Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Im trying to source a cylinder head for the new engine I am building for my R34 GTR. I want to kee my current engine intact as a spare and build an entirely new engine and just do a swap when its ready.

So, apart from some porting, what exactly is the diferences between an R34 and R33/R32 RB26 head?

I believe the R34 exhaust camshaft is slightly diferent so it can drive the R34 CAS sensor.

I want to keep all R34 sensor compatability so I can run an FC on the new engine, so to do this can I buy an R32/R33 head and then just put a set of R34 cams in it?

Cheers,

Ian

Well problem solved, I dont need to worry about R32/R33 heads now.

I'll be able to confirm the CAS drive diferences for sure in a week or so. Just sourced a low K R34 head from a vspec 2.

Cheers,

Ian

Edited by GTRNUR

dont know if the cam profiles are different, but guess if your building a new engine for it then you might go aftermarket cams, in that case the only difference is the drive, so just make sure you order sticks for an r34 gtr so the drive is the same, the bare head is the same

the bare heads are all the same. no difference in porting or anything else. the only difference is in ancillaries. and of course the 34 cam drive for the CAS is different. cam profile is a little different too, but lift is the same across them all.

  • 5 years later...

Just to dig up and old thread....

Im looking at going the 26/30 route for my gtst and just starting to put parts aside....

Long story short, any of the 32, 33 or 34 gtr heads will be as good as each other??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just one more post to show the final result and the original "janky" solution for a laugh. Everything feels really tight and no wobbling at all, very pleased 🙂
    • After drying a few days, time to put her back together 
    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
×
×
  • Create New...