Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi y'all

My Stagea developed a auto trans problem today during my lunch break.

When I start up the car (or turn ignition on) the A/T light flashes 16 times. I'm now driving the car stuck in 3rd gear all the time (limp mode?). Going tiptronic and changing manually does nothing. Anyone able to identify what is wrong ... not guess what is wrong?

I had MV Automatics in Blackwood service the box and put in a shift kit some 10,000kms ago and the whole car is only 61,000kms old. Never had any problems ... been flawless.

A loose wire perhaps? I'll give MV Auto a call when I have a moment. But any help in the meantime would be great. Especially from those who had the problem before and found a solution that worked.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273910-uh-oh-stag-trans-problem/
Share on other sites

Hi Roo,

Would same something rude like pull the mesh and see if it goes away but jokes aside Im 99% sure this is what adams car did when one of his G box solenoids shat itself on his old s2 and went into limp mode.

Sit tight for 5 and ill have a hunt and try and contact him aswell.

Any idea of the cost for Adam to fix?

I'd like not to believe its the solenoids. Everything I read, the box plays up a bit now and again before the solenoids fail. But my box has never played up. This happened out of the blue ... no warning. Is why I'm thinking, maybe I have a trans leak and fluid is low (one can only hope). Or a loose connector/wire.

Roo,

Run the Auto Trans diagnostic found here :

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/post-a140164-

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/post-a140165-

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/post-a140166-

Im guessing its a shift solinoid thats shagged itself.

This could be some useful reading.

Adams had no signs of it playing up then it blew the shift solinoid B out of the blue. Car would only drive in 2 and 3.

He was given a price to fix it and service as pan has to be pulled ect and the option of a shift kit. He went down the shift kit path and the fix including shift kit was around 500/600.

Mike at MV will have it sussed very quickly as he told adam the solinoids that are shagged are very easy to spot.

Any idea of the cost for Adam to fix?

I'd like not to believe its the solenoids. Everything I read, the box plays up a bit now and again before the solenoids fail. But my box has never played up. This happened out of the blue ... no warning. Is why I'm thinking, maybe I have a trans leak and fluid is low (one can only hope). Or a loose connector/wire.

fluid low ? shift kit installed ? = a shit load of heat going through the box.

stress from the shift kit, as well as low liquid. top it up see how it goes.

same thing happened to me, solenoids were getting to hot and were just letting you know there is a cooling problem in the box.

Get the leak fixed asap, might just be a gasket (service is $130)

i was quoted $560 for new Solenoids, but also got quoted $1800 for Stage 2 rebuild including aftermarket solenoids..... guess which one i chose :(

good luck man

P.S if MV only opened it up 10,000 ago, i'd be asking them to check out the leak. maybe gasket wasn't on right ? or didn't seal good

doesn't really sound like what you've described though

No. I agree. I have 3rd only (not even 2nd) ... gearbox is young and I had a service/shift kit done last year.

fluid low ? shift kit installed ? = a shit load of heat going through the box.

street from the shift kit, as well as low liquid. top it up see how it goes.

same thing happened to me, solenoids were getting to hot and were just letting you know there is a cooling problem in the box.

Get the leak fixed asap, might just be a gasket (service is $130)

i was quoted $560 for new Solenoids, but also got quoted $1800 for Stage 2 rebuild including aftermarket solenoids..... guess which one i chose :(

good luck man

P.S if MV only opened it up 10,000 ago, i'd be asking them to check out the leak. maybe gasket wasn't on right ? or didn't seal good

I'll limp the car home tonight (only 20 min drive) and check the fluid level out. I really think thats what it is.

If not, then its off to MVs for a diagnosis.

Get the leak fixed asap, might just be a gasket (service is $130)

Far out 130 for a service is alot cheaper than any prices I've been quoted!

P.S if MV only opened it up 10,000 ago, i'd be asking them to check out the leak. maybe gasket wasn't on right ? or didn't seal good

Adam said when I was on the phone to him they dont touch the solenoids on the Shiftkit service.

Roo if I were you I would check the fluid before you drive home. What time do you finish mate? Im working at Mt Barker and prob have a L or 2 of transmaxZ sitting at home in the shed in burnside if your really stuck....

Just got off the phone to MV Auto (finally got thru) and they couldn't tell me much over the phone ... not even a quote on the replacement solenoids. They want me to get the Stagea to them, but I'm flat out this week. I know more on what I'm going to do, when I get home.

Glad this happened now, not when I was in Kadina over the weekend.

Just spoke to adam again now that he was free (he was with the thread doctor before)....

He says run the Diagnostic I put up. It will tell you whats going on. If the fluid is low and its at to higher temp it will tell you that aswell.

Adam said he ran the diagnostic found out it was shift solinoid b from diagnostic. Called mike; told him what he got from diagnostic and sure enough when they pulled it apart nit was shift solinoid B.

servo might have trans fluid for a top up....

other wise, see TJ's post for my thoughts.

Sounds like the tiptronic boxes are piss weak, if you arent planning on going manual, maybe put the box from your S1 if you are willing to part out the car, and try and set up the tiptronic on it.

Sounds like the tiptronic boxes are piss weak, if you arent planning on going manual, maybe put the box from your S1 if you are willing to part out the car, and try and set up the tiptronic on it.

in stock form i think so, but a full built s2 gearbox is good for a shitload of power, and abuse :bunny:

mine is only Stage 2 with a 500hp rating.

servo might have trans fluid for a top up....

Sounds like the tiptronic boxes are piss weak, if you arent planning on going manual, maybe put the box from your S1 if you are willing to part out the car, and try and set up the tiptronic on it.

Yeah they do carry atelast one brand on dex III ATF.

wouldnt bother with the transmision swap with the s1 just speed up the manny conversion :bunny:

roo, the diagnostic sounds a bit random but once u get it, it will tell u exactly what the go is. my car spent like 2 weeks of the rd coz all these other places couldnt tell what the go it.

mine did the same thing. im pretty sure i had 2nd and 3rd i may have remembered wrong tho...

all i did was drop a little blow off parked... n that was it. what kinda driving was going on b4 it went?

if i were u id run the diagnostic 1st so u can tell him it said it was....X... this way he knows u no ur shit and not gna pay him to do it. they just re wire the solinoide and off u go. i was very happy with MV's. :)

was gonna say, it's a sign ruby :P

Yeah ... shopping for a gtr box now :P

all i did was drop a little blow off parked... n that was it. what kinda driving was going on b4 it went?

if i were u id run the diagnostic 1st so u can tell him it said it was....X... this way he knows u no ur shit and not gna pay him to do it. they just re wire the solinoide and off u go. i was very happy with MV's. :D

I've driven it hard-ish sometimes, but I'm still on 7psi boost until I can tune it (its a time thing, more than a money issue), so its not copping abuse. Leading up to the failure, I was cruising to work in peak traffic. The car is home now for the rest of the week.

Silver stagea is going to a new owner tonight (so no chance of nicking the box) and I'm picking up a new toy too. :)

A quickie:

I'm carrying out my manual conversion earlier than planned, so haven't quite done my homework.

Does a GTR manual box or GTS4 box bolt straight into the Stagea? No mods to tailshaft or mounts?

I'm aware of the other things required, like: drill out plate for shift stick, change over pedal box, need clutch kit, change over center console, change over handbrake etc. But are the boxes the same length and all?

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey @Butters, did you end up getting this clutch in ? I have just ordered to a uniclutch track to go in my getrag 6 speed that’s in my BNR 32     
    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
×
×
  • Create New...