Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All,

I currently have a 3" dump hanging off the end of my xr6t style rear housing however I wish to make it a little bigger :bunny:

XR6T's have seen some really good gains around 300rwkw by stepping up to a 4" bell mouth dump from the usual 3-3.5" split.

So squashing/bashing/bending the 4" 90degree bend.

I figured I'd grab some plate to make a dummy flange, cut the flange in half having two of the flange sides on opposite ends of the pipe, then attempt to squash the pipe in to shape using the press.

The other idea was to grab some plate again except cut an inverted version of the flange (i.e inside of the flange) and then slowly bash the dump in and pull the top out to sit on the outside of my inverted flange. It should then sit nicely inside the proper flange.

Can any one provide any tips? Might have to head down and hire an Oxy I'm thinking.

Edited by SLAPS
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273981-making-a-dump-pipe/
Share on other sites

i like the inverse flange idea, just would need to either cut your new flange hole bigger or the inverse smaller by the material thickness.

you going for stainless or mild steel?

got any pics of the xr6t bellmouth's you refer too?

p67_03.jpg

I had a better pic of it.. The 4" appears to mould in nicely.

As for mild or stainless it depends what is available and which is cheapest. I have no issues with mild.

Pics attached of my current 3" dump. I tend to visualise the wastegate gasses smashing in to the path of the turbine wheel reducing turbine efficiency creating the boost drop issue I've always had regardless of power being made (before cams)

post-58245-1244602946_thumb.jpg

post-58245-1244602961_thumb.jpg

Edited by SLAPS

I dont think you'll be able to mash a 4" pipe to fill that hole.

the crease marks on teh x force one certainly make it look like the collector is welded on som 4" pipe, the rest could be sheet metal folded and formed into the required shape.

edit : prob better to cut the rear off the wastegate merge and extend this back around the Bend further.

  • 1 month later...

Best thing to do would be to go down to your local exhaust shop, and buy some 90degree mandrel bend (or press bend for that matter) sections in mild steel. You can then cut the required shape out of the bend, and weld that in instead. That's what did when I made my custom stainless steel dump pipe for my SR20DET.

Plus you get a nice shallow flow path for the waste gate gases to merge back into the main stream.

post-53216-1248148383_thumb.jpg

post-53216-1248148395_thumb.jpg

This how I've done it in the past. Mind you, front wheel drive applications require more work and thought. Might givce you some ideas. I'd also run a long pipe off the internal wastegate and merge the pipework in smoothly as far down the front pipe as you can. Try to reduce the amount of turbulence and you'll reap the rewards.

dsc00109lw6.jpg

dsc00098qv1.jpg

dsc00029xk1.jpg

dsc00037ia3.jpg

And external gate setup

DSC00350.jpg

DSC00352.jpg

DSC00356.jpg

And the finish result

DSC00386.jpg

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Because all parts that are put into your papers usually are assigned a badging if they did not come with one. So other people can just check that badging to tell if it is the parts your papes outline. But my pipe has NOTHING on it whatsoever. No idea why this even passed as a Mines pipe to begin with. I see this going two ways: -nobody cares and it's a non-issue, but that is unlikely -the pipe will just have to be assigned a bagding, for sake of argument, a Mines logo, and the papers corrected accordingly If it interests you I will post what the actual solution ended up being. All I care about is that it has to sound equal length and nobody can screw me later on because of a pipe being illegal.
    • The fasteners to the pipe are not subject to TÜV I guess, if we really start putting nuts and bolts through technical tests I'm going to hang the people responsible and then myself. Usually on a modern-ish EU normed car, you would just replace the pipe. Because if you start hacking away at it and welding new pieces on the cops will definitely find a reason to tow your car. That is just how it is sadly. On old cars and imports with no clear "standard" stuff like that won't matter too much. Most cops or inspectors probably won't even really know what they are looking at. But there is experts for this stuff even among cops, and some of them know the rules to a T and even have extensive knowledge about many vehicles. For "just a pipe" to be legal it usually is included in a set of parts, like a complete intake kit or a full exhaust. For example my exhaust needs to pass a noise test, meaning they have a standardized test track with a set of instructions and they run the car through there 3x for an average noise value that is 75dB(a) at point x of the test track. If it's above that, fail. For a turbo setup to be put in your papers you have to do dyno runs, emissions testing etc. So quite costly
    • Would this not be the same for the exhaust you've posted up?  If your exhaust volume and emissions are fine, why does the brand of pipe matter? 
    • The issue is more the fact that there is inspectors that deal with japanese cars a lot and they might know what a real Mines pipe looks like. And then they're gonna get antsy and not pass your car. But I'd have to talk to one of them about this, because you know as well as me that it's just a damn pipe and it effectively doesn't do anything. As I need to have my GT2860s and my exhaust setup (and the increase in HP) TÜV'd anyways maybe they can just correct the entry in the papers or assign a badge to the front pipe. I'm no expert either though, will inquire about this.     Thanks for the insight. Not sure if having a custom made pipe is good or not. Will find out in due time I suppose. Would be kind of funny if this was made in Germany though.
    • See this is a really tricky topic as technically the same rules apply to all cars but for cars but there is a difference. If you want to modify a car like the Skyline which never existed here you have a bit more freedom as they do not adhere to EU specs anyway. Any modification you do has to be in dividually checked anyway so as long as one of the inspectors think it's ok and within the TÜV ruleset you can get stuff like a top secret rear diffuser put in your papers. Which frankly would need a shitload of tests and certificates for EU spec cars, like a 2010 BMW M3 for example. But if you DO run these tests and all tests come out ok (safety stuff for the most part) there is no problem running such a part legally. It's just way too expensive to do for a single person on one car. The most touchy parts are emissions related mods, like an exhaust, turbos, air intakes. If it makes noise or alters the carbon emissions it's essentially illegal until you prove it's not. Meaning it doesn't exceed noise limits or have worse carbon emissions. I'd say for hoses if you replace them same same it doesn't matter what material they are or what brand you use. Same for nuts and bolts usually, they won't go and specifically check that your water hoses and some bolts are 100% OEM parts, that is nonsense.
×
×
  • Create New...