Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My 33 has been retired for weekend duties since buying a bike and gets limited usage which is making the battery constantly run flat.

I've a car alarm which i think is a large contributor to this and to combat it i've got a little car charger i plug into the mains to charge her up but this useless if i crash away from home which i found out first hand at the weekend!

Thank god for roll starts & the hill i used!

So anyone got any tips on how to combat this? Unplugging the battery or anything else?

CHEERS!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274021-battery-running-flat/
Share on other sites

How is the alternator? Is it charging correctly? If it is overcharging (crook regulator), it will fry the battery to the point where it basically is incapable of retaining any charge.

And how old is the battery?

It's a year old after my last one died a got a brand new one put in.

Not sure about my alterator how would i check for issues with it?

Since the battery has run completely flat i've only been able to start the cat after a full 24 hour charge up.

check the circuit for a poor earth (leak) or get a battery terminal switch

Battery terminal switch? Now we're talking. Is that a common thing? As in will it be hard for me to track someone down to do it for me?

mine had similar issues. there was nothing wrong with the alternator etc. but when i changed battery the problem immediately went away. just wasnt holding any charge and would die after listening to 5 minutes of music. my new one is exactly the same battery. has lasted me 6 months so far.

upgrade i say - get an optima battery, as well as all the suggestions above

i've put a kill switch in mine for all my equipment. You could easily put one in for the battery itself but then you'd have to reset your head unit and clock every time you jump back in.

don't know if it'll help, but heres some optima and kill switch info on my setup: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Op...ug-t228221.html

upgrade i say - get an optima battery, as well as all the suggestions above

i've put a kill switch in mine for all my equipment. You could easily put one in for the battery itself but then you'd have to reset your head unit and clock every time you jump back in.

don't know if it'll help, but heres some optima and kill switch info on my setup: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Op...ug-t228221.html

Top work cheers!

Battery terminal switch? Now we're talking. Is that a common thing? As in will it be hard for me to track someone down to do it for me?

You can do it yourself, its just replacing a battery terminal. Supercheap have them for about 10$ or so (cant remember exactly what they're called but they allow you to disconnect the battery for working on the car without having to remove terminals)

Take your battery to supercheap they can test the battery condition also for you (they test all stock going out). You'll find its probably ok and just a wiring fault

mine is having pretty much the same problems, changed the alternator and battery, now have a red top optima, during the hot weather it wasnt really a problem, now that its cold i cant keep it charged, i now have to use the old odysey battery that i replaced to jump start the car every morning and when i leave work every night, its pissing me off.

^^^can't stop looking at Brett's Avatar...

oh yeah... back to the thread...

If the battery has gone, it might still have a warranty on it (whilst you still have a receipt). Usually 1-2 yrs Wty

^^^back to the Avatar...

battery going flat after 1 year?? that doesnt sound right mate.. what brand is it?? with batteries they have a pro rata type warranty for 4 years... ive had many a weekend warriors and not had a drama with them going flat...

check your alternator charge rate.. have the car running and put a multimeter across the terminals, if its 14.2v.. happy days... under 13... alternator stuffed

check the levels of your battery, the electrolyte level should be just at the bottom of the plugs.. or atleast, completly covering the cells.. if thats ok...

check for voltage leak... put a multimeter on the terminals with the car off... check the voltage (should be 12v or so) and watch to see if it slowly goes down.. so maybe come back and check it every 10-15 min for a few hours) if its still 12v, then volts are not escaping via something using them..

if everything above is fine... get someone to start the car while you are checking the volts... if its showing 12v at the battery then drops to lower than 5v when trying to start... the battery is farked.. it has a surface charge, which can run your dash lights and everything, but doesnt have the guts to actually crank the engine..

if you said the battery was original and untouched... then id point at the battery straight away... but if its only a year old... im pointing at a gremlin somewhere.

if your car is a monthly warrior... then you can get trickle chargers... which supply a low current and low voltage, just to keep the battery topped up... you can use them 24/7 as they shut off when not needed.

cheers

Linton

im amazed by that avatar aswell... not because she fell into the water... but because of old mates reaction... or lack of... he doesnt even flinch. haha.. models... hes either too stoopid to realise whats happened... or has too little brain capacity to walk in a straight line and be aware of whats going on a round him.

