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you need to run a tiny bit of neg camber (near flat) overall so they are flat on WOT.

problem is that when you drop a skyline the negative camber increases a lot so you need to run positive camber to compensate for the excess negative

did that make sense? lol

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Just checked the wheel worx website there's some new rims Tarmac ts01 17x10" +35 according to the offset calc I will need 14mm more clearance for the rears, but my cars not lowered coz I don't want just springs. What do you reckon fit or not? Might stick out enough to be illegal

Edited by DaGr81
Just checked the wheel worx website there's some new rims Tarmac ts01 17x10" +35 according to the offset calc I will need 14mm more clearance for the rears, but my cars not lowered coz I don't want just springs. What do you reckon fit or not? Might stick out enough to be illegal

they will be 1mm further out than the ones in my photo...

shouldn't you be running positive camber in the rear to aid traction as I said before when the car squats you get 0 camber therefore more contact between tyre and road, but I guess it also depends how much positive camber you can run

No you shouldn't be running positive camber for a street car.

Yes, it is suitable for a straight line car. However, when going around corners, the vehicle actually needs some negative camber.

For example, when turning right, the outside of your left wheels will be the ones taking most of the wieght of the car, if you have positive camber, it will reduce the amount of tyre surface on the road.

You need SOME negative camber to compensate when turning in order for more tyre to touch the road surface.

Sorry if I explained it bad, maybe someone else can do a better job.

Ultimately, the choice is yours. If you put in positive camber at the rear wheels, you're going to be oversteering if you're giving it around corners and stuff.

However, in the straight line, it will be better.

No you shouldn't be running positive camber for a street car.

Yes, it is suitable for a straight line car. However, when going around corners, the vehicle actually needs some negative camber.

For example, when turning right, the outside of your left wheels will be the ones taking most of the wieght of the car, if you have positive camber, it will reduce the amount of tyre surface on the road.

You need SOME negative camber to compensate when turning in order for more tyre to touch the road surface.

Sorry if I explained it bad, maybe someone else can do a better job.

Ultimately, the choice is yours. If you put in positive camber at the rear wheels, you're going to be oversteering if you're giving it around corners and stuff.

However, in the straight line, it will be better.

but when you lower a skyline the negative camber increases, so you need to dial in positive camber to counter this. you still retain negative camber overall, but less than you would have without adjusting it...

this does not mean your wheels are instantly going to be flat, but if you dont do this you will not be getting traction on a lowered car.

if you want to get your power to the ground on a low skyline then this is a must...

I've decided I'll go drifteks simply because they have a good deal going at the moment and because they aren't expensive I wouldn't mind if it gets banged up a lil - gutters rocks etc. And I think I'll go 17s as well but the only decent 17" sizes are gtr offset 17x9.5 +18 all round, I could always mix and match like 17x8 +34 front and 17x9.5 +18 rear, I don't know how it will look though as the offsets are very far apart. But if I can fit 17x9.5s at the front I will. Q: with some guard work is it worth attempting to fit them? Or should I mix and match ? 17x8 fronts and 17x9.5 rears or even 17x9 fronts and 17x9.5 rears, the rears will need a bit of work obviously but how about the fronts?

for reference i run:

235/40/18's and

5/7kg coilovers

positive camber a few deg, but cant remmeber exactly

car is 10mm lower than in that pic now (320mm centre to guard)

i can just 1 finger up to the second knuckle between the guard and tyre

car also has swaybars and strutbraces front and rear

guards are rolled but not flared - paint did not crack

i do not get any scrubbing to worry about, a tiny bit of black on my finger if i run it around the guards, and only if its been driven hard

the 73 hub should be aight.... from memory mine are 76mm and i had custom hub locators made up, but most people that run professors dont bother...

Look what you wrote above i.e. You run positive camber. I interpreted this exactly the way it's written.

You didn't say you dialed in more positive camber to offset the excessive negative camber, however, overall, you still retain a little bit of negative camber.

not hugely as my coilovers probably wont do so well without them...

prolly a 10mm is under i'd say, i'd go lower cause i'm very fashionable, but its just not practical (well neither is the height i already run, but its easily livable)

I've decided I'll go drifteks simply because they have a good deal going at the moment and because they aren't expensive I wouldn't mind if it gets banged up a lil - gutters rocks etc. And I think I'll go 17s as well but the only decent 17" sizes are gtr offset 17x9.5 +18 all round, I could always mix and match like 17x8 +34 front and 17x9.5 +18 rear, I don't know how it will look though as the offsets are very far apart. But if I can fit 17x9.5s at the front I will. Q: with some guard work is it worth attempting to fit them? Or should I mix and match ? 17x8 fronts and 17x9.5 rears or even 17x9 fronts and 17x9.5 rears, the rears will need a bit of work obviously but how about the fronts?

the 9.5 + 18's do fit on the front guards of a 33but are REAL far out...

and the 8" are not far enough....

what is the offset of the 17x9" ?

Wait a second just thinking about it, shouldn't the 17x9 +34 front and 17x9.5 +18 rears fit without a problem, car hasn't been lowered at all, according to the offset calc it will stick out only 13mm more at the front and 16mm more at the rear, so only the rears may need a lip/roll and when the car gets coilovers and a better ride height then the fronts will need a lip/roll.

Any thoughts? Corrections? Suggestions?

Thanks for all the help dude

Edited by DaGr81

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