Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Can a bosch 044 fuel pump directly replace the stock intank fuel pump (in an R34 GT-R) or are there other fittings/modifications that need to be done to the 044 in order to successfully mount them in the fuel tank?

Cheers,

Edited by xanavinismo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273877-bosch-044-fuel-pump/
Share on other sites

Just remember if you replace the intank fuel hoses use Flouroelastomer outer hose. Regular efi will go to shit.

I am running an 044 intank in my 32 gtr, been great so far. You may also find these fittings usefull it's what I used:

Here

It allows you to come out at 90 from the pump outlet so you don't foul against the side of the tank. Has a pick-up as well. I looked everywhere for those fittings even Enzed couldn't do it, thread pitch on the 044's is not the norm which makes it hard.

Edited by James_03

Thanks a bunch for all of your replies guys. Although having read whats actually involved, I might end up getting a Nismo fuel pump instead because to my understanding, they are a direct replacement for the factory intank fuel pump and no modifying is required on R34 GT-R's?

Cheers,

Edited by xanavinismo

ive got one in my 34.....there is no cradle on the 34.....its got a big rubber sleeve and clamp that holds the pump...its not quite large enough for the 44 pump....just use a hose clamp to hold it to the point where the original clamp goes....

you will also need a fitting to go in the intake to convert the pump to a barb so you can use the original hose and pick up filter...and one on the outlet to convert to barb....it works out it just runs straight in line as the original pump does....id say its the most simple gtr's to fit this pump to

Sorry to digress....is anyone having any surging issues with the intank 044 on track (circuit) days when cornering? If so what was your fuel level when this was occuring? I guess what I'm getting at - is it necessary to go to a surge tank setup for a bit of (safe) fun on the circuit?

Sorry to digress....is anyone having any surging issues with the intank 044 on track (circuit) days when cornering? If so what was your fuel level when this was occuring? I guess what I'm getting at - is it necessary to go to a surge tank setup for a bit of (safe) fun on the circuit?

It sounds like you are enjoying some of the oh so common overheating and cavitating problems that 044's do. A fuel cooler is meant to help quite dramatically, however it hasnt worked in my application.

It sounds like you are enjoying some of the oh so common overheating and cavitating problems that 044's do. A fuel cooler is meant to help quite dramatically, however it hasnt worked in my application.

It's something that I'm contemplating but just curious as to the pro's and con's of in-tank vs external vs external with surge tank.

If you mount in-tank do any problems exist as this would be the neatest way......but was wondering whether a dedicated surge tank was required for the odd treck to the circuit where G forces would be higher?

I have an s15 and can run my fuel down until the fuel light comes on without any fuel pickup issues at the circuit. Was thinking of upgrading my fuel pump (currently Nismo) to an 044 when I make the switch to E85. But was curious as to the best way to go.

I've nearly rear ended a few VR and VS Commodores at the circuit where they have fuel surge issues mid corner resulting in temporary engine shut down at the most inconvenient of places.

Here's a few setups I came accross on another forum:

http://www.freshalloy.com/forums/showthrea...fuel+pump+setup

Edited by juggernaut1
if you already have the nismo keep that, it flows the same if not more than a 044 assuming you aren't runny silly rail pressures.

I thought the Nismo was 4.1 litres/min or 246 litres/hour.................. vs the 044 at 300 litres/hour....no?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • careful when running the car after a boil over. Ive heard you can lose enough coolant that it won't show the right temps because of too much air in the system (or something like that). Make sure the levels are good before trying again.  Maybe a mobile mechanic can come have a look with their scan tool ?
    • OK, just for some extra clarity - there is more than one option at Frenchy's. 1. You can buy the whole kit - with or without the actual compressor. The whole kit includes mounts, hoses, condensor, etc. That's either ~$2200 or ~$2800. No surgery required with this option. 2. You can buy just the bracket (~$600), or the bracket with the compressor (~$1200). Either of this or the above option "without the compressor" is if you already have an Echo comp or you are able to source one locally. Whatever the case, in this option, you will need surgery done on your hoses to adapt to the new compressor. When I said "the Frenchy's kit", I meant the whole kit in option 1. It is obviously somewhat more $$ than a $1500 OEM compressor. But if I had to spend $1500 on an OEM compressor, I would certainly consider spending double that to renew and significantly update everything forward of the firewall. Another option is to rebuild your original compressor. My R34 comp is currently dead and I will be most likely doing that to it if the spare one in the shed is also leaky.
    • I’m thinking that’s the route I’ll  go, thanks for the input!
    • Hey all, my 2004 Nissan Skyline 350GT overheated the other day with coolant boiling and leaking out of the coolant reservoir when I was parking. So today, I started it up again just to see if it was a thermostat/head gasket issue. After about 20 mins of running, temps were normal again, no coolant was leaking out and the upper reservoir hose was warm but my engine suddenly cut off. I checked the oil dipstick and cap when it was running and there was no white foamy residue and the exhaust did not have white smoke. I tried starting up the car again but it would only crank, similar to when I had a camshaft sensor issue just that now there’s no check engine light on the dash. Any ideas? Unfortunately I don’t have an OBD2 that can read the Nissan's programme.
    • Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
×
×
  • Create New...