to usb for $5, the converter cable was 1,5 meters long so when connected, the laptop can sit comfortably on the passenger seat. For me it was cheaper and I got a longer length than buying the Usb version cable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if u buy a serial ecutalk cable on ebay, before u pay send a message, say u want a usb/serial and one can be sent for extra $5 added to invoice. its the 'a111 usb serial' as mentioned in item description, 3foot long roughly.

the only issue with usb/serial converters is some of them dont work reliably (and FTDI based ones, which is the chip used in the usb cable, are expensive).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

is impul a daughterboard (still using stock ecu)?

as you paid with echeque itll take a few days to clear

http://www.filedump.net/cameronbnr/For_Sale/impulecu.jpg

-Overview-

- Better air fuel ratios

- Ups the boost a little

- Takes out speed cut

- Increases rev limit to 9000rpm

- Tweaked fuel maps so you can run more boost safely

- Plugs straight in, no other modifications required

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just read this.

Impul is just rechipped Nissan ECU even with Nissan part number for the tune...

Read out the image using EPROM programmer or consult and then that can be modified. As mentioned above either Dr Drift or a tuner with Nistune can do this for you... and use that as a base tune to work from

Those chips are soldered in so you will still need to get ECU resocketed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yep, assuming the consult code is still intact (in theory its possible to modify a rom to stop consult working, e.g. to protect someone from downloading your rom). fortunately i havent heard of any daughterboards/remaps etc losing consult capabilities (if anything only rom reading support, but even then most commerical tunes i dont remember hearing they disabled rom read).

so should be all good

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I reckon I might get a V2 display & permanently mount it in the car.

:P

***edit***

Just bought one...

I picked up my new display unit from the post office today, plugged it in to the RSFV, configured the engine parameters for the trip meter and hey presto, I can now see how much fuel I'm burning :)

And as an aside, it shows all the ECU data just fine :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • What makes you say CD009 boxes are not as strong as you would think? I've always been told the last revision (CD00A) is good for 1000whp and I have no issue's believing it when comparing one side by side with an RB25 box. Makes them look tiny. 
    • I picked up an open Center with shafts. I was told the Open shafts will fit a mechanical LSD and looking at them. I think they will work. Will update 
    • The manual says a lot about the different ratios requiring different shafts. all the Centers are the same but depending on the ratio, this determines the shafts because different ratios need the center to be offset more or less or right to left.
    • those 2 sets of shafts will not interchange and if you’re lucky you haven’t damaged anything with all your pressing and bashing you said you’ve done 
    • Freshly built stroked RB25/28. Motor runs great but consumes a lot more oil then It should. This summer with the heat I was consuming roughly a quart per 1800-2000kms. Now with the cold weather coming in, I'm consuming a quart per 1000kms which is no bueno. I had originally chalked this out to break in taking a little longer then it should, but I'm now around 4000km's on this engine. I think it's fair to say something isn't quite right. Here's the kicker, can't find what's causing it. I've also spoken to my engine builder and Precision Turbo and can't figure it out. Here's my train of thought on possible causes and what I've done.  Precision Turbo - I originally started thinking my oil pressure might be a tad too high for my 6466 Gen2. I took the center cartridge out, and while yes there's signs of oil on the turbine heatshield, it's very moderate. There's also very minor in/out play that concerns me. I sent pictures and videos to precision and they said the residue and in/out play is minimal and they doubt this is the issue. For piece of mind, I went ahead and installed a Turbosmart OPR V2 to bring oil pressure down. Made no difference. Precision is willing to take it in on RMA for an inspection and I'll probably take them up on that offer for peace of mind. BTW. Is it just me or does the turbines inducer's look clipped and not even between each other? I just noticed this now while posting and looking at the picture zoomed in. Might just be the picture...  Rings - Hot compression test and leak down test look good. Compression is 160 +-2psi across the board. I leak down at 16% on cyl 1,2,3,5,6 and 18% on cyl4. Keep in mind I have a snap on leak down tester and they read high (I.E, 15% on my wifes 2018 Sentra with 70000kms). Sparkplugs show minimal oil (Only #4 seems to have a tad). At a quart per 1000km's though, I would be expecting them to be wet. Here's the kicker, I run WMI. I'm thinking what if my compression rings are great, but I have an oil control ring issue on cyl4 and my WMI is steam cleaning the pistons and sparkplugs? I can still see the "Spool" logo on top of my CP pistons. The only time I see smoke out of the exhaust is in the high rpm/load range. So far, this is my main culprit. I'll probably turn off my WMI and go out with the car at spring pressure tomorrow and repull the plugs. Other thing that's strange though is that I have never seen any oil in my catch can. Thing is still dry after 4000kms. Cyl1 - Left, Cyl6 - Right. Valve seals - They're new and I would expect oil consumption on idle, first cold start or during decel. None of which is happening.  Crankcase pressure - I have 2x 10an valve cover lines to a vented catch can. Head drain and opened up internal oil drain paths. I also don't run E85. I've never seen any oil in my catch can. Doubtful this is causing any issues.  Rear main seal - I have no visible leaks, but figured maybe it was my rear main seal. After now having added 2-3 quarts, I would expect oil to leak out the bottom drain channel and/or my clutch to be slipping.  Let me know your thoughts. With winter coming and taking the car off the road until spring, I'm fine with pulling the motor apart but I would hate to take it all apart and the turbo was the issue in the end.   
×
×
  • Create New...