Something I learned last night - my nephew's car stopped on him recently. When we got it home, it managed to fire up, but only had 11.5V at the battery. Immediately suspected pooped alternator.

Anyway, went to fit the replacement alternator last night, noticed the belt seemed a bit loose, and the -ve battery terminal was loose. Tightened them both up - va-voom 13.5V with headlights on.

So, the point of this story - is the fan belt tensioned correctly, and the battery terminals done up tight?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not a problem at all Lithium, I appreciate your help regardless. I've pulled a small part of a log where the target pressure was 28psi and it spiked to 36.4psi. I've only just begun using Data Log Viewer so if I'm sending this in the wrong format let me know.
    • Sorry had a bit of a week and haven't had heaps of time to follow this, so apologies if I've missed something - any chance of showing a log with the rpm, turbo speed, MAP, and wgdc all in one view? Definitely an "interesting" problem, and while it's definitely worth noting that there was a similar issue with the twins I'd not completely put all bets on the root cause being the same thing.  Keep an open mind, follow the data.
    • I built this engine approximately 12 years ago so my own head (brain) is a little grey on the exact hardware in the RB head, however what I recall is. Stock RB25 NEO TURBO Intake Camshaft HKS 260 degree Exhaust Camshaft (R34 GTR) RB25 NEO Turbo Springs  I ported/removed the exhaust stud humps found in the RB25 head so theres less turbulence but it wasn't ported/polished properly, just a hump removal. I've attached two pictures of the before and after to illustrate.     The ECU gets its boost reference from the nipple on the rear of the head on the intake side, behind the fuel rail. The wastegate gets its boost reference from a nipple on the cooler pipe immediately after the comp cover.  Could a decent pressure drop across the intercooler cause the wastegate to be seeing a higher PSI than what the ECU is seeing, and thus it can't control it accurately and quick enough?   We ran a line to the actuator and watched it open and close using an air compressor, while we didn't have a gauge on the line to see when it was cracking open, it was opening smoothly.  I just removed the gate now and even though the documentation says you need to open it in a vice due to preload (which I did), there wasn't any preload on the cap, which is something we noticed straight out of the box as well when new. This silver cap internally is threaded to the actuator rod that runs out the bottom of the straightgate. Not sure how I'm supposed to get this spring out to be frank.. Potentially but everyone else doesn't appear to have to stop at 500kw because of 6boosts design.  I would, but I think I'm getting to that point where if I'm going to do the head and make another 100kw, then I'm going to need a fancy gearbox and quite a few other things and 10k becomes 20k becomes 30k within a few months. I'm not necessarily sold on the idea just yet that the head is restrictive at 4000rpm (and what.. 300kw?) and yet doesn't seem to be restrictive at 7000rpm when it's making 500kw, however I'm obviously not closing the door on that theory.
    • Yeah - Half the problem is I know this sensor actually goes to 150C.. I'm pretty certain it is min of 11C. So still more data required I suppose. It's really quite hard to get the oil temp to 100+ then immediately pull over and take a reading before the temp drops. Annoyingly I suppose the range I really 'want' is likely 80 -> 120C. TBH the ecu can't really *do* anything with it, and the gauge itself is very visible... ...but you know how it is.
    • My EFR 8474 Black, made 800awhp on a roller dyno. at 25-26psi. E85. Shaft speed was around 106,000rpm 1.01 rear. The rear is maxed.  6 boost Turbosmart 60mm gate 3.5inch exhaust  Head is worked to the shithouse. Bain racing. VCam. 272 exhaust. RB28 - RB26 foundation.  You have an intake issue. Start getting proper data and I mean go back to the simple things.  - Pressure test your intake - Block off the Turbo BOV, you don't need it.  - Test pressure before and after your intercooler If your head is pretty stock, that is your issue. Especially if it is NA.  Take it off and spend $10k on it. 
×
×
  • Create New...